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Seasonal disconnect?

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whatscooking View Drop Down
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Joined: 08 Oct 2017
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    Posted: 06 Apr 2026 at 5:51pm
What does it take to seal that shaft where it goes into the side of the tractor?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Apr 2026 at 6:09pm
what tractor?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Apr 2026 at 6:18pm
I’m guessing 6060,6070,6080?
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Apr 2026 at 6:45pm
The D-21 PTO seasonal disconnect shaft oil seal is an O-ring (certain size and hardness) that fits in a groove on the levers shaft. To remove the shaft, one must remove a roll pin (or maybe a solid groove pin) from the inside of the four-speed transmission. It's normally a hammer and punch kind of removal. I've never done one in chassis before and don't know how much room there is to work in that area after removing the platform and shift cover from the top of the transmission. I'm pretty sure if the four-speed was split from the rear end and rolled ahead 3 or 4 feet, there would be a way to drive out that pin from the rear. If there's enough room from above, I'm sure I could figure out a way to remove the pin from the top, instead of a split.  Anyway one goes about it, easy it will not be.

Edited by DrAllis - 06 Apr 2026 at 6:46pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote whatscooking Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Apr 2026 at 6:51pm
Originally posted by DrAllis DrAllis wrote:

The D-21 PTO seasonal disconnect shaft oil seal is an O-ring (certain size and hardness) that fits in a groove on the levers shaft. To remove the shaft, one must remove a roll pin (or maybe a solid groove pin) from the inside of the four-speed transmission. It's normally a hammer and punch kind of removal. I've never done one in chassis before and don't know how much room there is to work in that area after removing the platform and shift cover from the top of the transmission. I'm pretty sure if the four-speed was split from the rear end and rolled ahead 3 or 4 feet, there would be a way to drive out that pin from the rear. If there's enough room from above, I'm sure I could figure out a way to remove the pin from the top, instead of a split.  Anyway one goes about it, easy it will not be.

If it's split for a clutch does that help?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Apr 2026 at 6:56pm
That would require lifting the complete control module off the top of the bell housing and splitting it from the front of the four-speed transmission. Probably could be done that way but a lot of work. A rear split is easier. Is there a clutch problem too ??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote whatscooking Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Apr 2026 at 6:59pm
Transmission fluid out the hole.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote whatscooking Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 5 hours 47 minutes ago at 3:36am
There has to be many of these D21s leaking?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2 hours 4 minutes ago at 7:19am
Built in 1963-69. So 60 years on the original O-ring?? Yup, unless someone has replaced it before, it probably leaks.   So, with the 4-speed transmission cover removed, one could take a long pry bar and get it up against the internal shifter and force it outwards (compressing the detent spring or just remove the detent spring from the outside first) as far as it will go and hold it there.  I would then take my Makita angle grinder with a thin cutting disc and carefully cut off the end of the shifter shaft, dropping the long lever on the ground with a very short stub still welded in it. Or grind the weld thin enough to break the long lever free from the shaft and then cut the shaft off making it a squared off shaft end. I have a mag(netic) drill, so my next step would be to drill a hole in the end of that shifter shaft 5/16" or 3/8" diameter and tap NC threads in it. Lots of air and brake kleen to dry the area free of any residual oil (transmission drained).  Push the shaft inwards as far as it will now go. Place a thin thickness Oring into the shafts hole with an O.D. that fits the hole and stays put. Fill the hole with black oil resistant RTV.  Procure or fabricate a thick flat washer to now bolt up to the end of that shaft, drawing the shaft up against the thick flat washer and placing the RTV and that Oring under a squish. Let it cure for a couple of days.  Before the final squeeze, use that long pry bar to place the shifter collar engaged or disengaged, as you desire, before tightening the bolt.  The flat washer can just be a square flat iron of 1/4" thick (minimum) steel with a proper size hole drilled in it. It must be larger than the hole in the transmission case for the RTV to be fully mooshed out.

Edited by DrAllis - 1 hour 54 minutes ago at 7:29am
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