finally building the D17

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   I've finally got to where i can start building my D17 puller and i wanted to ask again what the thoughts would be on the general idea.M code engine, bored to 4.375 w/ case 1150 sleeves and pistons
grinding the crank to 2" (half because the crank i have had a spun bearing, half for the stroke)
i haven't het figured what i need for the connecting rods as they're going to need to be custom with the 1.5" piston pin and 2" crank journal- ideally id like to get as close to the head as i can, id like to achieve 12-14:1.
I'm planning on larger valves but on not yet sure how much oversized i can go.
i already have a tall head for better ignition
i haven't yet figured out my cam but im planning on working the gov to get 2k rpm and id like peak power between 1600 and 2k
im working on getting the finals and axles out of a 180. they will need some work to fit in a d17 but that work can all be done in house

where does everyone think im lacking or need to do more research on. 

a question to those who have bored one of these engines. 
what kind of issues do you run into with the sleeves already being past the main bearings? i was looking at mine and its cast into the block to have room for the sleeves to already be recessed into the sides of the block on the far sides of cylinder 1 and 2.

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D17Dave Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 21 Oct 2026 Location: oh Points: 2	Post Options Post Reply Quote D17Dave Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: finally building the D17 Posted: 21 Oct 2026 at 9:48pm
	I've finally got to where i can start building my D17 puller and i wanted to ask again what the thoughts would be on the general idea. M code engine, bored to 4.375 w/ case 1150 sleeves and pistons grinding the crank to 2" (half because the crank i have had a spun bearing, half for the stroke) i haven't het figured what i need for the connecting rods as they're going to need to be custom with the 1.5" piston pin and 2" crank journal- ideally id like to get as close to the head as i can, id like to achieve 12-14:1. I'm planning on larger valves but on not yet sure how much oversized i can go. i already have a tall head for better ignition i haven't yet figured out my cam but im planning on working the gov to get 2k rpm and id like peak power between 1600 and 2k im working on getting the finals and axles out of a 180. they will need some work to fit in a d17 but that work can all be done in house where does everyone think im lacking or need to do more research on. a question to those who have bored one of these engines. what kind of issues do you run into with the sleeves already being past the main bearings? i was looking at mine and its cast into the block to have room for the sleeves to already be recessed into the sides of the block on the far sides of cylinder 1 and 2.

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DrAllis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 23645	Post Options Post Reply Quote DrAllis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Yesterday at 8:46am
	I always used straight sleeve material .125" thick and placed a .025" step at the bottom of the block and sleeve to hold the sleeves up. My machine shop guy always bored the block a little off center on the sleeve bores to make things fit better strength wise. I went with 4.630" finished bore. My pistons were custom made by Ross and used .990" tool steel pins the same as a nitro burner drag car used. The build cost of custom pistons is quite affordable and that way I had the "Power Crater" bowl. Custom pistons allowed me to use a stock connecting rod of my choice and get the compression distance exactly where I wanted to be...no compromise. I always made a girdle plate for the center main bearing cap. Why are you using 175/180/185 final drives ??? Edited by DrAllis - Yesterday at 9:28am

DrAllis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 23645	Post Options Post Reply Quote DrAllis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 43 minutes ago at 8:33am
	You asked for opinions and advice on your build. I pulled a D-17 for 40+ years, so I have quite a few things on my mind. I remember things that worked well and things that maybe didn't work out so well. I have no idea what type or class of pulling you are delving into. I assume "antique" pulling ?? with limited top RPM's ?? Anyway, it's your project and you can certainly do as you want. But, there is no reason whatsoever to be thinking 175/180/185 final drives are necessary. My tractor was nearly 400 cubes and was over 100 HP and never had a final drive failure in 40 years. So, go ahead and use the final drives you are talking about, but they aren't needed. Your choice of piston and sleeve leaves a lot to be desired in my opinion. Why such a heavy diesel piston with an 1 1/2" pin?? and then I'm assuming trying to use the mating JI Case sleeve to go with it ?? OEM sleeves like that will be too long and honestly waaaay too thick for what you're trying to achieve. Thin sleeves allow for a larger bore and can leave the block structure stronger. Automotive type pistons and pins are lighter weight. You will have difficulty coming up with any conn rod to work with a 2 inch crank journal and 1 1/2" pin. Also, you will probably never get your compression where you want it to be the way you're going about it. There would be nothing more discouraging than spending all that $$$$ and finding out you only have 150 psi of compression instead of 300 psi, which is where you want to be. Use D17/D19 diesel rods and custom make a piston to get your compression distance where you need it to be. Custom built pistons from Ross would be a far better investment than custom built connecting rods that are 2 inch x 1 1/2" and heavy. Good luck with your build.