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1939 RC Adventure

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KD8NGV View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KD8NGV Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jan 2017 at 8:14pm
Today's update: January 17, 2017

I went out and checked on the draining of the transmission oil and the differential.  From what I can tell the transmission is drained out.  The differential still has a lot of sludge inside.  I hope to post the pictures of what I was faced with. 

I started with the transmission oil draining first (yesterday).  When I opened it up, which thankfully the plug came out ok, it had some water come out and then nice goopy sludge oil.  It came out very slow, like it almost was like molasses.  Provided it was about 40* in the shop, it still moved very slow.  I put a bucket under it and went to the rear. 

The rear differential had the filler plug painted shut.  It looked like it had never been opened.  Perhaps in the fifties??  I was determined to take out the plug and reached for my lovely dental pick.*  I used that to chip away at the paint and eventually got it all off around the plug.  Add some PB Blaster and a few hits of a dead blow and she turned open.  I looked inside and saw gears, check, sludge, check, and some semblance of oil in there.  Well it needed to be drained.  Went underneath looking for a plug and found it rear of the two halves and on the driver side.  It is a plug with the square inset drive.  Add some PB and the dental pick and a ratchet extension and wah-lah the plug came out.  BUT NOTHING ELSE DID.  What the devil?  I looked up and in the hole and it was like someone put a rubber plug in.  I stuck my pick in there and as suspected, it was hardened sludge. I poked a few times and out came some water (not as much as the transmission) and then globs of sludge oil.  It was very slow.  After seeing that it needed help, I stick the pick in the hole and wallowed it around.  It seemed to bring the globs out better.  I let it sit overnight and came back today and here we are. 

I need to figure out how to get the rest of the sludge out.  I am thinking about plugging both the transmission and differential up and filling up them both with kerosene.  Then drain and repeat until clean.  I really need to invest in a bore scope! 

So in the mean time I also went looking and found that my engine is most likely not from an RC, which is a bummer.  It is marked as CE 44372 G.  I think this is supposed to be for a C not an RC.  It has the generator bossed in the casting and there are a few bolt holes not being used.  I will post photos of these.  I also notice that the headlights, electrical box and started rod are all MIA so I have to add that to the list. 

Whats next??

I hope to flush the sludge out with kerosene, or what you guys recommend.
I hope to drain the final drives.
I hope to drain the antifreeze.

Thanks for following,

Kevin
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KD8NGV View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KD8NGV Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jan 2017 at 8:22pm
Here is my online album of pictures.  As I add more, this will show them.  Until someone can show my how to use embed code I am going to have to use links for my pictures as I am out of space on here to upload.

https://1drv.ms/a/s!Auo4c4_wWK4Mi6Z9n67Zk1ibyiEl4Q
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TomMN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jan 2017 at 6:54am
I have used kerosene to clean out the old nasty sludge on things I don't plan to tear down soon.  Having it warm would help with that too.
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KD8NGV View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KD8NGV Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jan 2017 at 8:10am
I just got off the phone with my HVAC guy and he has me scheduled in the next two weeks to install my reznor heater in the shop.  I hope that will help keep me a bit warmer!

Thanks Tom
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stu(ON) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jan 2017 at 2:43pm
Sounds like you may not have a manual for that mag.  Fairbanks-Morse and WICO were the OE used by Allis-Chalmers.  Here is a reference for your American Bosch replacement:

http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel/BoschUSA/MagData6.htm


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WC7610 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jan 2017 at 11:14pm
Looks like you have a nice tractor to start with and a fairly "easy" restoration. Good luck!   My Dad and I restored his a few years ago- several "special" parts to the RC. You've found a good group of people to help you as they did me
Before and after:




Edited by WC7610 - 18 Jan 2017 at 11:18pm
Thanks



Most Bad Government has grown out of Too Much Government- Thomas Jefferson
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tom Elder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan 2017 at 6:24am
That is really nice,like a b with super duty drive train.And easier to get in the seat.
2 1949bs,one with belly mower one with side sickle bar
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KD8NGV Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jan 2017 at 3:59pm
I will be replying to the thread hopefully later tonight, but I wanted to let you know that the machine shop said my generator needs new field coils, cutout, and bearings.  I hope to have it by the end of next week!

Thanks,

Kevin


Edited by KD8NGV - 20 Jan 2017 at 3:59pm
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macvette View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote macvette Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jan 2017 at 5:43pm
Our 39 did not have an electrical system, other than the mag, of course.  No lights, etc.  Dad had a generator and starter added when it became more difficult for him to crank it on his own.  It was very well used when we got it.  Lots of seal leaks, but we managed it for quite a few years that way, before we had to have it overhauled.  Thru it all, other mechanical problems were rare.  It was the only tractor we could afford on our 40 acre farm, so the RC did it all.  Pulled a 2 bottom plow in clay soil without problem.  It was a real upgrade to us when Dad bought it.  I was about 4 years old at the time.  Dad told me to remember this day = the tractor was delivered on a flatbed, and a stock truck came and picked up our 2 horses = King and Prince.  (found out much later they went to the fox farm)

By the way, I am 71 years old - so this happened quite a few years ago!    LOL!


Edited by macvette - 20 Jan 2017 at 5:45pm
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Mikez View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mikez Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jan 2017 at 6:08pm
Looks like you bought it from a big famly of orange.
Good luck and enjoy your restoration

Edited by Mikez - 20 Jan 2017 at 6:09pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KD8NGV Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jan 2017 at 7:50pm
Originally posted by stu(ON) stu(ON) wrote:

Sounds like you may not have a manual for that mag.  Fairbanks-Morse and WICO were the OE used by Allis-Chalmers.  Here is a reference for your American Bosch replacement:

http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel/BoschUSA/MagData6.htm



Hey! Thank you so much!!! That is very kind of you for supplying me with that information.  I will be adding that to the books.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KD8NGV Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jan 2017 at 7:56pm
Originally posted by WC7610 WC7610 wrote:

Looks like you have a nice tractor to start with and a fairly "easy" restoration. Good luck!   My Dad and I restored his a few years ago- several "special" parts to the RC. You've found a good group of people to help you as they did me
Before and after:

Wow! That is what I can say about your restoration.  I hope mine can be half of what your end product is.  How long did it take you to finish that project?  I have pretty much decided to restore mine.  Trying to figure out how much time the truck has to spend outside. :)

Thanks,

Kevin
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KD8NGV Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jan 2017 at 8:02pm
Originally posted by macvette macvette wrote:

Our 39 did not have an electrical system, other than the mag, of course.  No lights, etc.  Dad had a generator and starter added when it became more difficult for him to crank it on his own.  It was very well used when we got it.  Lots of seal leaks, but we managed it for quite a few years that way, before we had to have it overhauled.  Thru it all, other mechanical problems were rare.  It was the only tractor we could afford on our 40 acre farm, so the RC did it all.  Pulled a 2 bottom plow in clay soil without problem.  It was a real upgrade to us when Dad bought it.  I was about 4 years old at the time.  Dad told me to remember this day = the tractor was delivered on a flatbed, and a stock truck came and picked up our 2 horses = King and Prince.  (found out much later they went to the fox farm)

By the way, I am 71 years old - so this happened quite a few years ago!    LOL!

Fantastic to hear a story of using the RC.  I was in the shop with mine last night and was talking to the RC asking her about her story.  I wish I knew more about her.  If anyone knows any info on RC3001 Let me know!

Do you have any pictures of your RC?  Do you still have it?

Thanks,

Kevin
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KD8NGV Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jan 2017 at 8:50pm

Progress update: January 23, 2017

Yesterday my father and I went out to work on Rachel, my 39 RC.  I drained the antifreeze from the block and radiator and received a beautiful chocolate milk color at the very end, which I expected.  Though for the most part, it was a lovely shade of green.  I noticed an ever-enlarging puddle of amber oil on my shop floor. Add that to the list of things to investigate.  As I sat there waiting for the antifreeze to drain, I came to the realization that I would like to fully restore her. Where to begin?  I have never done a full restoration on a tractor.  I suppose that this would be a good start.  I was going to restore a WD as my first, but the RC was calling my name.  Here goes, I guess.

 

Where to start?

I looked back and thought, why not from the back to the front?  So, I figured I can start by looking at the final drives and see what condition they were in. I had just put kerosene in the transmission and differential so that needed to wait a few more days until I would drain them.  I jacked up the rear end and placed the jack stand under the cast arm.  Then with much surprise I took the lug nuts off with ease.  They must have been off recently.  This tractor did have practically new rims on the rear.  (A good selling point for me) As I was taking another lug nut off, noting which stud it came from, I heard a dripping sound in front of me.  I looked over and saw that coming from the weep hole on the right side, I was taking the left wheel off, was coming a steady drip of kerosene.  This seemed odd as I thought there was a seal between the differential and the final drive.  I added this as good cause to remove the other side as well.  At any rate, I went about the tire I had in hand.  It came off as easy as can be expected.  At this point my dad came over and we took the fender off.  I think it may need to be replaced. It was patched a lot and I am unsure of the remedy that can be had.  I must talk to my body man.  I am open to your thoughts as well.  We then proceeded to remove the final drive cover.  We did not remove the seal cover as I did not know if the nuts were fastened to bolts or studs.  Once I opened the cover, I saw that it was studs.  For anyone tearing one apart, note that you can take the seal cover off, and probably should.

The final moment had come.  We had cracked open the seal of the final drive cover and not much came out but a slow drip of old thick black oil.  We had the cover off before the first drip hit the floor.  It was messy thick goop.  Thankfully the bull and pinion gears were both thoroughly covered.  We inspected the gears and they were in GREAT shape.  No pitting, chipping, wear, or tear.  I was very happy about this!!! I grabbed the hub and it had a bit of in and out play but no side to side.  I think this is good (correct me if I am wrong). I also did the same with the pinion gear.  Good. 

I opened the brake cover and was very happy in that cavity.  Everything seemed to be in order with at least 3/16 of an inch of pads on the band. With a smile on my face, I went to the other side.

We did the same as the left, and now the tractor was immobile: both rear tires placed in the front, where there was room for them.  The front set were probably saying something like: “Hey, Aren’t you guys supposed to be behind me?”  I noticed on the final drive cover that a patch had been made on the top of it about 3 inches long and 2 inches wide. When we opened her up I saw not so good things:

1.    The bull gear teeth were tore up

2.    The pinon teeth were tore up too

3.    The bearing could be seen for the pinion gear shaft

4.    The above was very loose

5.    I think there was about 3/8” to ½” of side to side play in the pinion gear

6.    The pinion gear stuck out much farther than it should

7.    I found that there were two lock washers in the sludge along with a fair amount of metal pieces

I am glad I opened up the final drives.  I have attached the photos to the link to my album.  Take a gander.  Here is what I know.

1.    I need a new pinion gear/shaft

2.    I need a new final drive (I think, I am open to the thoughts of you after you see the pictures)

3.    I need to figure out how to disassemble the rear end 

4.    I think I need to get another left side final drive cover

If you have experience or tips on this, please let me know.  I am excited to share this journey with you. I love hearing from you!

 

Thanks,

 

Kevin

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