In general folks on the internet seem to be saying they are decent tractors, just watch out if the Multipower has issues.

Looks like it will need anywhere between $1200-$3000 depending on if it needs just tires or everything, so it would have to be cheap. Anybody on here have any experience with this model? Looks like there are some parts still available from AGCO and if diesel I presume I could still get Perkins parts.

Live PTO uses a two-stage clutch.  Traction/transmission clutch disengages about halfway of pedal travel, the PTO disengages and engages in the second half of the pedal travel.  This PTO had ground speed or engine speed options based on control handle position.  That would be the PTO, Tbone95 described.

hooked to a manure dump wagon when I worked at a large pig farm.The old thing ran in the heat of summer and through many stretches of 40 below.5 miles there and back 3 times a day.

    Multi power took some getting used to and most of us didn't use it so wear wasn't obvious.

     Good tractor .Cheap to run and the heater was great.

If it works out, I would mostly be using it for the loader - loading/unloading equipment, moving stuff around, etc. just in intermittent use. Not anything like a lot of dirt or manure work. It might do backup duty on some other small jobs if needed, so if the PTO and 3 point work without much trouble, great... If not, I might not spend too much effort trying to fix them.

  I agree with tbran on the complexity of the MF hydraulic system.  MF means more than Massey Ferguson for a reason.

  My experience with getting parts for MF has been terrible on good days. AS MF is a "World" tractor, even the dealer can't get the right parts when the serial number of the tractor and engine are known.  The Perkins is a good engine used worldwide. 

  Then there is the buyer beware factor of a used loader tractor of any color. Unless it has just had a new clutch, it will probably need one soon. And Reverse and the corresponding forward gear are most likely well worn.

 

The engine for the MF165 was Perkins AD4.203 with 17.5:1 compression. It would start anytime without block heater but we did usually use the heater if possible. 

It may all be perspective... I grew up with a narrow front WD with no power steering and a WD9 loader!

Also came to find out later in life that one of the front tires was an inch wider than the other, so the narrower/shorter tire wasn't touching the ground much if ever. Man that thing is fun to turn with a load in the bucket.

I am hoping to take a look at the 165 next week and learn more about the rim/tire situation and what options it has.

Would you say the bare bones 165 is actually a worse loader tractor than a bare bones WD?

I am not an AC wheel tractor guy, but guessing WD does not have power steering, unless it is a add on. Which would make me want the MF as I think power steering was common by there time. As my current loader is on a Yanmar/JD 1250. No reverser, but good power steering and 4x4 front wheels. The first loader I ever drove that used the tractor hydraulics which thankfully are live. The no reverser is not that much of a issue for me. With all of the loaders I talked of here you could get the rear wheels off the ground and that is the limiting factor in what you can lift.   

One rear rim has completely disintegrated and the tire is shot. The other has a couple of thin spots in the middle of it but could certainly be used for the time being and fairly easily repaired someday. The other rear tire is still up but pretty cracked.

Definitely needs some time and money put into it. He said he is never going to mess with it again, needs it gone, and to make an offer. I will try to come up with something that is fair considering the cost of the rim/tire and getting the engine going again.

But... Gotta get it running first before I think about any of that.

Thanks to everyone for the advice and thoughts.

True. For loading and unloading that is a good point... It should be fine even if the pilot doesn't fit or is too small.

Figured someone on here has probably stolen MF wheels for their AC, or vice-versa, and may know for sure...

ac-mike wrote: My experience with trying to put MF wheels on a WD 45 was that the lug bolts are a different size...

Hmmm... if the MF bolts are bigger it may not be possible to mount WD45 wheels even for transport

Thanks for calling that to my attention. I looked at the AGCO parts catalog and those are interesting... piloted (?) lug nuts. Not sure what the correct name is. It says the studs are 5/8 UNF... The WD wheels I have appear to be 5/8" holes, and use 9/16" lug bolts, so I wonder if it would just barely work if I get some normal tapered lug nuts and don't use the piloted MF ones. I guess things would have to be perfectly lined up. Probably shouldn't count on this plan as I think more about it. I may be just winching it up onto the trailer on the wheel hub.

Long story short I believe you would need to swap wheel centers between AC and MF. That probably explains the set of AC centers the seller had that he got with it when he bought the tractor... The guy he bought from probably found a set of complete wheels/tires from an AC tractor and then put the rims/tires on the MF, and had the centers leftover. Hopefully that helps some MF/AC guys in the future if they find this thread.

I would get the right rims and keep the cast centers they mount on.

This is 9A227731. I was confused because all of the sources online currently show that the first 265 was 9A202190 in 1974, but your info indicates this is a case where the internet is wrong. This would make a lot more sense if mine were a very late 165.

Where did you find the more accurate SN info? The MF manuals I got with the tractor were probably printed before the 265 came out so they don't have that info.

I will definitely be keeping those heavy cast centers on it.

Back in high school I worked for a guy that had a MF 235 with that 2-stage clutch. That's the only tractor I've ever run with that setup and I didn't do any PTO work with it, so thanks for the heads-up. I'm not sure I would do much PTO work with this tractor either but who knows. Maybe I'll pick up a 3 point brush mower and then the clutch is probably less of an issue, maybe actually a help if it doesn't backdrive the tractor wheels. Since they are able to be powered separately I believe it shouldn't have that issue.

All the slopes on my land are pretty gradual, but if I were to go a couple miles down the road either direction to help a neighbor, they get pretty steep. Thanks for the heads-up!

Multipower will free wheel (no engine hold back) in low.  High will hold back; you learn to get into high multi-power heading down hill.  Headed up hill in high if you push the clutch, it will not roll back.  Shifting into Low multi-power will generally allow for easier shifting of gears.

Proper clutch adjustment is a major factor with two stage clutches.  That means linkage/pedal adjustment and the release bolts of the second (PTO) stage pressure plate release bolts adjustment.