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Leon B MO 
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Old Monroe, Mo
Points: 2131
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 Topic: 175 brakes
Posted: 09 Apr 2010 at 8:48pm |
My neighbor asked me if I would be interested in replacing the brakes on his 175, he said he thought the tractor had to be split. I simply don't remember how the brakes come out or where they are located without looking at the tractor. I don't have a manual for a 175 and he would have to haul the tractor to me, so any input would be helpfull. Also how many hours should it take, I am working lots of hours and just want to get an idea of what I am getting into.
Thanks all and take care.
Leon B MO
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Uncle always said "Fill the back of the shovel and the front will take care of itself".
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JCinPA
Silver Level
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Turbotville,Pa.
Points: 75
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Posted: 09 Apr 2010 at 8:51pm |
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axle housings must come off of each side to get to the brakes. Not shure about hours. JCinPA
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Leon B MO
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Old Monroe, Mo
Points: 2131
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Posted: 09 Apr 2010 at 8:59pm |
So are they similar to the D series? If so that won't be so bad.
Leon B MO
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Uncle always said "Fill the back of the shovel and the front will take care of itself".
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Rick
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Jonesburg,Mo.
Points: 3654
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Posted: 09 Apr 2010 at 9:58pm |
Leon, Yes...they're similar to the D17 Series III and IV tractors. Since I know you have the tools to do the job,it won't be that hard of a job. Rick
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Chris/CT
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Niantic, Ct
Points: 1939
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Posted: 09 Apr 2010 at 10:32pm |
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I think I can supply the Plate lining facings, and the Band lining material, I got it from my lining guy for my 175, that's assuming your OK doing the riveting. Be sure to purchase NEW return springs and install. Make sure you shim the friction plate to spec or all you have done will shortly be for naut. Chris/CT
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Leon B MO
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Old Monroe, Mo
Points: 2131
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Posted: 10 Apr 2010 at 4:48am |
OK, maybe I need a printout of the "R & R" for the shims and specs or is it something that is self-expaining. If someone had that I would feel much better going into the job. Or if anyone has a "manual" for that series they would be willing to sell let me know, I don't care for ebay.
Thanks again.
Leon B MO
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Uncle always said "Fill the back of the shovel and the front will take care of itself".
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Chris/CT
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Niantic, Ct
Points: 1939
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Posted: 10 Apr 2010 at 6:04am |
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I could send you some copy's of Parts/Service pages that would help you, although it is pretty straightfoward. The Friction disc spins on axle and makes contact against Friction plate, too much clearance NG, not enough clearance NG, Add/remove shims behind FPlate to achieve proper spacing.
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JoeO(CMO)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Cent Missouri
Points: 2694
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Posted: 10 Apr 2010 at 6:52am |
Leon, here is sort of a guide I put together whe I did my 185, HTH.
Drain fluids as needed.
Start by soaking the pins for the lift rams at the base as the pins will need to come out.
Remove seat assembly and brake cover.
While you are soaking, soak the top pivot pins on
brake bands, they will most likely not come out easily, may need a hot wrench for them.
Removebbbb anything mounted above the fenders, like ROPS, canopy.
Remove batteries, box, fenders and platforms.
Use safe supports under differential housing and hitch area to support SAFELY!
Remove wheel weights, then remove the tires/rims from the centers, this I thought would be easier to attach chains for hoisting to the wheel center and housing.
Remove the lift ram pin at the base end.
Attach chain(s) to the axle, supporting axle as in line as possible, remove nuts from axle housing and remove axle.
You will want to put new seals in the differential carrier bearings(inside and will have to be removed to do this), inspect O rings closely, its easier to replace them now vs do it later when you don't have the time to do it.
The left side is the easiest and I started on it first, your preference though.
The hydraulic control assembly will need to loosened/jockied and some linkage disconnected to remove right axle , take your time, it can be done.
I did the left side first(the easiest) then went to the right.
I did my 185 some years ago and may have forgotten a few little things but you will see these as you work along the way.
I hope this is clear to understand, HTH
b
Edited by JoeO(CMO) - 10 Apr 2010 at 7:23am
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Leon B MO
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Old Monroe, Mo
Points: 2131
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Posted: 10 Apr 2010 at 6:11pm |
Thanks very much for all the info, sounds like I will be able to tackle this one in the near future.
Leon B MO
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Uncle always said "Fill the back of the shovel and the front will take care of itself".
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 20884
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Posted: 10 Apr 2010 at 8:15pm |
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Bottom pin on lift cylinder doesn't have to be removed if it is stuck.....remove the rod end pin (dropping the cylinder down) and disconnect the hose and remove 90 degree fitting from the cylinder.....there is enough room for the axle to slip by. I used to bid these jobs at 8 hrs. I never removed a wheel or wheel weights and seldom a fender. I had a forklift that would handle the whole enchilada and side shift to boot.
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bauerd44
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Wentzville, MO
Points: 350
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Posted: 10 Apr 2010 at 8:32pm |
Dr. Allis, is that 8 hours per side or 8 hours for both sides.
Thanks Dale
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Eldon (WA)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Spokane, WA
Points: 7765
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Posted: 10 Apr 2010 at 9:29pm |
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I imagine you could do both sides in 8 hours after you did a couple....but you better keep two fingers crossed at all times LOL! Of course 8 hours @ $75 shop rate adds up real quick! I know I am not looking forward to doing my D17 SIV and 175D.....
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