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cabinfourus 
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Joined: 03 Jun 2025
Location: Asheville, NC
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 Topic: 1945 G model Carburetor
Posted: 03 Jun 2025 at 11:48am |
First, let me say thank you, for allowing me to be a part of this community. My background is automotive technician. I am a retired Marine and line tech. A friend has a 1945 G Allis and Chalmers tractor with a TSV 13 carburetor on it. He had the engine overhauled a year ago, and it ran great for about an hour. He said it started acting as if it was running out of gas, and has not run correctly since. I removed the carburetor, took it completely apart and cleaned it. I ordered a kit from Amazon to rebuild the carb, and replaced everything in the kit. While tearing down the carb, I noticed a foam type screen on the adjusting screw on the bottom of the carb. The kit didn't have this in it, and I can't find a picture anywhere showing it. I put the carb back together, leaving out the torn screen, and we still have the same problem. I adjusted the air/fuel mixture screw on top to one and half turns out. The bottom adjuster, I set at one turn out. The plugs keep fouling with fuel. I am not sure of the firing order, but the two middle plugs are always covered in fuel and the two outside are not. The tractor tries to run but will not. Puffs of dark gray smoke come from the exhaust when trying to start it. Can someone tell me what the foam type screen is for? The bottom adjuster seems very loose, and it seeps fuel from it. Could this be a timing issue also? Any help is highly appreciated.
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Steve in NJ
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Andover, NJ
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Posted: 10 Jun 2025 at 8:14am |
The TSV Carbs as small as they are have their issues. From lose throttle shafts to deteriorating bowl floors, the white metal these things are made out of are what causes most of the problems. That loose enrichment assy, another issue with the white metal. Threads get worn out. I've found if they're not to worn out, a little pipe dope on the threads and then thread the assy in till its snug not tight will sometimes remedy that problem assisted with a gasket. Not sure what foam thing yer' talkin' about. Firing order on a G is 1-3-4-2. Number one being at the Radiator. Check the floats to see if they are taking on fuel. Pull em' out, and give em' a little shake. If you hear sloshing, the floats are sinking and its flooding. If you have Champion Spark Plugs in that engine, take them out, throw em' away and install either 295 Autolites or NGK plugs. HTH. Steve@B&B
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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Hubert (Ga)engine7
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Jackson Cnty,GA
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Posted: 10 Jun 2025 at 9:08am |
Welcome to the Forum and thank you for your service. Steve is the best on carburetors and ignition for the vintage Allis tractors. He gives great advice and he also can do parts and rebuild if needed.
Hopefully things are improving around Asheville. It was quite a mess when I was up there at the end of October.
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Just an old country boy saved by the grace of God.
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mdm1
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Location: Onalaska, WI
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Posted: 10 Jun 2025 at 10:44am |
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Since the engine is in backwards #1 is at the rear of the tractor. Crank pulley end. If the foam is on the threaded exterior part of the adjusting screw was it put there to maybe stop the screw from turning like a spring would? Just a thought
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Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK!
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DSeries4
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Location: Ontario, Canada
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Posted: 14 Jun 2025 at 10:21am |
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Gs were not around in 1945. 48 Was the first year. I would check the gas tank for any crud and debris that may be in the bottom - might need a good cleaning.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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mdm1
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Posted: 14 Jun 2025 at 11:13am |
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Both of mine did the same thing. I did as you have no luck. Changed the condensor for a capacitor (I know same thing) from a friend. Problem solved. Sometimes we chase fuel problems when it's electrical.
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Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK!
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cabinfourus
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Joined: 03 Jun 2025
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Posted: 21 Jun 2025 at 9:43pm |
Let me list everything I have done-
Rebuilt the carburetor completely. Set the main jet to one full turn out, and the air mixture to 1.5 turns out. Replaced the fuel tank and cap. Replaced the points and condenser. Set the points to .020 Replaced the coil. Rebuilt the wiring harness. Someone had wired the coil backwards, and left the output relay unhooked. Replaced spark plugs and wires. It has been upgraded from 6v to 12v using a GM 1 wire alternator. The engine was completely overhauled at a local tractor repair shop.
It will start up and run, but die after a few seconds (10-20). I pulled the plugs after flooding the engine and found the number 3 cylinder soaked with fuel and the other three dry, but all the plugs were covered black. Since rebuilding the wiring harness, it will now start and run a few seconds.
I'd like to check the timing, but I am not sure where the timing mark for number 1 TDC is located. Is it on the front crankshaft pulley somewhere?
Thank you all so much for the advice. This thing is whipping me, but I refuse to give up!
******Update****** I found the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley. A vertical line. Should it be at 6 o' clock when number 1 is TDC?
Edited by cabinfourus - 21 Jun 2025 at 10:16pm
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cabinfourus
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Posted: 21 Jun 2025 at 9:46pm |
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You would be correct. My fingers were ahead of my brain. It is a 1952-53 model.
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cabinfourus
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Posted: 21 Jun 2025 at 9:48pm |
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That is exactly what I am thinking. Someone had wired this thing up backwards. The coil's positive lead was connected to the points, and the negative to the switch. At this pint, I am willing to try anything.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 21 Jun 2025 at 10:38pm |
Rebuilt the wiring harness. Someone had wired the coil backwards, and left the output relay unhooked.
what does that mean ? "relay" ? Is this a resisitor for a 6v coil to work on 12v ?... if you have a 12v coil, you dont need a resistor..
Edited by steve(ill) - 21 Jun 2025 at 10:41pm
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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cabinfourus
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Posted: 22 Jun 2025 at 12:24pm |
In the service manual, it is listed as the cutout relay.
I was able to get it running today, but it is popping back through the carburetor sporadically. I tried adjusting the main jet, and it fouled the plugs pretty bad.
What is a good starting point with the main jet? I have read that a half turn to a full turn is best, but not sure.
With the electrical system being upgraded to 12v, do I need to connect the cutout relay?
Thank you so much for the help. The guy who owns it is 80, and he hasn't heard it run in over a year. He has been working his garden by hand, and a tiller. I am just trying to help him out with it.
I apologize for any misleading terminology.
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HudCo
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Posted: 22 Jun 2025 at 1:03pm |
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check the valve lash
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HudCo
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Posted: 22 Jun 2025 at 1:08pm |
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also do a leak down test
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mdm1
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Posted: 22 Jun 2025 at 4:08pm |
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The cut out is for the 6v charging system. If it has a 12v alternator no need to connect. I started my initial carb adjustment at 1 1/2 turns out.
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Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK!
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cabinfourus
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Posted: 17 hours 26 minutes ago at 12:11pm |
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Everything looked good on the leak down test. I did check the valve adjustment and they are in spec.
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cabinfourus
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Posted: 17 hours 17 minutes ago at 12:20pm |
I thought that relay was not needed now.
So, here is where I am now.
It will start up and run for 3-5 minutes beautifully. After the 3-5 minutes, it acts like it is running out of fuel and shuts off. I pulled the fuel line, and it is getting a great supply of fuel. I have been through the carburetor twice and know it is all good.
I did install a ballast resistor between the ignition voltage wire and + coil post. When I check the voltage, I have battery voltage on the wire coming into the resistor and 8.3 volts coming out of the resistor. Do I even need this resistor installed? I only did it because this tractor was originally 6v system, and I didn't want to overload the points with voltage. When I put my spark tester inline on the number one cylinder, it looks as if I have a weak spark. This could also be where someone wired up the coil backwards originally and did damage to the coil, couldn't it?
I really appreciate all the help with this thing. It belongs to my 80-year-old neighbor and I am doing this work for free.
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mdm1
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Posted: 16 hours 34 minutes ago at 1:03pm |
Here is a wiring diagram for a 1 wire conversion on a G. Check your wiring against the diagram. Forget about the original 6v system. The points and condenser are fine. Did you replace the coil with a 12v coil? Get a standard or blue streak condenser or maybe try the old one. Quick enough to do. 
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Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK!
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cabinfourus
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Posted: 16 hours 23 minutes ago at 1:14pm |
Thanks, I will go over the wiring again this evening.
It did have a new 12v coil but someone wired it backwards, so I ordered another one and will replace it tomorrow.
To update- If I take the plugs out and clean them, let it sit overnight, it will run for a few minutes but shuts off and will not restart. It tries, but won't. I am running out of options with this thing.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 13 hours 58 minutes ago at 3:39pm |
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Probably coil or condenser getting hot and opening up.....use 12v coil and no resistor
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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