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PickyPotatoPosse 
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Location: Midwest
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 Topic: 1940's Allis Chalmers B Restoration
Posted: 03 Oct 2020 at 9:10pm |
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Hello,
A couple years ago I started restoring my Model B, and got a lot of help here. Life got in the way and I had to leave off the work for a while, but I'm finally getting back to the project.
My current problem is that I can't get the darn thing to start! I have compression, spark, and (I believe) fuel. I may have to tear the carb apart again for another rebuild in case I missed a passage, but I can't get it to start on ether either. I'm clueless as to what could be the problem! Any ideas?
Thank you
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 03 Oct 2020 at 9:15pm |
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if it wont start on ether, then you dont have a spark, or the timing is off.. If you are SURE you have a good spark, then i would check the timing ... Mark is on the flywheel.. look thru the 1 inch hole on the side of the housing... Should have spark when at the TDC mark, NOT the FIRE mark... It will advance to FIRE after it starts.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 03 Oct 2020 at 9:23pm |
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The TDC mark shows up twice for each spark you have. The spark HAS to be there when at TDC of the COMPRESSION Stroke.
Put you thumb over #1 plug hole(its easier to do with all plugs out)and turn the engine over till you feel compression against your thumb. Bring it up to TDC and that is where the spark needs to happen for the engine to run.
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WF owner
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Location: Bombay NY
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Posted: 04 Oct 2020 at 6:57am |
You didn't say if the tractor has a magneto or distributor. If it has a mag, this is the best link I have found for timing a mag. If it has a distributor, I think he has that on another page.
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PickyPotatoPosse
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Posted: 04 Oct 2020 at 9:16am |
It's a distributor, but seems to be an earlier model than what all the manuals and other people show on their Model B's. As far as the inspection hole, I can't seem to find it. If I understand, it should be on the left side of the torque tube, right around where the tube starts to taper down in size?  
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1940 B in restoration process
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PickyPotatoPosse
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Posted: 04 Oct 2020 at 9:24am |
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I have just realized that the timing hole is covered by the mower-frame bolted on in that spot. Guess I know today's project!
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1940 B in restoration process
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Steve in NJ
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Posted: 04 Oct 2020 at 9:51am |
The picture you posted is a picture of a Magneto. If that's what's on your engine, you have a Magneto not a Distributor. As Steve/IL mentioned, if it didn't fire on ether it either has a spark issue or timing is off.
Steve!B&B
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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pumpkinman
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Posted: 04 Oct 2020 at 10:34am |
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the timinlg hole is on fhe left side the mower bracket will swing out of the way
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WF owner
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Posted: 04 Oct 2020 at 7:13pm |
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WF owner
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Posted: 04 Oct 2020 at 7:14pm |
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Make sure the gears inside the mag are timed right, then make sure the mag is timed to the engine correctly.
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PickyPotatoPosse
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Posted: 14 Oct 2020 at 6:04pm |
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Thank you for the clarification and help! Turns out the timing was very much off, and for the first time in ~20 years, she ran! For a good 15 seconds. Now it's back to the carb, it'll run on ether but not gas. I've never had good luck with updraft carbs
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1940 B in restoration process
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PickyPotatoPosse
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Posted: 19 Oct 2020 at 6:36pm |
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So it runs on ether, and will pop/fire once or twice on just the carb, but not run on JUST carb. I used the rebuild kit a few years ago, and cleaned it out very well just last week. Any idea what the problem now could be?
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1940 B in restoration process
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 19 Oct 2020 at 8:30pm |
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well, the float is stuck up, or the inlet gas valve is stuck closed... or the main jet is plugged............ if it wont run, but starts on ether, then the carb is still bad....... unless you have a BIG air leak in the intake manifold.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 19 Oct 2020 at 8:38pm |
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and your sure you have gas flow thru the fuel line / filter / to the carb ?
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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WF owner
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Posted: 20 Oct 2020 at 5:40am |
I always start with the easiest solution first.
I would remove the gas line at the carburetor and check to see if you have a good steady flow of gas. Let it drain in a container for several seconds to see if the flow stays steady. Often it will flow good for a few seconds, then slow up.
You might have to drain the tank and remove the sediment bowl and clean the inlet. Remove the shutoff valve and blow it out also.
If you have good gas flow, you either have a problem in the carb or manifold.
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Eric B
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Posted: 20 Oct 2020 at 10:07pm |
Is your gas reasonably fresh? I've had it in two of my A-C's that they refused to start (with good spark) due to gas that had lost some of the essential components from slow evaporation. The gas smelled perfectly normal but would not fire. After draining tank and carb they both started immediately with fresh gas. I was in disbelief over the night and day difference 
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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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