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We’re getting air in our hot water |
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Thad in AR. ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Arkansas Points: 9595 |
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When I turn on the hot water as soon as it starts to get warm it starts spitting air.
Also we have very little capacity. Water heater is a Rheem from Home Depot. Electric 40 gallon that has never had much capacity and I’ve never liked it. Had to break off safety tabs and turn it up higher when it was new. Good hot water right after a recovery but a few hours later hot water capicity would go way down. Should I try to fix this or replace? It’s around 6 years old. Well water. Looking at a Richmond at Menards |
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steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 85261 |
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well water can contain some gases that when HEATED will seperate from the water and appear to be "AIR" .... Also when you crank up the heat , the water approaches the boiling point of the water and that will also tend to make AIR in the water.... A 40 gallon tank should give you a lot of hot water. It does take an electric heater more time to recover than a gas heater.
My first guess would be an old heater full of corrosion due to well water.. Since yours started when NEW, i would guess it has a problem.. "MOST" electric heaters of that size have TWO heating elements.. Possibly one is broke and the other is doing all the work.. You may want to lift a wire off each element and check continuity thru the element... and it may be time for a new heater.. 6 years is not a lot, but depending on the quality of the well water, its a thought.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 85261 |
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·
Upper
and Lower Thermostats: Electric water heaters
usually have two thermostats, one for the upper heating element and one for the
lower heating element. ·
Heating Element Activation: The upper thermostat
controls the upper element, which heats the water at the top of the
tank. Once the top water reaches the desired temperature, the upper
thermostat switches power to the lower element, heating the rest of the
water. ·
Safety: The thermostat also plays a safety role, preventing
overheating by cutting off power to the heating element when the water reaches
the set temperature or if a temperature-pressure relief valve is triggered Edited by steve(ill) - 08 Apr 2025 at 8:18am |
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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plummerscarin ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 22 Jun 2015 Location: ia Points: 3726 |
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Richmond is a Menards label for Rheem
I’ve never installed anything less than 50 gallon in electric due to the recovery rate. Unless space was a limiting factor. Since you turned up the one you have now it may not have large enough to keep up with your demand or maybe what Steve said about heating elements having a problem. I don’t have an explanation about the spitting air |
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Pat the Plumber CIL ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Springfield,Il Points: 4869 |
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Air in hot water is usually caused by mineral build up on heating elements in electric water heaters. When elements are clean and new the water surrounding the elements keep them from getting "too" hot . After minerals coat the elements the elements get hotter and hotter, a little water seeps by minerals and touch hot metal and now you have steam.
You can change elements, upper and lower. Might as well change thermostats as well. Electric water heaters come set low usually around 120 degrees. Turn them up to 140 and you will get much better performance. Careful of scalding, mainly small children and elderly are at risk. |
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You only need to know 3 things to be a plumber;Crap rolls down hill,Hot is on the left and Don't bite your fingernails
1964 D-17 SIV 3 Pt.WF,1964 D-15 Ser II 3pt.WF ,1960 D-17 SI NF,1956 WD 45 WF. |
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Pat the Plumber CIL ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Springfield,Il Points: 4869 |
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When you go to replace the lower element and if you find the bottom part full of mineral build up, Chuck it and get a new one, 50 gallon like Aaron suggested.
Edited by Pat the Plumber CIL - 08 Apr 2025 at 6:06pm |
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You only need to know 3 things to be a plumber;Crap rolls down hill,Hot is on the left and Don't bite your fingernails
1964 D-17 SIV 3 Pt.WF,1964 D-15 Ser II 3pt.WF ,1960 D-17 SI NF,1956 WD 45 WF. |
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Gary ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Peterborough,On Points: 5852 |
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I had a similar problem back in 2002 when I had a New House built. Turned out to be a gas (I believe it was Methane) in the water. The only solution was to pump the Well Water in to a large Tank vented to the Outdoors. Then the House System was connected to this Vented Tank at a bottom nipple and plumbed to the typical Pressure Tank System. The Gas in the Well Water would rise to the surface and vent to the Outdoors. Problem solved. G |
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Les Kerf ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 08 May 2020 Location: Idaho Points: 1033 |
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Wow! I learned something today
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SteveM C/IL ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Shelbyville IL Points: 8455 |
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Don't light a cigarette while walking by the vent.....
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DiyDave ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gambrills, MD Points: 53179 |
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Or when you're on the crapper...
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Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need!
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Thad in AR. ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Arkansas Points: 9595 |
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They have tune up kits at Lowe’s
2 elements and 2 thermostats. I think I’ll open it up Saturday morning and make my decision after that. Should I decide to replace the parts, should I also replace the anode? Edited by Thad in AR. - 09 Apr 2025 at 6:54pm |
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Pat the Plumber CIL ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Springfield,Il Points: 4869 |
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If you can get it out , yes
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You only need to know 3 things to be a plumber;Crap rolls down hill,Hot is on the left and Don't bite your fingernails
1964 D-17 SIV 3 Pt.WF,1964 D-15 Ser II 3pt.WF ,1960 D-17 SI NF,1956 WD 45 WF. |
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Allis dave ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 10 May 2012 Location: Northern IN Points: 2970 |
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I cut the anode out of my new water heater when installing. They make the water stinky.
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steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 85261 |
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stink is the reaction of the anode with certain well water contaminants...
--------- The Right Way to Fix A Smelly Water HeaterThe tried and true way to remove the “rotten eggs smell” from your hot water tank is to replace your water heater’s anode rod with a zinc-aluminum rod. While the aluminum will fight against corrosion, the zinc will combat the reaction that creates the rotten egg smell. |
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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jaybmiller ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 24320 |
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hmm.. what's the cost of 2 elements, 2 stats, anode VS a new water heater ? Depending on age and water hardness might be cheaper/better ? to get a new unit ?? If you do buy parts to fix, get a box of bandaids !
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
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Thad in AR. ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Arkansas Points: 9595 |
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I’m giving this much thought. I’ll look it over well before I throw parts at it. We do have smelly water. A carbon filter has cured it. |
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DaveKamp ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Apr 2010 Location: LeClaire, Ia Points: 5938 |
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Removing the anode means something ELSE becomes an anode... and usually the result is rather costly. If removing the anode makes the stinky go away, you have a problem elsewhere. Anode type is one of those problems (water chemistry)... presence of certain types of bacteria (usually harmless, but smelly), a hint of sulphur or other subterranian gases entrained in the water table. A venting accumulator tank and a carbon filter are the two most cost-effective solutions.
Edited by DaveKamp - 10 Apr 2025 at 12:00pm |
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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Coke-in-MN ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Afton MN Points: 41815 |
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Found a lot of the Anode rods corroded to point they either leaked or fell apart into tank .
When they do - incoming cold water mixes at top or heater with present hot water rather than sinking to bottom of tank to be heated then rise . So when you first draw hot water it's hot . then as a longer draw the cold mixes with water at top and you run out of hot water . Next look at installing a small bladder tank on system to collect the expanding air and water above the tank - this will allow air to be captured in this tank and slowly released as system pressure drops . The dip tube (anode) has a small bleed hole drilled into it to allow some water passage into top of tank and allow air to escape from top of tank . Most new dip tubes are thin wall PVC material and not reacting with water but do have the drilled hole in them . Edited by Coke-in-MN - 10 Apr 2025 at 4:50pm |
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Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something.
"Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
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Gary ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Peterborough,On Points: 5852 |
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Thad Your original Post was about getting air in your Hot Water, but that concern seems to have fallen by the wayside, and you are now just addressing the Hot Water Heater. G |
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Thad in AR. ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Arkansas Points: 9595 |
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I believe the air is caused by corrosion and buildup on the heating elements. Pat mentioned it as did our plumber at work. |
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Thad in AR. ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Arkansas Points: 9595 |
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I removed the covers this morning to take pics of the thermostats and elements.
Just a small bit of condensation near the lower element/ t-stat. I see that I never did turn up the bottom t-stat only the top one. Possibly could have been happier with this for all these years. Are these parts universal or do I need Rheem parts? |
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WF owner ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 May 2013 Location: Bombay NY Points: 4872 |
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Just curious. Is this something that has been happening for a long time or is it getting worse as the water heater gets older?
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jaybmiller ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 24320 |
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re: smelly water Is the COLD water also 'smelly' ? Id so that probably indicates Sulfur in the well. 2 treatments. 1, pump air down the well to a diffuser / bubbler and 2, chlorinator.
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
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plummerscarin ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 22 Jun 2015 Location: ia Points: 3726 |
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Heating elements universal. Thermostats can vary. Take photos to compare. I say this because when I changed out Thermostats on my AO Smith the plastic safety covers didn't fit the new stats
Can't recall I've ever seen condensation built up on water heater. How old is this? Oh, 6 years. So likely just out of its tank warranty Edited by plummerscarin - 11 Apr 2025 at 7:22am |
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Pat the Plumber CIL ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Springfield,Il Points: 4869 |
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Thad never said anything about smelly hot water. Yes for the most part everything is universal in a Rheem water heater. I just replaced thermostats and elements in a water heater that the lower thermostat was never turned up . The top one is doing all the working only keeping the top of the water heater hot. After replacing I turned both thermostats up to the same temp . Customer called a few days later and claimed they never had so much hot water,even when it was new . Government doesn't want anyone getting scalded so Manufacturers set thermostats way too low. Any issues Thad PM me and I can help.
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You only need to know 3 things to be a plumber;Crap rolls down hill,Hot is on the left and Don't bite your fingernails
1964 D-17 SIV 3 Pt.WF,1964 D-15 Ser II 3pt.WF ,1960 D-17 SI NF,1956 WD 45 WF. |
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scott ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: michigan Points: 2681 |
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Tape an old curved section of heater hose to your shop vac and vacuum the crud out of the tank before you put the new elements in.
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SteveM C/IL ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Shelbyville IL Points: 8455 |
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Dad had a 80gal Rheem electric hooked in with goethermal which provided "free" hot water. Tank was plastic. Replace several lower elements over the years. It finally developed a leak around the upper element tube that went into tank after 24 years. Longest living water heater I've seen.
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Thad in AR. ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Arkansas Points: 9595 |
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Had a concrete truck cancel on us today so I got off work early.
Went to the plumbing store to see what they had on hand. After talking to a plumber in the store, he told me to change just the elements and see if it works. I came home and drained the tank and started cleaning. I got it vacuumed out as good as I could, then shined a light around in each hole to see what I could see. One element looked very good and the other looked terrible. Changed both, made sure both thermostats were turned up and give it a go. Hottest and most hot water we ever got out of this water heater. Don’t know how long it will last but it seems good for now and no spitting air. |
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FloydKS ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: S E Kansas Points: 8325 |
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congratulations are in order... ... ...for the moment, as you suggest.
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Holding a grudge is like taking poison and expecting the other person to die
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steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 85261 |
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yep... its a miracle ! they do happen !
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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