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Osage_Orange 
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: SW MO
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 Topic: WD valve clatter
Posted: 23 May 2010 at 8:08pm |
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The valve train on my WD has become noisy. Valves properly adjusted. Put in 50W oil. Valves oiling properly. Still noisy. Rocker arm shaft not excessively worn. Is it correct to assume the valve guides are worn and causing the noise? Will it hurt anything to run it this way? Brush hogging season coming up and I would like to wait until fall to fix it.
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Why is there never time to do it right the first time, but always time to go back and fix it?
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Prairie City Ia
Points: 10508
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Posted: 23 May 2010 at 8:24pm |
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Better check the lash again. Loose guides don't make noise. Check for bent push rods.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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mlpankey
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Vols country
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Posted: 23 May 2010 at 8:26pm |
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Do you care to take time to tell how you properly adjusted them.
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Osage_Orange
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Posted: 23 May 2010 at 9:38pm |
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Removed spark plugs. Turned each cyl to TDC with hand crank. Set clearance at 0.014" cold. Replaced plugs, ran engine until it reached operating temp.....160 deg. Removed spark plugs. Set clearance at 0.012". Blocked air flow from fan with cardboard. Ran engine. Stuck feeler gauge between each valve and rocker. Snug feeling when moving feeler gauge. All suggestions/comments appreciated............O_O.
Edited by Osage_Orange - 23 May 2010 at 9:40pm
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Why is there never time to do it right the first time, but always time to go back and fix it?
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mlpankey
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Location: Vols country
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Posted: 24 May 2010 at 6:40am |
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[QUOTE=Osage_Orange]Removed spark plugs. Turned each cyl to TDC with hand crank. Set clearance at 0.014" cold. Replaced plugs, ran engine until it reached operating temp.....160 deg. Removed spark plugs. Set clearance at 0.012". Blocked air flow from fan with cardboard. Ran engine. Stuck feeler gauge between each valve and rocker. Snug feeling when moving feeler gauge. All suggestions/comments quote oo Thats what i figured the correct way to set valves is to adjust the intake valve as its exhaust valve just starts downward to open then you adjust the exhaust valve with the intake valve all the way down just starting upward to close. That ensures your on the heel off the cam everytime.
Edited by mlpankey - 24 May 2010 at 7:39am
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Osage_Orange
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Posted: 24 May 2010 at 7:20am |
Thanks ml. I'll follow up & let you know how it worked out..........O_O
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Why is there never time to do it right the first time, but always time to go back and fix it?
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mlpankey
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Posted: 24 May 2010 at 7:38am |
 Osage_Orange wrote:
Thanks ml. I'll follow up & let you know how it worked out..........O_O |
It put my post in with your statement i dont know what the oo meant sorry about it tagging on yours . maybe me editing will help . thanks dave for the heads up.
Edited by mlpankey - 24 May 2010 at 7:39am
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Good
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Joined: 05 Apr 2010
Location: Logansport IN
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Posted: 24 May 2010 at 8:53am |
Make sure your not losing oil out the corks on each end of the rocker shaft while your in there.but sounds like you a little to loose.
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Osage_Orange
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Posted: 24 May 2010 at 9:05am |
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ml: the O_O is just my shorthand for Osage_Orange. Think I'll quit doing it....can see how it might introduce confusion.
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Why is there never time to do it right the first time, but always time to go back and fix it?
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Dick L
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Location: Edon Ohio
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Posted: 24 May 2010 at 1:36pm |
Proper way to set the valve clearance becomes an opinion thing. When the piston is at TDC on its compression stroke the cam should be ground so that you would have the widest opening between the valve and rocker arm. The cam is ground with the same distance away from the valve until you start up the valve opening lobe. The proper way to set valve clearance as I was instructed back in the 1950's by an Oliver dealer repair shop was to set with the engine running at idle. When people would tell me they set the valve clearance with out the engine running I thought for many years they didn't know what they were doing. Over the years I figured out that there is more than one way to do things correct. What you did would be correct if you were in fact on the compression stroke. What planky told you it correct also if you chose to do so.
If you look at the cam shaft when it is in your position or at what planky said you will find the same distance if the cam is not wore off in some places.
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mlpankey
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Posted: 24 May 2010 at 4:29pm |
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If you ever run into a dual pattern camshaft to my knowledge the only way to adjust is the way lunati and comp cams publishes which is the way I recommended. I do all cams this way it takes out the wondering on other peoples cams if its a single or dual pattern cam but yes single pattern cams can be done different ways .although when attempting to adjust as allis recomends doing four valves at a time with no.1 pison at tdc then plcing no.4 piston at tdc on reground pulling cams i found my lash to be all over the place . plus most automotive performance oriented tunners do it the lunati and comp published way also.
Edited by mlpankey - 24 May 2010 at 4:41pm
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Osage_Orange
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Posted: 24 May 2010 at 8:26pm |
Update:
1) found three bent pushrods. approx 0.005" to 0.007" when laid on a "known to be flat surface" and rolled. straightened and reinstalled. How does a pushrod get bent? Can I expect them to bend again?
2) re-adjusted valves by ml's method. Variance between my settings using TDC method and his were about 0.001", sometimes +, sometimes -.
3) plugs in end of rocker shaft ok, no leaks.
4) good oil flow to rocker arms & pushrods.
5) reassembled engine and brush hogged for about two hours. All ok.
Engine runs slightly quieter. Maybe I'm expecting too much. Gonna try to run it all summer and go from there. Good oil pressure (about half scale on AC gauge). If camshaft bearings were worn, wouldn't it be more of a knock like a crankshaft bearing too loose?
Thanks to all for the help.
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Why is there never time to do it right the first time, but always time to go back and fix it?
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mlpankey
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Vols country
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Posted: 24 May 2010 at 9:00pm |
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Glad you got it . Bent Push rods can be from valves tending to stick in months of non usage to improper lash even piston to valve . However usually those tractors have more than plenty piston to valve clearance .Not pushing improper lash I guess I should explain lash could be set proper but a rocker arm loosening bent one on mine once. I think you have it and can use it all season with out worry . Again nothing like satisfaction in a accomplishment .
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