White smoke

"Tractor is hard to start and smokes like hell".  So let's establish a few things here to help in your diagnosis. ALL 6080's start HARD on a COLD START. This means after sitting overnite and the engine is stone cold in the morning, that first start-up for the day will be the most difficult. Depending on ambient temperatures, the start-up may require a manifold heater, a plugged in engine block heater or a sniff of starting fluid (ether). If the ambient temp is 60 degrees or higher, it should start unaided from these outside helpers. Once the engine has fired and run until warmed up, it can be shut down and restarted easily the rest of the day. Does this sounds like your tractor?? because this is normal !!!    Retarding the injection pump timing to 16 degrees BTDC will help with the cold-start issue. Pulling the pump gear and rotating the engine one full turn will get you into great big trouble, so DON"T even think about doing that. An old thermostat that doesn't allow the engine to fully warm up to 180 degrees will give you white smoke.  Injectors installed backwards will make white smoke if it has the style that can be installed either way. And far too much idling and piddling around at slow engine speeds will too. That is an engine that likes 2000 RPM or more all the time when in use. So, how it is ??? Normal ?? or not normal ??

Edited by DrAllis - 07 Dec 2024 at 6:40pm

My bet is the injectors are installed backwards. The return bolt needs to be towards the valve cover, many people install them wrong because the return bolts are easier to get to when put towards the exhaust manifold, but the injectors will be spraying wrong then. Happen a lot more than you'd think!. Other thing is try adjusting the timing one way or the other and see if it helps. The internal timing marks in the pumps I find can be off several degrees. Balancer could also have slipped, so marks on it would be wrong. If you had it timed 180* out now, it would not have enough power to do any work, and would be slobbering so much it would end up with fuel in the oil. Was it at 18* before it was removed several years ago? White smoke usually means late timing btw. 

Edited by injpumpEd - 08 Dec 2024 at 1:25pm

I'd advance the timing to start with, it is sounding like late injection from what I've read so far. 

I defer to the good doctor on this matter! Every diesel I've ever worked on has "liked" more timing but if anyone knows it's going to be DrAllis.  

Dr is right, except I feel this particular tractor is timed way late for some reason. Mark on pulley wrong, mark in pump wrong? who knows but the white smoke and I bet the smell burns your nose, is late timing. Something is off here. Did it run right before you pulled it off years ago? It's crazy how many pumps come in my shop with the internal mark in the wrong place. Shops are getting sloppy lol!

when things wear out slowly a guy might not know what he is really missing in power and noises because a guy gets used to it 

Ok Dr.allis,I'll go with the 16*btdc. Do I align the pump marks,pull the gear and rotate the engine till I'm back on #16* btdc then install gear? As far as power goes there really is no big loss of power,however I can tell there is no 93hp there.
Before pump was rebuilt engine ran like a top,no smoke,took some rotations before starting. The smell of fuel is prominent now but no leaks. Sound of the engine is also different..We don't use this tractor like we use to and I'm the only 1 who turns wrenches on it, so I'd like to keep it up to par best I can.. Thanks !!

Something has changed since the pump was overhauled. Re-check timing to verify where it actually is. Now, I do NOT think you are at 18 degrees BTDC. You are somewhere else. Make sure you aren't at 18 degrees ATDC !!

Not easily on the engine. Thinking back, it appears he may have pulled the injection pump driveshaft out the front of the engine?? when R & R ing the pump?? Absolutely no need to do that (remove the starter to gain more room to work) and quite possibly he may be a tooth off in timing, BUT the timing marks in the pump window are still there. The crank pulley cannot shift as it isn't a rubber style.

The only reason to slide shaft and gear ahead to jump teeth is to get it to where you are within the adjustment range of the slots. I've had to jump them a tooth to fix a previous erroneous installation. Move the pump housing on the slots while engine is off, and see how it affects it. No real need to even take window off pump at this point. Good point Dr brought up about 18 after, not sure there's that many marks but the symptoms kinda do indicate something along those lines. Pump and Crank turn clockwise as viewed from the front of the tractor. Where was the pump rebuilt? Some places have great reputations, some have reputation for making huge mistakes lmao!

Edited by injpumpEd - 09 Dec 2024 at 8:00am