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170 Allis has wobly steering shaft |
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Will G
Bronze Level Joined: 25 Mar 2020 Location: NY Points: 12 |
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Posted: 01 Apr 2020 at 7:38pm |
Hi all. Hope every one is well out there. These crazy times have me playing mechanic on my 170 Allis. There is a big pivot arm on the underside of the front of the tractor. The tie rods are connected to this arm. It appears the heavy duty arm is on a splined shaft. The arm is wobbly on that shaft. It appears that the arm should be up higher on the shaft but I can't see how that arm is connected to the shaft to see how I can tighten it up. Any help would be appreciated. Stay safe. Thanks, Will
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DSeries4
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Ontario, Canada Points: 7333 |
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The arm is held on the splined shaft by a big roll pin. I have found that the roll pin gets worn over time. Putting a new roll pin in will give the arm a better fit on the shaft, but I would also check the bearings that support the shaft, I have had to change those before. Check for movement of the shaft in every direction.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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Will G
Bronze Level Joined: 25 Mar 2020 Location: NY Points: 12 |
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Thanks a bunch DSeries4. I guess I need to take a closer look at the area. When I looked at it from under the front that shaft disappears up into an area that is not easily accessible. You appear to know a lot about the tractor model. Would you mind sharing a bit more explanation about the pin that might be worn and if I can see it from underneath to determine if it is. Would I expect to be able to drive it out without a lot of issues. Is the pin something I should be able to get from a auto parts store or hardware store? Also a little more info on how I could tell if the bearings are bad and how to get to them. If it isn't a dangerous issue I really don't want to tear the whole front end apart. I'm also needing to replace the front crank seal, do you know what size socket is needed for the bolt that holds the pulley on. Would I expect that pulley to come off fairly easy. I have had this tractor for 38 years and like me, it's showing some of it's age. I am self employed and due to the virus NYS is not allowing me to work , which I understand, so I am learning a bit about tractor mechanics. I'm asking for a lot of info here and really appreciate you taking the time to help me. Thanks for you kindness, Will
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DSeries4
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Ontario, Canada Points: 7333 |
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Well, if you have to replace the front crank seal, the front axle WILL have to be pulled away because you will need room to put a gear puller on the pulley. That would also give you more room to play around with your steering shaft. To check the roll pin for wear, you will need to pound it out. It should feel smooth and uniform along its length. If not, it is worn. New ones can be found anywhere. I usually go to Napa. The steering shaft should fit in the housing snugly with very little side to side movement. If it feels sloppy, then I would replace the bearing. I did this on my D17, your 170 should be similar, but I am not 100%. Have a look at the AGCO parts book. It shows you how things go together.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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Will G
Bronze Level Joined: 25 Mar 2020 Location: NY Points: 12 |
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Good morning D Series4 Thanks a bunch for your advise on my front crank seal replacement and steering pin issue. I was able to remove and install a new crank seal without removing the front end. The pulley is splined and came off quite easily but getting the old seal out while working in a small space took some doing. I did check out the side to side movement on the steering pivot arm and it appears to be tight. I did see the roll pin and it's possible there is wear there but there's little room to drive it out so I will have to look that over a bit more. The battery was not getting charged and with a bit of trouble shooting I found the voltage regulator plug was rusted so bad there was a couple of connectors rusted completely off. I checked on line and found out how to check to see if the alternator was charging and it is so I have ordered a new regulator and pigtail. I am slowly getting the old gal back up to good shape. Thanks for all the help. I will likely have more questions down the road. Stay safe, Will
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jaybmiller
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 22460 |
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re: wobbly part..... I don't have that tractor, just talking in 'general terms'.......but kinda important to get it fixed PDQ. I can 'see' that if left wobbly, it'll chew up the splines, maybe just the 'part' and not the 'shaft'..then you're in BIG trouble.... if the holes where the rollpin go into the 'part' are egg shaped, that'll have to be repaired or replaced I'd replace the roll pin even if it looks 'ok'. I've seen where some put a second, smaller roll pin inside the original. It really 'firms' up the fit. Also I'd grease/neverseize it to prevent future water/rust problems. be sure to support the 'plate' when removing. I bet it's heavier than you think !! Maybe bailing wire in the tierod end holes to hold it up ?? Jay
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