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Removing 60 header
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Sandknob View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Oblong, IL
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    Posted: 19 Jan 2016 at 7:28pm
I need to remove the header on one of my 60 all crops. How do you go about removing one?
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ILGLEANER View Drop Down
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
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Points: 6448 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ILGLEANER Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan 2016 at 7:42pm
Tie it to a tree . And away you go !!!!
Education doesn't make you smart, it makes you educated.
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KY poorboy View Drop Down
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Originally posted by ILGLEANER ILGLEANER wrote:

Tie it to a tree . And away you go !!!!



LMAO!!
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Originally posted by KY poorboy KY poorboy wrote:

Originally posted by ILGLEANER ILGLEANER wrote:

Tie it to a tree . And away you go !!!!



LMAO!!
   X2!!!!
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Sandknob View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Originally posted by ILGLEANER ILGLEANER wrote:

Tie it to a tree . And away you go !!!!


Everybody is a comedian!!

I'd rather keep the rest of the machine in decent shape. Lol
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In that case you might want to spray a little PB blaster on the hinge point so it lets go a little easier.   
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Its pretty straight forward.

Disconnect the pitman from the sickle

Disconnect the lift linkage

Pull out the lower draper upper roller at the top of the header.

If I missed something guys please advise


Only gotcha I have is the pully on the roller can be a SOB to remove as
it is on a tapered shaft and can be stuck on there good. When using a gear pulley you could bend the sheaves. Take the grain tank off and you can pull it out without taking the sheave off, but I wouldn't recommend that.
If its not an All-Crop, it all crap!
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Sandknob View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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That was my one worry about that pulley. Looks like it has six bolts around it and one in center. Which one needs removed. The six, or the one in center?
Thanks
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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I have no idea ...BUT I would oil everything that 'looks' like a connection, then try tomorrow.
Waiting a day will allow the oil to 'do it's thing' and maybe someone will chime is what else needs to be done.
Just be real careful ! block things up, look 2,3 times BEFORE you yank and bust something.

Jay
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Someone put it together 60 years ago so It will come apart. But as mentioned some parts may have grown together with age.
We ever had to take one of these apart on the farm. Pulleys can be tough.
 I dont have a picture of the pulley. But sometimes you can drill a couple 3/8 holes near the hub and get some bolts/nuts through those and use them as a puller against a plate, with corresponding holes, across the end of the shaft? Just a thought. I have seen this done on Cub Cadet front PTO pulleys which are a bugger sometimes. Pulling on the outside of a thin pulley is asking for trouble.
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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combinechris View Drop Down
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Take the pulley off and pull from the hub.
35 combines and 15 forage harvesters. mostly allis combines and equipment.WTB 2 row cornhead for a 90
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Originally posted by combinechris combinechris wrote:

Take the pulley off and pull from the hub.



Looking at the illustration you cant take it off..it sits behind the hub, not in front. HOWEVER if it can be shoved back a little once disconnected perhaps enough room to clamp on to the hub
If its not an All-Crop, it all crap!
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combinechris View Drop Down
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Once you have it moved back you can pull it off otherwise remove the nut from the shaft put a pry bar behind the hub and pulley and hit the shaft after you have the shaft threads covered with a block of wood. Should pop off.
35 combines and 15 forage harvesters. mostly allis combines and equipment.WTB 2 row cornhead for a 90
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