190XT III Bummer

I rebuilt, set and installed injectors. [also has new pump] No pop. I pulled #1 injector and cranked getting only 150psi on the gauge. This engine sat for 25 years in a shed. Now before I re-ring or start tearing it apart, would there be any sense in pulling the injectors and pouring marvel into cyls? When cranking theres a lot of compression coming out of the breather. What would you do next? Thanks, Dana

Are you getting any black smoke out of the exhaust?  Did you bleed lines to make sure you're getting fuel to the injectors?  Is it cranking fast enough and did you use the pre-heater or a small shot of ether?  Its possible the rings have stuck from sitting that long. You could try putting some penetrating fluid in the cylinders and let it sit for a few days and then try cranking it over again before you put the injectors back in.

did you pull the valve cover and check to see if any of the valves are stuck open?

Well I have watched the valves from messing around replacing the pump but will certainlt check them again. I assumed the crankcase vent which exits the engine at the valve cover was the only excape vent for leaking rings. I'll take the valve cover off [again] and crank. The vent is like an air compressor. Thanks for the ideas. Dana PS what oil mix to soak cyls while Im messing with the valves?

Smell your exhaust, do you smell any fuel?

a few other tips for starting a troublesome engine, a good amount of fresh fuel in the tank and make sure you are getting a good supply to the pump, we put the pressure side of a shop vac into the tank and held a rag over to make a slight pressure in the tank. Also like said check valves for closing, even if one was sticking though it should run rough on 5 cylinders. If your not getting smoke you may still have an air buble in the fuel line and I wouldn't even think about doing this with a high of 35 I would get it in a shop of 60 and above and I would still plug it in. My tired old 200 will crank all day and not start when it is cold but warm it up and starts like summer. Or if you are good or feel lucky see if you can start it on ether and keep it running till it runs on its own only as a last resort. Also when you get it warmed up it should turn over faster and up the compression.

Thanks y'all. What took me 3 hours yesterday for injector installation took me 30 minutes this am to undo. lol I poured a quarter cup of 50-50 acetone and atf into cyl 1. I tickled the starter to slosh it. After a half hour I turned it over to blow it out and hooked compression tester to it, got 400 pounds. So then I did the same for #5 and read almost 400 pounds. Yesterday I had 150. So I turned it over some to blow everything out and to watch the valves, and then refilled each cyl with 1/2 cup of the 50-50 concoction, plugged holes with towels and covered it up. I'll let her sit for a week. It seems maybe just maybe this will help free up the rings. The tractor was parked after the guy sold his farm. He wouldn't sell this tractor. There was nothing wrong with it at all with 3000 hours, late 1970 model. He has Alsheimers now but his son sold it to me and it had no known mechanical problems. The valves all seem fine and the oil pump from cranking engine has lots of oil up there. Next week when I compression test should I drain the oil before I try to start it...because of the marvel oil, acetone and atf that has probably seeped into sump? Or is it OK to run for a few minutes? The fuel delivery system, timing, pump and injectors are all aok. Thanks again. Dana

If you went from 150 psi to 400 psi, Id say its ready to start and run!!!!   The warmer you can get the eng the better for starting-plug in the block heater if it has one, Ive use a space heater under the eng to warm up too.   Throttle wide open, use the air heater and twist her tail, once it starts to fire you can pull back on the throttle so it doesnt run at wide open throttle.  Change oil after its warmed up-the oil pan is warm.   Good luck!!

A couple 10 second spins with the starter should eliminate excess oil from cylinders,then install injectors.In fact,repeat till no more visable oil spray. Be prepared for the mist bath.The bowls will still be full.

Good advice from everyone.   After getting the injectors back in, and the lines on, I would leave them loose and crank it till you got good fuel at the injectors and then tighten them up.   Helps to get the air out and speed up the process of getting everything all primed up.  

Thanks yall. It was 8* last night and up to 14 today with 35 knot winds. I have been prepping sheet metal, greasing wheel bearings, etc but nada today in this weather! Thanks Dnoym. I have never had experiences such as working on something that has set undisturbed since the mid 80's when I was young. lol I certainly am not afraid to do an inframe OH but I would just as soon get her running and bale 12000 bales with her this summer and then see where we stand. You guys will know what I'll be doing this week when the thermom hits 45*!! Wish me luck! Dana PS I had trouble sleeping last night; I kept thinking I should hinge the hood either forward or backwards with lots of rubber mounts for ease of fiddling under the hood!

On my 190 I welded washers with half inch holes over the two slots on the top rear of the hood. Then used 3 inch grade 8 bolts through the washers to act as a hinge. This allows you to pivot the hood up from the front and install a prop down to the radiator fan shroud to hold it. Or you can use a small hoist to lift and hold it.

Got smoke rolling yet, Dana?