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banjojelly 
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Joined: 11 hours 60 minutes ago
Location: S. Illinois
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 Topic: Suggestions on Adding a Hydraulic Valve on a WD
Posted: 11 hours 44 minutes ago at 11:47am |
Hello. I usually frequent a different tractor related forum, but most of the tractor guys have left and it is mostly lawn and garden stuff now.
I have a WD with a loader that I have been using for small jobs around the house for about 8 years now. The large loader tractor and Kubota skid steer that we use on the farm are only about a mile from my house, so I can grab them if I need them, but having the WD around for moving stuff is pretty handy.
My issue has become that my hydraulic lever has gotten to the point where it will no longer stay in position. I have tried pretty much everything I can do to make it stay put. It not just a creep. It either wants to be full pressure up, or drop. I am not going to waste a bunch of money rebuilding the selector assembly. The hydraulics are strong. I would like to just plumb in a spool valve and run my loader from that. I am not that familiar with the AC high pressure/ low volume system and it only needs to be a one way valve on top of that. My loader is a trip bucket.
If anyone has ever done this before and could steer me in the right direction to do it as efficiently and cheap as possible, it would be much appreciated.
Edited by banjojelly - 11 hours 4 minutes ago at 12:27pm
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Ray54
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Joined: 22 Nov 2009
Location: Paso Robles, Ca
Points: 4546
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Posted: 10 hours 4 minutes ago at 1:27pm |
A simple no cost way to check out if the problem is the packing on the piston in the rams. Lift the boom up and let it drop a number of times. Put your hand on the ram, if it is much warmer than surrounding metal it is, it is the ram not your control valve. If the seal is bad on the piston of the ram oil leaks past and the friction creates heat.
I also use to worry that the control valve was leaking in situations like you have. Most times it is internal seals in the ram, and no oil is leaking to the outside.
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banjojelly
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Location: S. Illinois
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Posted: 9 hours 53 minutes ago at 1:38pm |
If you are referring to the lift cylinders on my loader as being the rams, then I know they are not the problem. I honed and re-cupped them and replaced the wiper seals when I got the tractor running. They will hold position if the engine is off.
If you are referring to something else as being the rams, then you will have to elaborate for me.
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DSeries4
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Ontario, Canada
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Posted: 9 hours 1 minutes ago at 2:30pm |
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The friction block on the lift lever is worn so the handle does not stay in position. You can get a new friction block from Steiners or DJS. Pretty cheap.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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banjojelly
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Posted: 8 hours 52 minutes ago at 2:39pm |
 DSeries4 wrote:
The friction block on the lift lever is worn so the handle does not stay in position. You can get a new friction block from Steiners or DJS. Pretty cheap.
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Sorry, I guess I didn't explain it very well. Even if I hold the lever in one position, it still will not stop moving. I even tried clamping the lever in place to the quadrant with vice grips but it still would either be dropping or raising. I feel like it is something further into the valving other than just the lever itself.
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Posted: 8 hours 45 minutes ago at 2:46pm |
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Tractors hydraulic pump isn't set for "HOLD" position work. Read the decal on the side of the battery box.
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banjojelly
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Posted: 8 hours 39 minutes ago at 2:52pm |
DrAllis wrote:
Tractors hydraulic pump isn't set for "HOLD" position work. Read the decal on the side of the battery box. |
I dont have a battery box, let alone a decal. This is a working tractor, not a barn queen.
I guess I need to rephrase my initial question. I don't want to keep messing with the lever set up anymore.
Can anyone tell me how to add a hydraulic spool valve to a WD?
Thank you.
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HudCo
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Posted: 4 hours 1 minutes ago at 7:30pm |
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you still have get the pump fuctioning correctly to run extra valves and remotes i have an extra valve and remotes on my wd i still use the lever on the quadrant for the lift arms and the one factory remote but i dont run my pump preasure continus if i dont have to . i have a permant 5000 psi guage on the top of my pump for a referance , and i seperate the two systems with a diverter valve
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banjojelly
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Posted: 3 hours 21 minutes ago at 8:10pm |
HudCo wrote:
you still have get the pump fuctioning correctly to run extra valves and remotes i have an extra valve and remotes on my wd i still use the lever on the quadrant for the lift arms and the one factory remote but i dont run my pump preasure continus if i dont have to . i have a permant 5000 psi guage on the top of my pump for a referance , and i seperate the two systems with a diverter valve |
So you dont just leave the pump on and let it dead head against a valve? Is this to prevent heat build up or does the pump not bypass internally at a given pressure?
I am not using the rear lift. I have a counter weight box permanently mounted on the rear anyway. I really on need to be able to run the loader.
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Ted J
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Joined: 05 Jul 2010
Location: La Crosse, WI
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Posted: 3 hours 8 minutes ago at 8:23pm |
Do you have a manual for the tractor? The directions are in there for setting up the pump and the linkage. You need to have the linkage set up for 'Hold'. After you get this set, you'll have NO problems using it.
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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banjojelly
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Posted: 2 hours 1 minutes ago at 9:30pm |
Ted J wrote:
Do you have a manual for the tractor? The directions are in there for setting up the pump and the linkage. You need to have the linkage set up for 'Hold'. After you get this set, you'll have NO problems using it.
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Yes I have a manual. In order to make it work correctly, I would have to replace a lot of worn out parts that are not worth replacing. We have 5 WD's on our farm. None of them have hydraulics that will hold anymore. I am sorry if I seem rude, but I am not interested in continuing to fight with the worn out quadrant lever. Even if it was functioning perfectly, it is not a good set up for a loader, especially when you have to use the hand clutch in order to fake live hydraulics.
I am only looking for help on how to put a valve block on it to bypass the lever. My hydraulic pump is strong, it is just the valving and lever that is worn/ broken. If everyone else wants to restore theirs to perfect factory condition, be my guest. But this one was $600 with the loader. I am not wanting to restore it, I am wanting to use it.
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Posted: 1 hour 1 minutes ago at 10:30pm |
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Any "add-on" valve to raise your loader up/down/hold will be rated for 2400 psi. Your tractors pump, if in great condition, is 3400 psi. So, right off the bat, your lifting power will be drastically reduced. Maybe that doesn't matter. You will still have to use the tractors worn out LIFT/LOWER lever to turn on the pump and to shut it off when hydraulics aren't needed. And, whatever you wind up doing, the hand clutch will still be required.
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jvin248
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Joined: 17 Jan 2022
Location: Detroit
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Posted: 8 minutes ago at 11:23pm |
.
Ontario tractor YouTube channel added a spool valve so they could run their round baler. That may be what you want.
Link to the battery box decal
That diagram shows which bolts to twist to get the action you want. Search for hydraulic decal if the link is bad.
That's cheaper than a spool valve.
Edited by jvin248 - 3 minutes ago at 11:28pm
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banjojelly
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Posted: 7 minutes ago at 11:24pm |
DrAllis wrote:
Any "add-on" valve to raise your loader up/down/hold will be rated for 2400 psi. Your tractors pump, if in great condition, is 3400 psi. So, right off the bat, your lifting power will be drastically reduced. Maybe that doesn't matter. You will still have to use the tractors worn out LIFT/LOWER lever to turn on the pump and to shut it off when hydraulics aren't needed. And, whatever you wind up doing, the hand clutch will still be required. |
Where does the 2400psi rating come from? A quick look at single block valves and I see PSI ratings from 3000 to 3625. I am probably going to try and scavenge one from another machine, but that seems reasonable.
Can the pump not stay on if a valve is being used to control it? I guess I don't understand why the pump would need to be off if a valve is installed. The hydraulic pumps on other tractors run all the time. The power steering pump in your car or truck runs all the time. They just bypass internally. If I can just leave the pump on and let it dead head at the valve, then the quadrant lever is not necessary. The only thing I can see that turning the pump off on the factory system does is allow the fluid to back flow to use gravity down. If I had a valve, I could run the return side back to the pump sump, if I knew where to tie into it at.
I am not claiming to know exactly what I am doing. But I have been farming for 25 years and teaching high school shop for 16. I have training as a machinist, although I did not pursue that career. I do know a little bit about machinery. The AC system is just different than the Farmall and Ford and of course any of the more modern equipment we are using like our Magnum series Case's. Before I tore into it myself, I thought it wise to check with people who have more experience to get information about moving forward. Maybe those people don't agree. Idk. I am not trying to be argumentative, I am genuinely trying to figure out how to make it work. Part of the fun for me is making it work from junk I can scavenge and have laying around. If I just want a set of loader arms to pick something up I would just go grab the skid steer and do it.
And yes, I realize the hand clutch will still be required. But riding the hand clutch and controlling a detent valve seems a whole lot more intuitive than riding a hand clutch forward and backward and the quadrant lever up and down, both at the same time. Its like trying to pat your head and rub your belly while trying not to crash into whatever you are trying to pick up or dump.
Edited by banjojelly - 3 minutes ago at 11:28pm
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