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WD narrow front

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Buckyman View Drop Down
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    Posted: 28 Jun 2019 at 4:28pm
I have an Allis WD with a narrow front that does not steer right and it seems to steer harder than my dads WD-45. By "steering right" I mean that there is a lot of play in the steering despite my attempts to tighten it down with the bolt in the front of the spindle. I also cracked open the cover on top to take a peak and look for anything that could be causing an issue and what I found was a lot of really grey slime that was less than appetizing by the smell(pictures on the way). Not sure what to do...I wanted to get a wide front end to swap in but I don't know if I can convince Dad to either let me borrow his truck or for him to go with me.
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Buckyman View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Buckyman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jun 2019 at 4:37pm
Ok maybe I'll have to scratch the pictures since the forum says that they are too big to be uploaded...
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Buckyman View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Buckyman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jun 2019 at 4:42pm
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Buckyman View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Buckyman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jun 2019 at 4:45pm
This picture is a super zoomed in close up of the gear that is turned by the worm gear and all the slimy gunk...it's the only way I could get it to upload...
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Sugarmaker View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jun 2019 at 5:00pm
Well I have never seen that before. You might wantto clean that out and start with fresh lube.  Mine have usually been dry and thats not good either.
I guess I have been through about all the parts on the front of one it could be bearings are bad. 
Yea your pictures need to be reduced in size to 640 x 480 is a good size.

Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill_MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jun 2019 at 6:36pm
Open your pictures in Paint on a windows computer and resize to 800x600 or less, then post. There is a set screw on the top gear also, clean off the grease as good as you can around the gear and get a look at how the teeth mesh and if the gear has any slop on the shaft. May just be the set screw is loose but also could be worn out.
1951 WD #78283, 1918 Case 28x50 Thresher #76738, Case Centennial B 2x16 Plow
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DaveKamp View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jun 2019 at 7:56pm
It's a little-known 'factory racing' model... they're designed to go fast, and only turn left...

LOL

Okay, so really...

Mechanical steering systems wear, and MOST of the wear occurs in the gearing where the wheels are centered straight ahead.  Why?  Because most of the operating time is spent there, and most of the steering corrections are within a quarter-turn of center.

When you get all that gooey muck cleaned out, you will PROBABLY find that the worm and sector are sloppy... but turn it to full left, or full right lock, the worm and sector fit much tighter.  There is no 'easy' fix for this, because the sector teeth and worm thread have worn away right there. 

With MOST steering systems, you can make a certain amount of adjustment somewhere, but realize that if you tighten up adjustments to take slop out in the worn areas, you'll wind up binding at the unworn areas.

I haven't done this on anything Allis, but I HAVE done it on other steering systems.  I will not advise you to do it, nor guarantee any results, or provide any warrantee... but I have done this:

Set the gears to be fairly snug at the center, and slightly bindy at the limits. 
take a toothbrush and toothpaste, and totally coat the worm and sector.  Don't use the fru-fru 'gentle' toothpaste, use the most aggressive, abrasive stuff you can find, and get it packed in there good. 

Then run it lock-to-lock 'till your arms, and your kids', and your neighbors' arms all fall off.

Then tighten them in a bit more, and do it again.

Eventually, the worm and sector will be abraded down to the point where worm-sector clearance is basically same all the way around the arc.

Clean it out really good, put it back together with proper lubricant and seals, and enjoy.

This, btw, is a tedious process.  It is MUCH easier to use on a worm-gear unit that's well-used, as you can connect it to a low speed motor, start the motor, and walk away for a day, then come back and pack it full of more toothpaste... 
Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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IBWD MIke View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IBWD MIke Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jun 2019 at 7:38am
Dave, do you think using 'lapping compound' would speed up this process? I have Fel-Pro clover compound in 6 different grits with 800 being the finest. I'm not planning on trying this any time soon just curious.
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ac fleet View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ac fleet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jun 2019 at 1:32pm
Use valve grinding compound!---even that will take a long time.
http://machinebuildersnetwork.com/
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