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Sticking position control/draft plunger |
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tbran ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Paris Tn Points: 3539 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 13 May 2019 at 11:47pm |
Lots of questions are ask as to why the 'lift arms will not lower' on D17IV - all 100 series and others using the Kontac valve system.
Getting older and less flexible it is increasingly more difficult to get down and see under , say a D17 IV to free the valve and push the finger forward that sometimes sticks as well. I have found there is a hole in the metal right above the TB valve that can be used to access the plunger - via - a special tool made from a flat screwdriver with a 8-10 shank. Heat the screwdriver and bend a 90 degree tab on the blade end approx. 1/8 " Then with the 90 degree lip facing down make the shank banana shaped with about a 3" curve from the tip to the start of the handle. This tool can be inserted in the hole standing at the rear of the tractor, and slid forward over the top of the spool going forward until it contacts the activating finger - tap the finger forward - then let the lip stick down , grabbing the front of the spool and pull rearward compressing the spring - letting it slip off and unless the spool is really stuck, it will pop forward - a little lube and 8-10 'pops' will usually free the piston without wrenches. A small pair of vise grip attached will make a handle for the tool. I know this works on D17IV and at least some 170-175 and probably others. Just a FYI moment after reading some posts.
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When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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Dave(inMA) ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Grafton, MA Points: 2399 |
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tbran, sounds like a handy tool! Can you post some pictures? Thanks!
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WC, CA, D14, WD45
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 22043 |
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Many times the linkage finger is rusted onto the bushing inside of it, making it hard to get any lube inside. Some go to the trouble of disassembling the console to get down to that bushing. I prefer to loosen or remove the nut on the finger bolt, forcibly turn the bolt inside of the bushing, and then reinstall the nut without a lock washer and leave the nut loose enough the bolt can spin. Sometimes I never remove the lock washer, just loosen up the nut. it's rusty enough in the threads it won't fall off even when left loose. The bolt pivoting instead of the bushing is just fine and will never cause any issues.
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