WC rear RC gear swap.

i am in the process of swapping the whole rear-end,itsonly 4 large bolts-then push it back,it slides right out.

the rc or the high crop is the only way to go

More engine HP is the way to go.

Benny, if you find out something like that, please post it.  I put a speed patrol rear end in mine which is real slow, makes a huge difference with little engines (like mine)  Stock is around 4.4, picker/RC is around 6.6 and this one is about 7.2.  I have loaded mine to 6500 and run low gear with 38's and done pretty well at the local track.  Don't go much more than 4500 national and thats really no place for mine...just having fun

There are a lot of advantages to using the lower ratio gears, if you go to a big motor, in non-speed limit classes, you can pull road gear which puts more power to the rear wheels by eliminating the gear train in the transmission, with a smaller engine it gives you more choices by making all three lower gears useful. Swapping the whole rear end housing is the easiest way to do it, but be advised that the RC rear end is made with smaller bull gears and axles, and the differential is a much lighter 2 pinion design, where the WC uses four pinions and the bull gears are 50% wider and the half shafts are heavier. I prefer the early (pre-39) differentials because the pinions seem hold up better even though they have fewer teeth, but you really need to watch the condition of the pinion cross in the older tractors, they are notorious for being severely worn.

So If I just use the ring and pinion have the end of the pinion milled to accept a bearing and use the wc carrier . The Rc has no cultivater kick out. Love that little lever to wait in line with. I have ti put the rc rear back together with wc ring and pinion to be a restoration project.

the sherman step-down would be an idea,im not sure how much slower it would make it.

I have got a RC rearend if you are looking for one