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190XT project |
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ebowman ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 06 Sep 2018 Location: Kirklin, IN Points: 161 |
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I'm tearing down a 190XT for an overhaul. Just about have the engine completely tore down. On the to do list is turn crank, have the head redone, and new bearings and pistons. When I finally got the engine pulled out this weekend I found that the clutch that I put in about 5 years ago needs replaced. It is a 4 pad clutch and other than that I dont know what material. I use this tractor alot with a loader. Wrapping and feeding hay and loading manure. Question is.... why did the clutch wear out in 5 years?? Also, it appears to have waaay to much gear lashing on the crank. I am going to have a new gear put on when I turn crank. Going to replace the idler gear as well. Do I need to replace all 4 of the gears at the same time? I haven't pulled the camshaft out yet, but was planning on new lifters.
Help me out with some pointers!! has about 8000 hours on it and nothing major has ever been done to engine.
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WD45, '62 D17 Diesel, '65 190XTD, '74 7030, 1958 Roto-Baler
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darrel in ND ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 22 Nov 2009 Location: Hebron, ND Points: 8691 |
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As for the clutch; loader work, and other chores that require a lot of clutching will wear a clutch out way faster than the type of use, such as field work, where you let the clutch out in the morning, and don't step on it again until you stop for dinner. I did hear one time, that for the type of use of constant clutching/de-clutching, and never a hard pull, a fiber disk clutch plate will out last a button clutch. I can't verify that though. Darrel
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6080fwa ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 10 Apr 2018 Location: Alberta Points: 79 |
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I know on my 175 there was a 4 pad option and I think a 6 pad option for clutches. Maybe try to get a heavy duty one for it. Luk makes a lot of clutches for oe manufacturers.
I would never install a 4 pad clutch on anything if I could help it.
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WF owner ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 May 2013 Location: Bombay NY Points: 4912 |
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Talk to Rick Corder about the clutch. I, personally, think his clutch (and brake) rebuilds are better than anything you can buy today.
Before you have the crank turned, ask DrAllis' advice on crank turning.
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SteveM C/IL ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Shelbyville IL Points: 8522 |
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....I don't know about 301's but the book on my 8000 426 is very specific
about how the crank is to be ground.I think the problem arises when given directions aren't followed. |
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DougG ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 20 Sep 2009 Location: Mo Points: 8269 |
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That crank grinding thing is a big deal that I really don't understand , but would like to know the details on it
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MACK ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664 |
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If you have a good man and a good machine, a regrind is ok. MACK
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ebowman ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 06 Sep 2018 Location: Kirklin, IN Points: 161 |
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From the research I have done a regrind will be fine if done properly. Its all about the fillet radius (If you Google it there is a wealth of info). Some shops grind that out and that is what destroys the crank. The service book for the 190 does a really good job explaining how to grind it. I am going to take the book with me when I drop off the crank so they can use it as a reference. It sounds like the 426s had some trouble with the cranks. However, is that a result of an inferior product or is that a result of setting the machine up for something it wasn't designed for?? Products of this era seem to be overbuilt and under engineered. Newer equipment is over engineered and under built!
Still I know there is TONS of knowledge on this site and welcome any and all of it. While doing this rebiuld I want to make her almost as good as new or better so that we don't have to crack her open for another 50 years!!
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WD45, '62 D17 Diesel, '65 190XTD, '74 7030, 1958 Roto-Baler
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