200 Proper Operation

Been pulling logs with the 200 cleaning up a fence line. My question is do I have to shift power director to neutral before shifting gears? I wasn't sure if I was going to tear something up so I would shift to neutral on the power director then push in clutch then shift to reverse let the clutch out and then engage the power director. Is this overkill or the proper way to operate the tractor? Or if I am not under a load can I leave the power director in low and just push the clutch pedal and shift the transmission?

Just make sure the tractor is stopped and trans have stopped moving before shifting so you dont grind the gears. Gear grinding will cause it to be a gear jumper if practice is continued.

on a 190/200 if the pd linkage is set right, you can shift the gears without pushing the clutch pedal down, just put pd in neutral. But, out of habit, most of us just use the foot clutch, and doing that the PD can be in any of it's 3 positions.

Have never heard a 190/200 could be shifted without pushing in the clutch pedal. My operators manual clearly states tractor must be at a stand still with clutch pedal depressed before selecting any gear. “Always stop the forward motion of tractor before changing from one gear to another. Never attempt to shift gears on the go as excessive gear clashing may result.” Can it be done? Yes but you may have a gear jumper some day. I prefer to avoid that.

I know you are not suppose to but like Ky.Allis I have done the same thing. I have a XT and a Vermeer 605F baler and I make 3 or 4 bales to get the oil warm then just use the power director. Been doing this since 1988 and no problems

When baling I shift from 3rd to reverse then back to 3rd. once oil is warm I just use power director. I have old baler and have to back up and turn pto off every bale. To save time I back up while tying the bale

I guess That I can join the ranks of the "bad shifters" too while round baling. I've done it hundreds of times. When I get a full bale, I'll put the PD into neutral, get the twine arms to tying while coming to a stop. After being at a dead stop, and while the bale is tying, I'll make a quick shift from 3rd (5th/6th, by the decal) to reverse, feather the PD back as to back the tractor up 8 to 10 feet. The with the tractor stopped and PD back in neutral, shift quickly back to 3rd. When the bale is done being tied, kick it out, pull PD back as to move the tractor and baler ahead far enough for the tailgate to clear the bale, PD back to neutral, drop endgate, pull PD back and make the next bale. Never touch the clutch pedal for the whole process. Take in mind that I only do this when every is warmed up good, I shift it very quickly, but not brutally, and if I am at a stop with the tractor, and the main transmission is in neutral, then I will ALWAYS use the foot clutch to put it in gear. And then only after I've stepped on the clutch and given the transmission a couple seconds to stop spinning. I've never had any gear clashing or grinding by doing this. And if you re-played this whole scenario, and stepped on the foot clutch to do each shift I described, imagine how hard that would be on the dry transmission clutch when you consider that it would also be starting the PTO , which is turning a full bale, each time you engaged the clutch. Darrel

I pull a 15’ batwing brush hog and sometimes it ends up on the 175. I have gone from 2nd to reverse and back many times. I’d hate to imaging waiting for that brush hog to stop spinning to shift. As said before it’s has to be quick. It doesn’t grind at all.

bauerd44 wrote: I watch a buddy bale with his green thing, and I can't imagine holding the foot clutch down for every bale while tying the bale.  My leg would give out after 8 or 10 bales. Dale

DougG wrote: I thought the 7000 series had an independent pto ?

injpumpEd wrote: DougG wrote: I thought the 7000 series had an independent pto ? They do. He means they no longer have a both, a foot and hand clutch so to speak.

exSW wrote: Since we're on the subject of round baling. With my 7010 Power Shift can I just down shift to neutral and stop with the brakes to finish a bale without clutching?

Yes I can see that being nice to quickly stop everything. Guess it's just different from what I'm used to that's all. 

Never operated a 100 series.....So, dumb question....Why does the shift have to be "quick"?

Tbone95 wrote: Never operated a 100 series.....So, dumb question....Why does the shift have to be "quick"?

My guess is that you'll grind gears otherwise. I just clutch per manual as needed and use the PD for hi/lo shifting and hold in neutral when needed.