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WD45 with 433I runs rough smokes bad cold???

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pirlbeck View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pirlbeck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Apr 2018 at 8:53am
Originally posted by injpumpEd injpumpEd wrote:

You'd be surprised how many pump timing marks I've seen put in the wrong place. If this pump has been turned up much above stock, that will affect the timing of the Roosa pump also. What I tell my customers, ask the engine what it wants for timing. If it runs and starts better at 23, or even 24 or 25, then that's where I'd put it. The engine will run best at the proper timing, just setting to a spec isn't always the best spot. Like I said above, the timing mark in the pump could be off several degrees. 

I have had other engines that I have had to deviate from the factory spec to get to run correctly. I am always a little hesitant to advance pump timing very much from the stock setting as I have seen piston failure as a result of too much static timing advance.
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injpumpEd View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote injpumpEd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Apr 2018 at 11:17am
This pump should have a "push-pull" advance trimmer screw, so that means you'd need to run it IN to get more advance movement earlier. 
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pirlbeck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Apr 2018 at 12:41pm
Originally posted by injpumpEd injpumpEd wrote:

This pump should have a "push-pull" advance trimmer screw, so that means you'd need to run it IN to get more advance movement earlier. 

 
Ops......I thought you needed to turn them out for quicker advance. I will play with it again when I get the injectors back in it as I don't think it starts as well set at 23 degrees. 

Thanks for the help!


Edited by pirlbeck - 04 Apr 2018 at 12:42pm
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SteveM C/IL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Apr 2018 at 1:49pm
does the 433 have the rubber ring in balancer? Ya know a lot were slipped on 301's throwing timing marks off.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pirlbeck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Apr 2018 at 2:25pm
Originally posted by SteveM C/IL SteveM C/IL wrote:

does the 433 have the rubber ring in balancer? Ya know a lot were slipped on 301's throwing timing marks off.

From looking at it I am pretty sure it is solid......no rubber at all that I can see.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tbran Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Apr 2018 at 2:26pm
guys as stated before - the spitting and slobbering when cold is the nature of the beast and made even worse w/o a muffler as in a 6080. Ruff idle is or probably is the elastocast rubber ring on the weight retaining bracket.
Almost every engine with 1000 hours or more does this that I have seen - the 6080's down to the 2200 in fork lifts. . Now this issue should go away after a minute or two after the throttle is cracked and boost is obtained a couple of times. If it still idles rough it is the rubber washer afore mentioned.   
When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pirlbeck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 2018 at 7:23am
Originally posted by tbran tbran wrote:

guys as stated before - the spitting and slobbering when cold is the nature of the beast and made even worse w/o a muffler as in a 6080. Ruff idle is or probably is the elastocast rubber ring on the weight retaining bracket.
Almost every engine with 1000 hours or more does this that I have seen - the 6080's down to the 2200 in fork lifts. . Now this issue should go away after a minute or two after the throttle is cracked and boost is obtained a couple of times. If it still idles rough it is the rubber washer afore mentioned.   

Injection pump was recently rebuild so I don't think that is the problem. As far as being the "nature of the beast" the way this thing runs when the static timing is set to the factory spec of 18 degress is not normal. At part throttle it misses, slobbers and smokes bad and it runs like this regardless of how long it has been running.


Edited by pirlbeck - 05 Apr 2018 at 7:24am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 2018 at 3:34pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 2018 at 4:03pm
just because the pump was "recently rebuit",I wouldn't rule it out especially if you don't know the reputation of the rebuilder.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tbran Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Apr 2018 at 3:38pm
The only thing that will cause that is erratic timing assuming the engine is ok (valves, setting, injectors and air filters). Also  I would never touch the advance trimmer w/o a timing needle inserted. 
The other thing to check is the turbo - check the intake manifold and intercooler for oil contamination. Droplets of oil will not burn well at low rpm. As the boost increases so does the temp and the back pressure on the turbine shaft on the compressor sided. Also, an injector nozzle dribble will also complicate matters.   As stated previously, always verify TDC on the crank pulley and the timing mark on the fuel pump .    Trust but verify. 


Edited by tbran - 06 Apr 2018 at 3:41pm
When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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