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Tiling a Shower |
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CrestonM ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 08 Sep 2014 Location: Oklahoma Points: 8455 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 04 Sep 2018 at 10:36pm |
My great-aunt's shower needs to be retiled. The house was built in the '50s, and while it is very sound, the shower is not. The tiles are about 5" square, and the bottom few courses are so loose you can push them back into the wall if you're not careful, which is what happened to one. I'm thinking about retiling the bottom 1/4th of the shower, because that's where all the loose tiles are. What I can't figure out is behind the tiles there is nothing but a void a few inches deep. How did the builders get the tiles installed in the first place? The shower looks professional, with all the tiles even and nicely spaced, so I can't figure out how they built this. Second, how do I re-do this with nothing to stick the tiles to? There is no mortar on the back sides of the tiles (nothing to stick them to), just mortar around the edges of them. I'm pretty confused here. Anyone familiar with this?
Edited by CrestonM - 04 Sep 2018 at 10:37pm |
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Pat the Plumber CIL ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Springfield,Il Points: 4931 |
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There was something behind the tiles when they were installed. Water leaking through has softened whatever was back there and it has crumbled away. Tear out all the way to the studs where you want to replace. Install durock to fill in proper depth so new tiles will be flush with old tiles. Old tile setter I met along time ago claimed the grout should be scraped out and regrouted every 10 years. If not it will slowly fail over time. Now they claim the grout has sealer in it and lasts longer
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You only need to know 3 things to be a plumber;Crap rolls down hill,Hot is on the left and Don't bite your fingernails
1964 D-17 SIV 3 Pt.WF,1964 D-15 Ser II 3pt.WF ,1960 D-17 SI NF,1956 WD 45 WF. |
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desertjoe ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 23 Sep 2013 Location: New mexico Points: 13696 |
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Hey Creston,,ten four what ole Pat is sayin,,,,I just re-did our bathtub walls when I took out the bathtub and installed a full length shower assembly. The tile had been installed onto 1/8" paneling and like your aunties had wore away thru the years where some of the tiles were just hanging on to each other. I removed all the old tile and the paneling so I could inset some 2X6's in the outer wall studs. Had to do this as I was going to install some ADA grab bars for the Wife and didn't want them pulling out,,!!!After insetting the grab bar supports, I installed moisture retardant sheetrock and set the new tile on that. Worked out good and will be there forever,,,
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shameless dude ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 10 Apr 2017 Location: east NE Points: 13607 |
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I saw where someone built a new house and used galvanized roofing for the walls and ceiling in the shower, they also had a bathtub....a plastic horse tank! get with the times here!
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Hubert (Ga)engine7 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Jackson Cnty,GA Points: 6465 |
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Creston, X3 on what Pat is saying but I would respectfully add take out the shower base also then install the durock. After that put in a good thick one piece liner 18" up the wall and hard pack damp sand to support the floor tile and a brush on water proof membrane on the remainder of the durock. The tile has to have a solid backing if it is going to last. You need to tear out and redo the entire shower or you will be back in there patching again.
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Just an old country boy saved by the grace of God.
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Dave H ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Central IL Points: 3583 |
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Get in there and demo that mess. Be a good time to sweat some new faucets on also - hope it is copper piping.
You did not say what was under the shower so that will depend on how to make sure the base is shored up while you are at it. i have used the green board sheet rock like dj referenced without worry. I would say the studs re probably toast also. So what is underneath that shower? basement, crawl space , or slab? If it isn't a slab you gotta get under there and look what the condition is. |
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Thad in AR. ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Arkansas Points: 9654 |
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I agree 100% do not tile over drywall even the mildew resistant green or blue. It’s not waterproof nor does it claim to be. If you have to replace tile old stock and new are hard to match up on color and size. Make sure everything is dry clean and solid before you go back. |
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CrestonM ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 08 Sep 2014 Location: Oklahoma Points: 8455 |
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Thanks, guys. The house does have a crawl space under it. Yes, the studs are probably shot from water rot as well. This thing has needed work for years. Wouldn't surprise me if the subfloor is all rotten, too. This may be a winter project as it's hard for me to get there during the school year. I really enjoy projects like this where it's a learning curve and I get to develop a new skill, but that also makes it a bit difficult. This may have another problem...asbestos behind the walls. I saw it in there, and that will be interesting to deal with.
Dave...yes...it could use new faucets as well. Shameless...gee, galvanized roofing? Why am I wasting my time with tile? Lol!
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shameless dude ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 10 Apr 2017 Location: east NE Points: 13607 |
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wear a mask if/when you mess with that asbestos
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Hubert (Ga)engine7 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Jackson Cnty,GA Points: 6465 |
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And not one like Shameless is wearing but a good filter mask.
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Just an old country boy saved by the grace of God.
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Hubert (Ga)engine7 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Jackson Cnty,GA Points: 6465 |
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Or you could just hire Jay's "contractor" stepson to do the job. Jay might even pay you a little bit to get him away from that area for a while.
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Just an old country boy saved by the grace of God.
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JoeM(GA) ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Cumming,GA Points: 4815 |
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Ouch!! Why did I know this was coming!,! |
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Allis Express North Georgia
41 WC,48 UC Cane,7-G's, Ford 345C TLB |
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Stan IL&TN ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Elvis Land Points: 6730 |
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I think I would do it myself in that case.
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1957 WD45 dad's first AC
1968 one-seventy 1956 F40 Ferguson |
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jaybmiller ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 24664 |
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man I am 'SMARTING' from a previous comment , ![]() sigh, do yourself a HUGE favour...GUT THE MESS, 100%. Take pictures, save them x2...I had a list of over 100 things wrong with what was done here, and 80+ pictures but dang silly harddrive went 'south'. You NEED to start fresh,especially to get rid of mold, leaky pipes,and fix the floor..You've got time so plan ahead, buy stuff on sale and for tile use cement board ! do NOT use 'water resistant' drywall. NFG and that's being polite. Add anti water hamming stubs . oh yeah, get the hot and cold pipes running to the correct taps on the shower.... hot is supposed to be on the left.... ..need I say more ?? Jay
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
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Dusty MI ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Charlotte, Mi Points: 5059 |
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Why tile? The plastic tubs and shower surrounds are a lot likely to ever leak and there are not joints every 4" that need cleaning and or redoing every couple years.
Dusty
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917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express"
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jaybmiller ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 24664 |
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Dusty brings up a valid point . Reminds me that the ONE PIECE fibreglas tub/shower unit I installed in 1985 is STILL 100% though I should have lined the walls with ROXUL insulation(water proof, mice hate it, sound deadening). Yeah it was a good chunk of coins BUT factor in 'cement' board,SS screws,grout,adhesive,tiles and labour( OK...time...) and it might surprise you ! Jay
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
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steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 87712 |
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the "STUFF" hanging behind the wall might not be asbestos........ It might be drywall that got wet and fell apart... paper and fluff is all that's left... There was SOMETHING on the studs that the tile were glued to in the beginning... I bet it was drywall.. If you redo, get cement board and screw it on... better than green or blue drywall.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Thad in AR. ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Arkansas Points: 9654 |
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Nothing more expensive than a tile shower. If done right they will last but cleaning grout is a pain. I used to work for a builder that put a tile shower in every house. A whole lot of labor involved in one. The orange vinyl liner makes awesome Allis gas tank padding. |
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plummerscarin ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 22 Jun 2015 Location: ia Points: 3911 |
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Judging by the homes age and your description it is most likely drywall used for the tile backer and a vinyl mastic adhesive to bond the tile to the wall. Assuming 1/8" grout lines, a non-sanded grout filled the gaps between the tiles. This grout will lose its bond to the tile over time allowing water behind the tile and destroy the drywall. I'll take a wild guess that the shower drain cover says Fiat on it. If so, this may be a terrazzo base that has a metal frame around it that won't tolerate exposure to water for long before it rusts out and then allows water to get under it to damage the subfloor. At the very least, before you begin the repair work plug the drain and fill the base with water to the top of the threshold to confirm it is not leaking.
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DMiller ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Hermann, Mo Points: 33912 |
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When built the new house went the full magilla, Preformed Styrofoam and fiberglass coated shower base, Durock on the walls, sealed with mesh tape & tile mortar in the joints as well on the screw heads just like drywall just not so picky. Then added the 'Membrane' roll on coating all the way down onto liner pan, second coated in opposite direction as directions noted then hang tile. Allow the tile mortar to dry for a week then grout where again after a week go back with a good grout sealer and coat ALL the grouted joints. Will need to scrub it really clean in a year and reseal then be good for a number of years.
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