D19D energy cells need advice
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=211668
Printed Date: 18 Sep 2026 at 10:06am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: D19D energy cells need advice
Posted By: Jess
Subject: D19D energy cells need advice
Date Posted: 12 Jul 2026 at 2:45pm
| I have a D19D that has been running ruff and smokes bad. I don't know any history on it so I pulled Injectors and looked through to see if I could see the energy cell holes and 4 of them were plugged so I pulled the caps and they were clear full of carbon. I cleaned them up with a pic and had to drill the carbon out of the hole. Is that going to be sufficient or do I need to do something else? I had to pull 1 out to punch out a Injector tip that broke off. |
Replies:
Posted By: Jess
Date Posted: 12 Jul 2026 at 2:56pm
 
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Posted By: Jess
Date Posted: 12 Jul 2026 at 2:59pm
  
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Posted By: Jess
Date Posted: 14 Jul 2026 at 10:30pm
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Nobody has any advice |
Posted By: 55allis
Date Posted: 14 Jul 2026 at 11:20pm
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You could send off to a head shop and have them boil it and while it’s there have them pressure check it. ------------- 1955 AC WD45 diesel with D262 repower, 1949 AC WD, 1963 A-C D17 series 3, several Allis garden tractors 
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Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 15 Jul 2026 at 8:09am
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I have a YouTube video of energy cell repair on my neighbors D19 a year a or 2 ago. It was a good learning experience. My suggestion is to watch it so you can see how to remove the cell to clean and inspect for damage. It’s not difficult but care is required so you don’t damage the cell. With the amount of carbon build up I would suggest removing them to clean. I would not use a pic. They are expensive to replace but are still available from AGCO. The cap must seal against the cell to prevent leakage which was his problem. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: HudCo
Date Posted: 15 Jul 2026 at 9:33am
| for sure the pump and injectors need to be done . the rockers are probley wore out and need to be ground so that the lash can be adiusted proper , how many cylinders are useing coolant ? . if the head isnt off allready and get those things done so all the cylinders are doing their work that will probley make enought presureses to make it it use coolant or create crankcase blow by |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 15 Jul 2026 at 9:46am
| My opinion: If this is a tractor you expect to make $$$$ with, stop the project right now. It isn't worth the $$$$$ it's going to take to install a better cylinder head, injectors and OH the injection pump. |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 15 Jul 2026 at 12:07pm
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They are an expensive engine to rebuild for sure. They have good torque and are fun to run as the Buda sound is unique. Those that have these should know to always let them warm up before putting them to work and cool down a few minutes before you shut them off. But then again that is common practice for every tractor I have. I would say the pump and injectors need an inspection and most likely a rebuild to get it back to factory specs. Something is obviously wrong for this amount of carbon buildup to happen. Ed rebuilt my pump a few years ago. She starts easy and runs really well. I mainly use it for sickle bar work and hay raking. Also occasionally run our square baler. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |