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WD not running smooth |
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NH in MD
Bronze Level Joined: 09 Nov 2009 Location: Bowie MD Points: 12 |
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Posted: 22 May 2010 at 7:27pm |
Here's what I have checked so far: 1) 82-85# compression on each cylinder (wd manual says 110 is standard); 2) valves checked for proper clearance; 3) new ign. wires with mag putting out spark at each plug; carb. overhauled and then replaced with a rebuilt one that was test run on another tractor. The engine starts instantly and has good oil pressure, and it runs with no smoke or odd noises.
Would 85# compression instead of 110 cause the engine to run roughly or are there other things that I should check? Thanks. Neil |
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CTuckerNWIL
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: NW Illinois Points: 22823 |
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Not running smooth doesn't give us a lot to go on. At low idle? At high idle? Any rpm? Is the spark sharp and blue? Maybe try spaying carb cleaner around the intake manifold while it's running to check for a leak in the manifold. RPM's will normally increase if it sucks cleaner through a hole. Maybe tweak the timing while it is running. What else???? I don't know. Now you got me talkin to myself again. LOL
Will it smooth out if you choke it a little? Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 22 May 2010 at 7:53pm |
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http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
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mlpankey
Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Vols country Points: 4580 |
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burned valves or worn seats would.
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Gerald J.
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Hamilton Co, IA Points: 5636 |
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Have you adjust the carburetor to this engine? Carburetors from that vintage are not preset and need regular tuning. Running rich or lean will make for rough running.
Gerald J. |
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Osage_Orange
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: SW MO Points: 1593 |
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Compression variance is typically all cylinders should be within 10 percent of each other.....yours is low, but balanced.
If the above suggestions don't fix it, try replacing points and condenser.
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Why is there never time to do it right the first time, but always time to go back and fix it?
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NH in MD
Bronze Level Joined: 09 Nov 2009 Location: Bowie MD Points: 12 |
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Thanks for the follow up and ideas on this. Here's some more details in answer to your questions..
-Runs rough at all RPMs. -Does not help to put the choke on to try to smooth it out. -Manifolds were recently reinstalled with new gaskets and red RTV, so I don't think they leak. -Moving the Magneto back and forth in adjustment does not help. -When I pull the ign. wires out of the magneto when engine is running there seems to be a good spark. Could the person be right who mentioned burned valves or worn valve guides possibly be right? |
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DaveKamp
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Apr 2010 Location: LeClaire, Ia Points: 5816 |
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When you say it's running 'rough'... do you mean that it misfires on random cylinders? Does it drop one or two cylinders consistently? Does it pop and crackle?
One of the things I've learned about these magneto ignition systems, is that ust because it appears to have good spark, doesn't assure that it's totally good. A local feller here has his own magneto shop, and went through several of mine, all seeming to have good spark, but generally poor running result. After he went through 'em, they all run solid-as-can-be. Magnetos have ignition points and a condenser, just like battery-coil. The points need to make good contact, and to do so, they need appropriate dwell, spring pressure, clean contacts, and proper phasing with the spinning armature. THEN, they need strong enough magnetism in the frame, and finally, in order to generate a suitable firing pulse, they need a good condenser. Any ONE of these items will cause you to have an unstable spark, or a spark event insufficient for lighting off a mixture in the chamber. Last, but not least... your magneto has an impulser, which not only causes the armature to 'flip' fast on a low RPM start, it probably also retards the timing event past TDC for a safe and easy hand-start, and then... advances the spark when it's time to run. I wouldn't discount the valve question, but before digging into the head, I'd certainly yank the mag and take it to someone who really knows mags well... what you're describing sounds like either the magneto is unstable at any speed. |
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mlpankey
Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Vols country Points: 4580 |
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If it idles rough then seems to run better at high rpms and adjustments on two different carbs. have no affect . then its a burned valve.
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CTuckerNWIL
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: NW Illinois Points: 22823 |
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""-Manifolds were recently reinstalled with new gaskets and red RTV, so I don't think they leak. "
Why RTV? If the manifold is flat and the head is flat the only thing that needs to be between them is the gasket. If either surface is not flat, it should be milled before assembly or you will be fixing later. Any new assembly can leak. It don't matter to the leaking manifold that you "think" it doesn't leak and an easy check with a can of brake clean or WD40 will tell if it does.
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http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
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Ted in NE-OH
Orange Level Joined: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Austinburg OH Points: 1703 |
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Check firing order. should be 1-2-4-3. Gas cap vented?
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CA, WD, C, 3 Bs, 2 Gs, WC, I-400, 914
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