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Suggestions on Adding a Hydraulic Valve on a WD
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banjojelly View Drop Down
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Joined: 8 hours 55 minutes ago
Location: S. Illinois
Points: 6 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote banjojelly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Suggestions on Adding a Hydraulic Valve on a WD
    Posted: 8 hours 39 minutes ago at 11:47am
Hello. I usually frequent a different tractor related forum, but most of the tractor guys have left and it is mostly lawn and garden stuff now. 

I have a WD with a loader that I have been using for small jobs around the house for about 8 years now. The large loader tractor and Kubota skid steer that we use on the farm are only about a mile from my house, so I can grab them if I need them, but having the WD around for moving stuff is pretty handy.

My issue has become that my hydraulic lever has gotten to the point where it will no longer stay in position. I have tried pretty much everything I can do to make it stay put. It not just a creep. It either wants to be full pressure up, or drop. I am not going to waste a bunch of money rebuilding the selector assembly. The hydraulics are strong. I would like to just plumb in a spool valve and run my loader from that. I am not that familiar with the AC high pressure/ low volume system and it only needs to be a one way valve on top of that. My loader is a trip bucket. 

If anyone has ever done this before and could steer me in the right direction to do it as efficiently and cheap as possible, it would be much appreciated. 




Edited by banjojelly - 7 hours 59 minutes ago at 12:27pm
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Ray54 View Drop Down
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Points: 4546 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ray54 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 6 hours 59 minutes ago at 1:27pm
A simple no cost way to check out if the problem is the packing on the piston in the rams.  Lift the boom up and let it drop a number of times. Put your hand on the ram, if it is much warmer than surrounding metal it is, it is the ram not your control valve. If the seal is bad on the piston of the ram oil leaks past and the friction creates heat.

I also use to worry that the control valve was leaking in situations like you have.  Most times it is internal seals in the ram, and no oil is leaking to the outside.
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banjojelly View Drop Down
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Points: 6 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote banjojelly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 6 hours 48 minutes ago at 1:38pm
If you are referring to the lift cylinders on my loader as being the rams, then I know they are not the problem. I honed and re-cupped them and replaced the wiper seals when I got the tractor running. They will hold position if the engine is off. 

If you are referring to something else as being the rams, then you will have to elaborate for me. 
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DSeries4 View Drop Down
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The friction block on the lift lever is worn so the handle does not stay in position.  You can get a new friction block from Steiners or DJS.  Pretty cheap.
'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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Points: 6 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote banjojelly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 5 hours 47 minutes ago at 2:39pm
Originally posted by DSeries4 DSeries4 wrote:

The friction block on the lift lever is worn so the handle does not stay in position.  You can get a new friction block from Steiners or DJS.  Pretty cheap.


Sorry, I guess I didn't explain it very well. Even if I hold the lever in one position, it still will not stop moving. I even tried clamping the lever in place to the quadrant with vice grips but it still would either be dropping or raising. I feel like it is something further into the valving other than just the lever itself.
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Tractors hydraulic pump isn't set for "HOLD" position work. Read the decal on the side of the battery box.
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banjojelly View Drop Down
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Originally posted by DrAllis DrAllis wrote:

Tractors hydraulic pump isn't set for "HOLD" position work. Read the decal on the side of the battery box.


I dont have a battery box, let alone a decal. This is a working tractor, not a barn queen.

I guess I need to rephrase my initial question. I don't want to keep messing with the lever set up anymore.

Can anyone tell me how to add a hydraulic spool valve to a WD?

Thank you.
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HudCo View Drop Down
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you still have get the pump fuctioning correctly  to run extra valves and remotes  i have an extra valve and remotes on my wd   i still use the lever on the quadrant for the lift arms and the one factory remote but i dont run my pump preasure continus if i dont have to .     i have  a permant 5000 psi guage on the top of my pump for a referance , and i seperate the two systems with a diverter valve
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Originally posted by HudCo HudCo wrote:

you still have get the pump fuctioning correctly  to run extra valves and remotes  i have an extra valve and remotes on my wd   i still use the lever on the quadrant for the lift arms and the one factory remote but i dont run my pump preasure continus if i dont have to .     i have  a permant 5000 psi guage on the top of my pump for a referance , and i seperate the two systems with a diverter valve


So you dont just leave the pump on and let it dead head against a valve? Is this to prevent heat build up or does the pump not bypass internally at a given pressure?

I am not using the rear lift. I have a counter weight box permanently mounted on the rear anyway. I really on need to be able to run the loader.
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Ted J View Drop Down
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Points: 18824 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ted J Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 3 minutes ago at 8:23pm
Do you have a manual for the tractor?  The directions are in there for setting up the pump and the linkage.  You need to have the linkage set up for 'Hold'.
After you get this set, you'll have NO problems using it.
"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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