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Reed 
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Joined: 07 Nov 2011
Location: Dallas
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 Topic: The "new guy" and his new old WD
Posted: 07 Nov 2011 at 2:58pm |
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I'm new to any Forum not just this one. But since I just bought a 1952 AC from the family farm, I figured I better join. I have a feeling that I will be needing some advice.
First question is a simple one. How do I know if my AC is a WD or a WD-45? I'm not sure of the difference.
Thanks!
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DonDittmar
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Joined: 15 Sep 2009
Location: MIllersburg, MI
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Posted: 07 Nov 2011 at 2:59pm |
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WD engine has a plate with bolts on the side of the block, 45 block doesnt have this plate.....this is assuming the engine hasnt been changed at some point in the past
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Experience is a fancy name for past mistakes. "Great moments are born from great opportunity"
1968 D15D,1962 D19D
Also 1965 Cub Loboy and 1958 JD 720 Diesel Pony Start
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DonDittmar
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Posted: 07 Nov 2011 at 2:59pm |
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Also if you post the serial number we should be able to tell from that
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Experience is a fancy name for past mistakes. "Great moments are born from great opportunity"
1968 D15D,1962 D19D
Also 1965 Cub Loboy and 1958 JD 720 Diesel Pony Start
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Reed
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Posted: 07 Nov 2011 at 3:23pm |
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Ok, thank you. I will look for both the plate and SN.
Also, the first issue I need to address is the rust in the gas tank. Is there a "proper" way to correct this long term? Or do i simply take it off/apart, clean it out and have it put back together?
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Reed
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Posted: 07 Nov 2011 at 3:24pm |
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Not sure if those fuel tanks can be "re-finished" or not.
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Jim Lindemood
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Posted: 07 Nov 2011 at 4:09pm |
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Welcome -- lots of good info freely shared here. I have not cleaned a fuel tank , but there are folks here that have and will probably share their experience.
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Jim Lindemood
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Posted: 07 Nov 2011 at 4:13pm |
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Should say that if you don't get an answer --- make a new post and put you question in the subject -- like "question cleaning fuel tank" -- that way folks see right away that you have a question or problem they can zero in on.
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Gerald J.
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Posted: 07 Nov 2011 at 4:59pm |
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In recent times radiator shops have the capability of cleaning and coating tanks. Its also possible to do it yourself. One scheme puts in some gravel and mounts the tank on the tractor wheel so it can tumble and uses gravel or some chain in the tank to knock all the rust loose that then can be rinsed out with some liquid, then there's a liquid sealer that can be poured in and distributed by turning the tank in all possible orientations to cover all the surfaces. But I've not done that.
One other measure of WD vs WD 45 is that all WD45 have a curved shifter, to go along with a helical gear transmission and most WD have a straight shifter and straight cut gears, but some of the last year of WD have the later transmission so its not fool proof.
The SN is on top the left axle housing IIRC. A WD45 should begin with WD45...
Gerald J.
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Reed
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Posted: 07 Nov 2011 at 4:59pm |
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Thanks. I look forward to the advice and opinions of fellow AC guys.
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dave63
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Posted: 07 Nov 2011 at 5:26pm |
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Welcome to the forum. I cleaned and recoated a couple of gas tanks about 10 years ago still no problem with them. I am trying to remember the name of the product. I think redcoat or something like that. I got it at auto parts store. There was a thread a few months ago about it mybe you can do a search for it.
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The universal answer to all questions is yes, how much do you want to spend?
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Dick L
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Posted: 07 Nov 2011 at 5:52pm |
Welcome Aboard. The very best way to clean and preserve a tractor gas tank is to take it to a radiator shop that has done them in the past. Myself I have never done the very best because of an inbred gene that tells me if it can be done there just (AINT) no way I can't figure out how to do it myself. After 10 times the money spent from buying more tractors or parts to get the parts to try again on the ones that didn't turn out. I most times Ahh sometimes get a passable job. What I have found out for a do it myself tank cleaning and coating that if I buy the (complete gas tank cleaning and coating kit) from www.eastwood.com then take the time to read the instructions, then humble myself enough to follow those instructions without cutting corners, I get a job that does not have to be redone. For the coating I think that any brand is most likely the same stuff just in different colors. Eastwood just has the cleaning chemicals with the coating if you want to buy the kit.
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TREVMAN
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Posted: 07 Nov 2011 at 6:39pm |
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Dont coat it. Pieces of chain 6 inches long, CLR and a bit of water. I have rigged tanks up to spin on cement mixers and power vices. Let the tank spin. The last tank I cleaned I did with CLR, Drano, pieces of chain, and a bunch of nuts, bolts, washers, didnt have my cement mixer handy so just shook the tank with a buddy. Gave it a good shake, let it sit, another good shake etc. Dumped it, flushed with diesel (just a little) and then gas, shook out all the nuts, chain etc. Allis tanks I find are very thick material, I wouldnt use any coating. If your tank is rusted through, find a better one, over 200000 manufactured, they come up on ebay. Hook a filter inbetween tank and carb. Ive never had a problem using this method. OR, take the tank to a rad shop and have them clean it, they dunk it in a caustic tank, rinse it, never had bad luck with that direction either, good luck, Trev.
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TREVMAN
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Posted: 07 Nov 2011 at 6:47pm |
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Oh, forgot. Welcome aboard and you have acquired maybe the best tractor Allis ever built. Curved shifter/straight shifter, plate on engine, and magneto vs. distributor ignition are good indicators. No 45 ever came factory with a mag. IF your tractor has a magneto, it is LIKELY a WD, but not neccessarily, it could have been changed for some reason. Serial # is your best bet, post it, many of us can deciper it for you, Trev.
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fixer1958
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Posted: 07 Nov 2011 at 7:10pm |
My first WD had a really rusty tank and I sent it to a rad shop that "said" he had some really good stuff to coat the inside of the tank. I dealt with this guy many times and never had a problem. Always did good work. Got it done for I think $125. Got it back on and about 2 months later the WD wouldn't hardly run. I looked in the tank and the stuff was coming off in sheets and pieces and plugging everything up. I called him up and he said "huh, must not have gotten it clean enough, sorry about that, can't help ya". I raised he?? about it and didn't get anywhere other than no more business from the shop I was working at and anyone else I could tell. I finally cut a hole in the upper front half and dug all the crap out and buffed it all up with a wire brush on a die grinder and brazed the hole shut and was good after that. That was before internet and the resources available today. I was tight on cash and did what I could because I needed the old tractor now. I think the tank sealer is a good product, just be careful of your jobber is all I'm saying.
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Don(MO)
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Posted: 07 Nov 2011 at 7:35pm |
First off welcome aboard! You will find all the help right here for the best tractor Allis made..... I have three WD45's and use one of them every day for something around the farm.
Here's a link to Brain's web site that will show where the ser # is at.
Don
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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 07 Nov 2011 at 7:53pm |
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I personally have never used the sealer. I have put the chain and rocks inside and cleaned with CLR, etc... THen flush and install. I put an inline filter on the tank and change that a couple times the first year, then o.k.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 07 Nov 2011 at 7:54pm |
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I think the the alcohol in the gas these days has some effect on SOME of the sealers.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Chalmersbob
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Posted: 07 Nov 2011 at 8:15pm |
I have done several tanks by putting a chian inside and shaking the tank, Then flush and coat with a sealer. I've never had a problem with the coating coming loose.
Buying another tank does mean it's any better then yours.
One thing that I do is get a short pipe nipple and a cap and install them in the gas outlet, this will protect your internal threads from getting coated. The caoting could be hard to remove from the threads. Bob
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Chalmersbob
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Posted: 07 Nov 2011 at 8:16pm |
OH, I forgot
WELCOME to the forum
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79fordblake
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Posted: 07 Nov 2011 at 8:18pm |
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I coated a tank for my WD45 with RedKote.....been setting for two weeks....can't make up my mind if I should wait a little longer or just go ahead and put it on tomorrow. I still have the other tank on the tractor so I can use it....it just seeps a little.
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