185 engine dying...what are all the possibilities?

I recently inherited a 185 (1971 or 72 I think) from my deceased father-in-law. I drove it home (about 4 miles) and a few days later, I mowed the fields (about 1 ½ hours). It started losing power and after a few minutes died. I could restart, but it would very soon die again.

I suspected a fuel delivery issue, I checked the sediment bowl (it had a bit) and found it had no screen. I replaced the bowl with a new one and replaced the fuel filter. No luck.

I searched the web and found many similar problems suggesting a clogged return line. I tried the suggested diagnosis of loosening the timing cover plate until fuel leaked and that worked. I was able to drive it back to the shed about 100 yards. I blew out the return line and found no obstruction. The check valve seems to be okay (I guess).

From what I’ve read, the problem stems from a degraded governor ring in the Roosamaster fuel pump, but I’m not seeing any evidence (everyone says you should see black gunk clogging the valve or line). I also loosened the timing cover again and put a towel to catch fuel to see if I could see any bits of the black gunk and found none at all.

My father-in-law was a good mechanic and had many tractors. I believe he had this tractor for only a couple years and I have no way of knowing if he rebuilt the pump, or if the previous owner (unknown) rebuilt it.

So, what am I missing? What else should I try? I’m NOT a mechanic, and this is all new to me, just trying to figure this out. 

Try to make sure your fuel cap is venting!

It is the check valve in top of pump. Take the glass ball out along with spring and alot of black stuff. Put fitting back in and it should run fine. You should get the weight retainer replaced soon.  MACK

If the screen was out there could be a clog anywhere in the system. If it were me I'd clean the entire fuel delivery system from tank to cylinder, reassemble and give it a whirl.

I had a dead bug in the fuel tank of the 220 that would float around until it got sucked into the fitting at the bottom of the tank. When this happened the engine would starve for fuel and finally sputter out. If one undid the hose just before the sediment bowl and blew back up the line to the tank the bug popped loose and everything ran good until the bug... I found the problem when I blew a hydraulic line under the tank/cab and had to drain the tank. Cleaned the tank out and problem solved.

I had the same thing happen to my Case 1835C skid loader. I thought the pump was failing. A buddy of mine told me to grind the end off of the fitting and remove the glass ball and spring.It was full of black stuff. 4 years ago and still running well.

David, its best if you take that pump off and get it rebuilt before you need to buy a new pump after the old flex ring finally takes a crap.  And it will cost you more than a rebuild at that point.

Sometimes when that governor ring fails in the pump it will run the engine speed up into NASCAR engine speeds and the tractor engine isn't lubricated or balanced for that. Nor is the flywheel made for those speeds. The damage from the engine coming apart can be terminal for the block, the tractor, and the operator. Better to get that governor ring replaced while the rest of the engine is still in good condition.

Gerald J.

Update: I actually started to file the check valve open, but I stopped myself and re-read this entire thread and decided to no do so on injpumpEd's advice. So I took the valve and soaked in for a few hours in some penetrating fluid and worked the ball in and out every so often. I still never saw any evidence of black particles as everyone describes from a degraded plastic governor ring.

I put it back on and now everything is running great!

So... I know that the governor ring might still be the problem and I will find out if the problem keeps happening, but what I also don't know is if the pump had ever been rebuilt. As I said earlier, that is exactly the kind of thing my father-in-law would have done, just for fun if not necessity. The tractor did sit for a couple years after his death with only occasional starting by my brother-in-law.

Two questions:
1. is it possible that the valve was just gummed up a bit to have caused the problem, and not a governor ring issue?
2. is there any way to tell if the pump has been rebuilt without tearing it apart?

And thanks again for all the feedback folks!


Edited by design219 - 12 May 2013 at 9:10am

Genrally speaking, if the tractor has not been repainted, and the injection pump is still orange, it is probably original. Many times they are left unpainted when rebuilt and/or have a "rebuilder business" tag stuck on them. From the A-C factory, there is no rebuilder tag on them period. Look at the mounting nuts that hold the pump to the timing cover. If they have any paint missing on them from a wrench, the pump has been removed....pretty easy to tell if a wrench has removed a nut or bolt if the paint is damaged.

I'm glad you found the source of the problem and that you can get it fixed soon.  I know $800 sounds like a lot, but try pricing a pump rebuild on some of the newer AGCO stuff.  My brother just paid $3500 to get an AGCO/Massey Ferguson going. 

Once you are back up and running, you will be glad you spent the money.


Edited by CaseyCreek - 20 May 2013 at 1:06pm

hey Design29, is the timing window that little plate with the 2 screws next to the model no. plate?   Also, is the crud your seeing from the top of the pump removed?