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175D Brake job

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Curt IA View Drop Down
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Carlisle, IA
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Curt IA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 175D Brake job
    Posted: 12 Sep 2010 at 10:24pm
My 1979 175D needs a brake job, the linkage came loose on the left side and the right side will hardly stop it. Is this something I can do by myself? I am fairly mechanically inclined just haven't done brakes on a tractor before. I need to use some vacation so I figured I could try it and save some money instead of taking it to the shop. Also when I am in 4th High there is a low pitch whine, not noticeable going down hill, but pretty loud when under load or going up hill, any ideas what would cause it? Changed gear lube in finals drives last year, they seemed ok.
Thanks, Curt
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Eldon (WA) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eldon (WA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Sep 2010 at 10:50pm
Curt I think once you do one, the second one will be much easier...that said, when you get done come on out and do my 175D and D17 SIV Diesel....
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Chris/CT View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chris/CT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Sep 2010 at 5:46am
It's a straight forward job you can do. Obviously you need some way of removing/inserting final drives, new linings,rivets,springs for the brake assy's. Be sure to get the clearance correct on the disc to facing contact point to be sure of good life for new brakes. 
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Curt IA View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Curt IA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Sep 2010 at 9:39pm
Anybody hear of whining noise in the reaend like this ? Also when I am in 4th High there is a low pitch whine, not noticeable going down hill, but pretty loud when under load or going up hill, any ideas what would cause it? Changed gear lube in finals drives last year, they seemed ok.
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Eldon (WA) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eldon (WA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Sep 2010 at 9:44pm
The 170D that I am parting out had a whine like that....very annoying, but no clunking or grabbing....I'm thinking maybe a rough bearing as this tractor sat for 18 years before I bought it. It was kinda annoying driving it down the road....
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Skyhighballoon(MO) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Skyhighballoon(MO) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Sep 2010 at 9:57pm
Could be just pitting on the final drive gears from little rust spots that form over the years from condensation inside the cases from heat-up in the day and cool down at nite...several of my tractors do that too and I don't think I have any bearings going out.  Mike
1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex
1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330
1969 180 gas
1965 D17 S-IV gas
1963 D17 S-III gas
1956 WD45 gas NF PS
1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin
303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers
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Gatz in NE View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gatz in NE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Sep 2010 at 10:54pm
 
Here's a pic of what the final looks like when pulled apart.
 
and, the page is is from an I&T manual for a D17 s4, but should be the same for 175.  Shows the important dimension "A"
 
Gatz
 
 
 
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Clay View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Clay Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Sep 2010 at 12:11am
Great information.  The photo answers  many questions.



Edited by Clay - 14 Sep 2010 at 12:33am
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JC-WI View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JC-WI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Sep 2010 at 9:34am
When I helped a neighbor get his brakes in his tractor, Ihad to machine off the inner and outter surfaces of brake faces to get them smooth again...which increased the the shims to where I took a sheet of steel and made a thick shim of 1/8th inch, maybe 3/16 and then added shims back in to make the 2.034-2.044 dimension. Not the ethical way but was cheaper than buying the two braking surfaces new... and that was 12 years ago and still workinggreat. Now his other brake needs work. So much wear was caused by a broken spring and allowed the brake assembly to rub
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rr4406pak View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rr4406pak Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Nov 2010 at 1:02pm
My God, you have to remove the whole wheel, axle and housing to change the brake pads??? 
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gcalent View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gcalent Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Nov 2010 at 2:30pm
Yes and all the hydraulic valves and fenders have to come off as well. Sounds worse than it is, but you do need a shop crane or some way to handle the final drives.
Pullin With AC
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Nov 2010 at 2:38pm
Originally posted by rr4406pak rr4406pak wrote:

My God, you have to remove the whole wheel, axle and housing to change the brake pads??? 

Ever do a brake job on a 4020? Of course they are wet and last a very long time like 7000 series Allis.
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