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190xt MN 
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Joined: 15 Sep 2019
Location: Minnesota
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 Topic: 190xt traction booster
Posted: 09 May 2020 at 7:59am |
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Hello everyone. I just picked up and F 145 h John Deere plow for my 190xt. I am still messing with adjustments to get it to plow well and was wondering where is the best setting forthe traction booster. I plowed just a little last night, trying to get the depth set right front to back. I should have wire wheeled the moldboards before i went out, probably would have done a better job. Thanks in advance for any replies!
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DSeries4
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Ontario, Canada
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Posted: 09 May 2020 at 9:25am |
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To set the depth, you want to use the position control lever, not the traction booster. If the F145 plow is a 4 furrow (which I think it is), you shouldn't need the traction booster. We used to run one on our 175.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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190xt MN
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Location: Minnesota
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Posted: 09 May 2020 at 12:00pm |
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Ok I noticed that I have to have the traction booster lever just a off zero for the depth control to work. But if I don’t need it beyond that, I won’t increase it. I’m going to wire wheel those bottoms off so they scour better and give it a try agian. The rear depth stop on the plow doesn’t work the best either, so I might end up with some cylinder shims to get the desired depth at the back. It is fun to plow with, and will be more fun when I get the plow set right. If I could figure out how to, I’d post a pic of the tractor and plow. Thanks for the info!!
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FREEDGUY
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Joined: 15 Apr 2017
Location: South West Mich
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Posted: 09 May 2020 at 3:31pm |
Your comment about the "rear depth stop" has me puzzled  . Is there a gauge wheel back there that holds the ass end up ?? That's what I LOVED about the White 508 plow, NO gauge wheel and NEVER touched the remote lever to raise/lower once in the field 
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jiminnd
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Location: Rutland ND
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Posted: 09 May 2020 at 4:06pm |
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On my 185 I use the traction booster lever, put up down lever in down position and move traction booster lever to the depth you want. Start with it deep and just keep moving it shallower til you get the depth you want. Make sure the depth control lever is all the way off.
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1945 C, 1949 WF and WD, 1981 185, 1982 8030, unknown D14(nonrunner)
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190xt MN
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Posted: 09 May 2020 at 5:40pm |
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I’ll try that with the traction booster lever. As to the question about the depth stop, it’s supposed to hold the rear up, but I don’t think it works as designed. I’m going to set it to book spec, and just put a few cylinder stops in to get the rear depth right.
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MACK
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Posted: 09 May 2020 at 9:20pm |
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Might check torsion bar for traction booster. Most are worn to where they are against the stop. Set poison control just below the max depth you want to plow. Then set TB To where it stays just above PC depth. Your PC keeps it from going too deep in loose ground.
There should be a bolt between the two arms to tail wheel for depth stop. A gauge wheel works better. MACK
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190xt MN
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Posted: 09 May 2020 at 9:56pm |
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Thanks for all the replies.
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jiminnd
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Posted: 10 May 2020 at 9:38am |
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I looked at the owners manual, this is what it says, the lift arm control lever in the traction booster detent position, the position control lever must be down in the highest number position. select the desired depth with the traction booster lever. I don't know if this makes any more sense but it is out of the
book for a series 3.
edit; I read this wrong it is for pre series 3, prior to serial number 23001.
Edited by jiminnd - 10 May 2020 at 9:58am
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1945 C, 1949 WF and WD, 1981 185, 1982 8030, unknown D14(nonrunner)
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DrAllis
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Posted: 10 May 2020 at 9:59am |
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I hope your Traction Booster system works as designed. Many of the torsion bar parts are worn out and then will not perform as they should. Sometimes linkage under the platform has become disconnected or out of place. Position control lever should be all the way down and then lift up on the Traction Booster lever until the front of the plow operates at the depth you desire. Do this while the lift/lower lever is set just ahead of the "hold" position.
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190xt MN
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Posted: 10 May 2020 at 10:11am |
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Thanks for the info! As soon as the temp outside gets back to the 60’s from the high 30’s and snow we have in north central MN today, I’m going to shine those moldboards up and try the controls in those positions. I have a Jensales service manual for the tractor, but no operators manual. Should have gotten one of those too! Thanks to everyone for the replies! I want to get it plowing right before I have to turn under some rye for green fertilizer. I think once it is set right, it will be an excellent match for the tractor.
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tbran
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Posted: 10 May 2020 at 7:58pm |
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On every 3 point D17IV to the 7000 using the basic same 3 point. If you can pull the lift arms back until the LH side touches the back frame stop on the same side - you have NO draft capability. One should not be able to push and pull on the lift arms and get any movement. There is a preload bolt on the LH side that screws in to preload the torsion bar and it must be kept adjusted. We had had to take the jam nut off and move it to the inside to allow the bolt to load the bar as it wears. If one has the time and welding ability it can be welded in the wear parts of the hex area and will last a while. Since few if any ever adjusted the slack it slammed back and forth and wore - it only moves a small amount. AS to adjustment, we did what the book stated, plow with the draft setting the depth, however on flat fields I would reach back and pull up on the position control and "feel" the lever touch the draft button and leave it just backed off a tad - this would prevent the plow from going too deep in ez soil places and prevent the up down cycle in some soils.
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When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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190xt MN
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Posted: 22 May 2020 at 4:02pm |
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Hi everyone. I got back to checking the traction booster linkage on my xt after planting corn and getting some other things done. There was adjustment left in the torsion bar adjusting screw gained by moving the jamb nut around to the back side of the bolt, as it said in tbrans post. I have a service manual for the tractor. My question is, how much preload should be put on the torsion bar? The service manual says to take the adjusting screw 2 turns tight, then back off until finger tight. I can only get 1 full turn out of it after the right side contacts the stop on the torsion bar. Am I missing something? I don’t want to put too much preload on it.Thanks for any replies.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 22 May 2020 at 5:12pm |
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Your torsion bar is worn out. There must be some kind of a gap, at least 1/2" for the bar to flex under a pull. This is what I eluded to on my May 10th post.
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190xt MN
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Posted: 22 May 2020 at 5:19pm |
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Ok sounds good. I’ll adjust it for a small gap and then go with that. Thanks Dr. Allis I appreciate the input. The plow doesn’t pull too hard in the sand anyway, so as long as the depth control works witch it does, I’ll be good! Have a good weekend!
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MACK
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Posted: 22 May 2020 at 9:32pm |
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No, you need to weld up torsion bar and housing that torsion bar goes in. Without proper adjustment, TB WON'T work. MACK
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190xt MN
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Posted: 22 May 2020 at 10:01pm |
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Ok thanks MACK. I’ll just work with the depth control for now and fix the torsion bar up as a winter project. One of the other things we’ve been working on besides planting corn is building and wiring up a 32x40x14 shop. That’ll make the winter projects a lot nicer to do!! You guys have a good holiday. Thanks!!
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MACK
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Posted: 23 May 2020 at 7:03am |
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You will love that shop. MACK
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190xt MN
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Posted: 23 May 2020 at 11:28am |
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Yeah we are excited to have a heated area to work that’s bigger then a car garage stall. It was getting old pulling the exhaust off the xt every time just to do some work on it!
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