D17 front axle
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=211607
Printed Date: 18 Sep 2026 at 10:06am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: D17 front axle
Posted By: Dan73
Subject: D17 front axle
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2026 at 8:06pm
Ok I have a stupid question. I hit a fox hole today and managed to sheer off the key that attached the tyrod arm to the axle shaft. I don't know the right terms for those parts. But I pulled the snap ring off and can't get the pin to drive out of the arm can't budge it at all. It is sitting on a hill in a hay field. So I really didn't want to heat things up with torches there. I wanted to remove the entire adjustable arm for that wheel but I couldn't see how to pull the center stud that slides in the slot. I thought like the outter one it would be a square head bolt that aligned with a opening somewhere but there is no opening and it looks like a pressed in stud?
I don't want to break more things but it would be nice if I could pull that entire adjustable arm out and work on the broken key in a shop.
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Replies:
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2026 at 8:32pm
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The inner width adjust slot bolt is just that.....a bolt. If it hasn't been loosened in decades, you might twist it off, which you could, then deal with the broken off piece in your shop. It's probably only a grade 5 quality. Smack hard several times directly on the bolts head before trying to loosen it. An electric impact would work best. Whenever an accident like that happens, the very hard hi-pro woodruff key damages the key way in the steering arm and often ruins the key way in the vertical spindle too, making both parts JUNK. The hi-pro key isn't sheared. The keyways are damaged. The quickest and cheapest fix is to remove the snap ring and then position the steering arm back to where it should be aimed and weld it around the top making the arm and spindle one piece. Look at the other side and determine where the arm should be in relation to the tire. Get this positioning correct or your "toe-in" will be incorrect. And, you CANNOT slide the spindle down the vertical tube until you remove the steering arm first, and then remove the woodruff key !!! Then the spindle can be removed from the tube.
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Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2026 at 8:44pm
The inner width adjust slot bolt is just that.....a bolt. If it hasn't been loosened in decades, you might twist it off
DrAllis I don't know if this is a serries one only thing but the inner slot adjust has a nut with washers on the slot side facing the front of the axle. There is no opening to push a bolt out the back side of the slot so I am left with a threaded rod sticking out of the slot the threads end before it gets to the inner bar. If it is a bolt there would need to be an opening on the back side i missed to push the head through. I can look again in the morning. The welding you mentioned is how the other side has been for as long as I can remember. I do have a set of good parts I could pull off a parts D15 once this is apart.
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2026 at 8:48pm
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Well, like many other 70 year old tractors.....someone changed it to a STUD, which it isn't supposed to be. So, if you insist on removing the whole "knee" assembly you'll have to remove the stud first.
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Posted By: Dan73
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2026 at 6:05pm
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Thanks DrAllis I ended up following your advice and welding it together in the correct alignment. The other side was fixed like that before my grandfather bought it in the 60s so it should out last me...
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Posted By: Pat the Plumber CIL
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2026 at 7:17pm
Don't mean to hijack this post but my D-17 Ser IV has this done to it . I had assumed someone couldn't get the snap ring back in place and then welded around the top . But what most likely happened was someone broke the key way and welded the top to "fix" it . It works fine and will most likely be fine. I had tried with some parts guys to get the whole right side of the front axle but Series IV and III are hard to come by.
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You only need to know 3 things to be a plumber;Crap rolls down hill,Hot is on the left and Don't bite your fingernails
1964 D-17 SIV 3 Pt.WF,1964 D-15 Ser II 3pt.WF ,1960 D-17 SI NF,1956 WD 45 WF.
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