120V photocell ques (update)

Yours seems to NOT do that.. I would assume your light is on ALL THE TIME ?  Some also have a sensitivity switch on the side you can vary the light needed to turn off.

" So if i take the photocell out and set it in the daylight and test continuity across the black and red wire what should the meter indicate.  Mine shows continuity."

Well, in a simple theory sense, the photocell SHOULD conduct in the dark, and be non-conductive in the light...  But there's about two dozen different ways companies have made photocell controllers, and putting a continuity tester on 'em might NOT reveal what you'd expect.  Many 'old' controllers use a mechanical relay who's coil is powered by a control circuit, and the relay contact works 'opposite', and the CDS sensor USES a little 120v power to both sense the light AND energize the relay, which could give a meter an indication you wouldn't expect.

So the short answer, is that they frequently fool the BEST 'jucetricians'... they act totally different under the several volts of a tester, than when applied to line voltage.

Best move is to just stick another one in, because they're subjected to some pretty harsh electrical circumstances, they just don't last forever... and they're inexpensive.  The most expensive part, is gettin' up there to replace the darned things.

I hear 'ya.  I don't run photocells on any of my outdoor lights, instead, I have a contactor box on each pole, and in each building, that controls power to my outdoor lighting, and on that box is a switch for 'local/remote'.  In the local position, the light is on.  In the remote position, the contactor controls the light. The contactors are activated by a control unit in the basement of the house, its a whole lot more reliable than a photocell, and much more flexible.  I can control the lighting zones with remote controls in each of my vehicles, the tractors, forklifts, and from inside the house.