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thinking topfuel machining on 226

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wi50 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wi50 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 2012 at 5:42pm
you're right C tucker his lack keeps showing, the commando has no clue what I explaned above.
 
If any of you have an engine apart, or the oil pan off of one, take and turn the cam untill the lifter is pushed up as high as it can be.  Now take and push the lifter higher in it's lifter bore, it will go UP another .250-.300 easy, moveing away from the cam.  There is room to move a cam with .330 lift up higher in the block, or there is room to run a .600 or so lift cam in it's original location. 
 
Milling the lifter rail a bit to gain some clearance is a pretty easy task.
 
So a guy could run a billet cam, moved up in the block by .250-.300 pretty easy by offset boreing the cam bore in the block, I would make plugs and fill the bores to start with, shoot a new line up whatever distance is desired.  The main berring diameter on a stock cam is about as large as one would want to run as far as clearance getting past the sleves depending on what bore and where the sleves were positioned.  I've moved them over at times and relieved the sides a bit to gain clearance in order to be able to install the cam, but that's for some pretty big bores.  So rather than bore much oversize, I would go a bit smaller if anything.
 
 
I have one togather at 6.5" stroke with 2.00" crank pins and it's tight on the cam, but I still have quite a bit of material on the rod that could get cut away, 7" would fit with nothing more than billet rods designed right and some clearance work on the cam which would get thin, or a custom billet cam made.  At the RPM that it would operate at there wouldn't be much valve train load at all, and with just the original lifters on a billet cam with large lobes it would be verry gentle.
 
 
 
Now here's the really easy thing to do.
A rod with a 27.5 degree cap angle clears the cam at 6.5" stroke, billet connecting rod, 2.00" crankpin when put with the cap twards the cam.  Put the rod in backwards so the cap is AWAY from the cam and it clears the cam by about .250" or so and verry verry little additional clearance work is needed to the cam though a little more is required on the oil pan rails.......
 
The real story to fit a 7" stroke in the engine is that all you have to do is to put the rods in with the caps away from the cam rather than twards the cam.  It works, I know people who have done it............
 
 
 
 


Edited by wi50 - 16 Dec 2012 at 2:57pm
"see what happens when you have no practical experience doing something...... you end up playing with calculators and looking stupid on the internet"
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mlpankey View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 2012 at 6:41pm
whos running a seven inch stroke ?   wi your admitting having issues with 6.5 stroke .  its all easy from the computer desk and parts laying around on tables for pictures. wi and c you got to center up on something to bore and the middle cam bore solid would be tough without making tooling.  be alot easier just to make a cam box to go overhead cam  . at some point strokes outside oil pan rail also with main centerline left in place from oem .

Edited by mlpankey - 15 Dec 2012 at 6:48pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Unstylish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 2012 at 7:25pm
 Pank, ive got a 6.5 crank sitting under my bed (Im impressed that you remembered where i had it in a previous post) I dont know why you are so concerned about moving crank around..what rod/journal are you going to use? You should buy that head from me so you can run some more rod, cause youre gonna need it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wi50 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 2012 at 7:28pm
There's no problems with a 6 1/2 stroke.  These pictures are of a 6 1/2 inch stroke, 2.000" crankpin.  Billet rod with a 27.5 degree cap angle.  The rod clears the crank by about a quarter inch.......  going to 7" stroke would only require slight cam clearance.  There's actually a lot of material on the cam that can be removed yet which would help even more.  Though with a 7" I would change the cap angle some.
 
 
 
It's easy, if you have practical experience you would know these things.  It's not top fuel machineing.....it's only common sense.


Edited by wi50 - 16 Dec 2012 at 2:57pm
"see what happens when you have no practical experience doing something...... you end up playing with calculators and looking stupid on the internet"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Unstylish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 2012 at 7:32pm
wow, wi, even adding pics for everyones viewing pleasure. Thats a nice looking setup you have there..Pank, why dont you just buy a rotating assembly from Marty cause hes got it figured out. It would save alot of hassle. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rod B Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 2012 at 7:44pm
Wi, I got my rods today and they look awesome. I think your sig line says it all, and it's shown again here.

Pank aka the commando should try and first build a reliable engine. Or any engine at all. Would you please list your business physical adress, phone number and staff. It would be nice to know which places to stay away from for the good of the sport.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Butch(OH) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 2012 at 7:59pm
Originally posted by CTuckerNWIL CTuckerNWIL wrote:

  You lack of knowledge about working on these things just keeps shiningShocked
 
 
+1 Wink 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 2012 at 8:55pm
Originally posted by wi50 wi50 wrote:

There's no problems with a 6 1/2 stroke.  These pictures are of a 6 1/2 inch stroke, 2.000" crankpin.  Billet rod with a 45 degree cap angle.  The rod clears the crank by about a quarter inch.......  going to 7" stroke would only require slight cam clearance.  There's actually a lot of material on the cam that can be removed yet which would help even more.  Though with a 7" I would change the cap angle some.
 
 
 
It's easy, if you have practical experience you would know these things.  It's not top fuel machineing.....it's only common sense.
Can't hardly wait to hear the comments about the BAD weld job and all the gassholesLOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 2012 at 9:00pm
no way thats a 6 1/2 inch stroke and no notches in oil pan rail  and you right its full of purosity.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 2012 at 9:02pm
Originally posted by Unstylish Unstylish wrote:

wow, wi, even adding pics for everyones viewing pleasure. Thats a nice looking setup you have there..Pank, why dont you just buy a rotating assembly from Marty cause hes got it figured out. It would save alot of hassle. 
  have you sold your yet or is it still under your bed dreaming.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 2012 at 9:27pm
Originally posted by CTuckerNWIL CTuckerNWIL wrote:

Originally posted by mlpankey mlpankey wrote:

. boring the cam bores and using a larger cam journal doesnt move the centerline. one would have to reduce cam journal size and make some eccentric bushings or bearings to move centerline.

If the idea is to move the cam UP, why would you bore the bearing diameters on centerline with the original? If the idea is to move the cam up 1/4 inch, you pick up the original diameter and move .250 up before you bore it Oversize. You lack of knowledge about working on these things just keeps shiningShocked  quote why do that reduce the cam journal size and use a eccentic bushing or bearing to move it up  in the original bore. your lack of knowledge is shining through. C i am all ears on how you have a cast iron forging facility to pour cast iron into the alleady bored cam bores to rebore them with a centerline moved up .



Edited by mlpankey - 15 Dec 2012 at 9:47pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 2012 at 9:55pm
heres the oil pan rail on a block that was clearanced for a true stroke of 6 inches with a rod jouranl of 1.800  rods were after market  billet about as narrow as you ca get .
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 2012 at 10:15pm
since i know i am dealing with guys who havent ever remove a oil pan from one . heres a picture of a stock stroke and bore bootom end. notice the rail clearance and cam .
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rod B Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec 2012 at 2:34am
Sure pankey. Those notches are so wide they are for Buda rods, pretty small bores also.    Buda and billet are spelled different. Your measureing skills are off also as a Buds uses a 1.9985 crankpin. 1.8 is to weak. Didn't you break a few cranks with 1.75 rod journals?   As wi said he did some work figureing out cap angle and rod profile

We have seen your welding skills. A toddler could do better.

Please let us know the shop physical adress, phone numbers and business partners. We kneed to know who to avoid.


Edited by Rod B - 16 Dec 2012 at 2:40am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Unstylish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec 2012 at 2:37am
pank, quit digging a hole. Its a 6.5" crank , Ive seen it with my own eyes. There is plenty of room. There is no pororsity, and you couldnt see it in that pic IF there was any. Its just another case of you dont know your A$$ from a hole in the ground. You cant even answer my questions because all you are doing is fishing. You will never build something, let alone something reliable. Youve proven yourself to be nuttier than squirrel chit time and time again. Its flat embarassing..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Unstylish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec 2012 at 2:42am
Oh, and yes, my crank is right where I left it.  See, I dont  have to worry about selling it or dreaming. I already have a running engine that has made more dyno runs than all your motors put together, let alone hooks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec 2012 at 7:56am
Dream on. Nope notches were for 1.800 aftermarket billet rods.not small borez eithed. They were 4.790 in that picture before getting inlarged again. No holes here

Edited by mlpankey - 16 Dec 2012 at 8:00am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Unstylish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec 2012 at 9:56am
 You asked the question,wi50 posted pics, I confirmed info. Wi50 and I BOTH have more knowledge on this subject. Annnnnd newsflash, you cant seem to understand it.  Well, I just cant help if you are stupid.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec 2012 at 11:00am
Originally posted by mlpankey mlpankey wrote:

C i am all ears on how you have a cast iron forging facility to pour cast iron into the alleady bored cam bores to rebore them with a centerline moved up .
Cry
WHY would someone need a cast iron forging facility?( I'm really surprised you got all 3 of these spelled right)
 Go back and read the words Marty wrote, not what you thought he wrote, or what you think he should have wrote, but the words he actually wrote.

So a guy could run a billet cam, moved up in the block by .250-.300 pretty easy by offset boring the cam bore in the block, I would make plugs and fill the bores to start with, shoot a new line up whatever distance is desired.

Now pank, if you had any knowledge of machining or repair work, you would have NO reason to think you need cast iron to do thisConfused
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec 2012 at 11:12am
I have made steel sleeves for a V16 natural gas pumping monster engine that were cut to fit the bottom third of the block cam bore after it was bored Oversize to make it round. Then we cut about .100 off the bottom of the caps, installed the sleeve, bolted up the caps and the block was lined bored to original size and location. The guys doing the line bore work travel the WORLD doing this kind of work and they don't need a cast iron forging facility to fix the engine, just a good machinist to make the parts like they want.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec 2012 at 12:15pm
Yep thats the wa you line bore mains is to grind the caps smaller then fasten them and bore back to original size. You saying add a eccentric bushing wich is the way i am saying. But i am turning cam journal in lathe to the eccenttric bushing bore. It just to me seams to be lesser work and harder work isnt always smarter work.burchard answered the question early on so keep expanding on it so i become less impressed with everyones mechanical appitude.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wi50 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec 2012 at 2:54pm
Originally posted by mlpankey mlpankey wrote:

Yep thats the wa you line bore mains is to grind the caps smaller then fasten them and bore back to original size. You saying add a eccentric bushing wich is the way i am saying. But i am turning cam journal in lathe to the eccenttric bushing bore. It just to me seams to be lesser work and harder work isnt always smarter work.burchard answered the question early on so keep expanding on it so i become less impressed with everyones mechanical appitude.
 
 
You are shooting yourself in the foot spankey.  Now READ this post for what it says.
 
You didn't want to move the cam earlier in this thread, now you want to do it.....  you asked originally how far you could move the crank without timeing gear issues and later say you know exactly how far your "shop" knows how far it can be moved.  Talkning in circles. 
 
At least there's a chance you'll learn something only to be forgotten before being used I suppose.
 
Turning the cam main journals down to fit your bushings is not going to get you far at all.  If you think before posting and can read a caliper, have a straight edge you'd see that.  Take your straight edge and lay it on the cam main journals and measure how far it is to the top of a lobe...... tell us how far it is and just how far you could turn the mains down.........If a guy is going to do it, do it once and do it right.
 
What you would do by turning the cam down, is that you would have to grind smaller lobes, which in turn is what you DON'T want to do.  Anyone with any camshaft knowledge, even the most basic would want the largest lobe possiable to start working with.  The larger the better, the limeting factor being the cam main journal diameter.
 
 
The crank in the pictures is 6.5" stroke.  It's in a block for mock up purposes only for alterations to connecting rod design.  I tryed some sample rods of different cap angles and found what works best to clear. Cap angle and rod profile are verry important..... or else you end up with clearance issues an inch to soon like in your pictures.  At 6" stroke with a set of rods with a 27.5 degree cap angle there is almost NO clearance work to do.  Straight cap rods do not clear well (your pictures show that). 
 
Quit the commando crap and get your hands dirty if you think you know how.  Falling down or dragging your knuckles on the shop floor does not count.  
 


Edited by wi50 - 16 Dec 2012 at 3:19pm
"see what happens when you have no practical experience doing something...... you end up playing with calculators and looking stupid on the internet"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec 2012 at 3:26pm
if i was going to do the effort to move the cam i would move it to over head . do you ever get past mock ups . crank rod mock ups flywheel clutch mockups. alot of effort  and time in mock ups no wonder you make a pull as often as the lobness monster appears.

Edited by mlpankey - 16 Dec 2012 at 3:29pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec 2012 at 5:15pm
Originally posted by mlpankey mlpankey wrote:

if i was going to do the effort to move the cam i would move it to over head . do you ever get past mock ups . crank rod mock ups flywheel clutch mockups. alot of effort  and time in mock ups no wonder you make a pull as often as the lobness monster appears.
Look, I quoted Mitch againConfused When have you pulled? People ask for pictures and you say they are all over the web. The only thing I could find about you pulling is this:
mitch pankey
Mar 1, 2006 - 10:27PM
juder smith

hello juder i pull a wd in southeast tennessee. would like to talk to you maybe see if i could step my tractor up . right now shes 307 cubes but always looking for more snott especially this year my best finish for 2005 was 2cnd.

And this:
Outlaw 4000
1. Brandon Knight 242.09 WC Allis
2. Brian Tinch 221.11 77 Oliver
3. Lavon Spears 192.06 H Farmall
4. Mitch Pankey 157.03 WD Allis
Antique 4500
1. Chad Hackett 283.00 John Deere A
2. Chris Brewington 212.03 H Farmall
3. Brian Tinch 205.00 77 Oliver
4. Mitch Pankey 203.05 WC All
Well, you got within a hundred feet of a winnerWink


Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 16 Dec 2012 at 5:17pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec 2012 at 5:48pm
yeap we pulled 307 inches for 5 years and it ran out of snott  needed new sleeves and valve seats. this is why we went bigger and found ways to make more snott . Alll those tractors are respectively built tractors .  Thankyou for showing that I was pulling nin 2005 and have been pulling ever since that .at least 7 years experience and as i said we had 5 years before that with that engine . The wc was 380 inches in 06 chads A was huge and won several king of the hill 10,000 lb pulls.  the h had a marlatt engine .  alot of points pullers would be happy with consistant 4 place finishes but not me.  one way to know if you got everything you need is to pull regularly and see where you finish in the standings it can be verry good motivation . It can also show that all the money you just spent was spent in all the wrong places especially if your builder is selling small cubic inches in classes where 400 to 600 plus  inches are.

Edited by mlpankey - 16 Dec 2012 at 6:05pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rod B Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec 2012 at 9:04pm
This thread is epic. Asking Juder for help is the best idea pank has had. Marty had to explain how to get a 7" stroke to clear.

Did you get a ribbon for participation? You say you have been pulling ever since but yet can not post where or any results. At least you're consistant at around 90 feet behind the leader.

It's as fishey as your machine shop of which you avoide giveing us a phone number and physical adress.


It's clear that an overhead cam is over your head. Can we see some pictures of the billet rods you claim go on that 1.8" journal? With only a 6" stroke and that small of a journal no clearance work would be needed unless the rod was a total hack job or poor design. Why use such a bulkey rod?

Unless of course you are lying to us

Edited by Rod B - 16 Dec 2012 at 10:16pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Dec 2012 at 6:17am
Originally posted by Rod B Rod B wrote:

This thread is epic. Asking Juder for help is the best idea pank has had. Marty had to explain how to get a 7" stroke to clear.

Did you get a ribbon for participation? You say you have been pulling ever since but yet can not post where or any results. At least you're consistant at around 90 feet behind the leader.

It's as fishey as your machine shop of which you avoide giveing us a phone number and physical adress.


It's clear that an overhead cam is over your head. Can we see some pictures of the billet rods you claim go on that 1.8" journal? With only a 6" stroke and that small of a journal no clearance work would be needed unless the rod was a total hack job or poor design. Why use such a bulkey rod?

Unless of course you are lying to us
  the 1.8 rod 6 inch stroke was a proven natpa winner .yes it is epic you see back then pullers got help from each other . today its just hackjobs on pulling sites showing mockups. never ran to know if they work or fail.  the only mockup a crank with that bad of welds around here would get is how to turn it to fit in a scrap metal dumpster.  Its nice to see that crank though now i know where the crank a mississiippi feloow had that looked that rough when shown on yt pullings forum came from he wouldnt say cause the guy told him he would give him his money back if he wouldnt name him and hurt his buisiness.

Edited by mlpankey - 17 Dec 2012 at 6:27am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mgburchard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Dec 2012 at 8:00am
mitch the want a bes will allways try to drag you down keep doing what your doing
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ken(MI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Dec 2012 at 8:40am
I just have to say that I just heard the best one yet with the "cast iron forging facility" comment since "triple hardening steel" on this forum. I have been around the forging industry a little, and have NEVER heard of forged cast iron, or a poured forging. WOW, someone actually trying to learn something on here could become dangerous. I admire the inginuity shown here, but the banter gets a little old and pretty outlandish sometimes.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Butch(OH) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Dec 2012 at 9:13am
Hey Ken! 
Glad to see you posting again. Ever been around a Parrot? No more needs saidWink

Stick around and you will be further "enlightened"  Might even learn from the master how to build and engine or do some simple machine work then you can use all those machine tools at your shop??LOLLOL



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