Rusty restoration

I dont really know how to describe this. Has anyone restored anything rusty without painting it? I see pickups and such that are not necessarily restored, more like preserved. Looks like maybe they Clearcoat right over the rust??

The reason I ask is I have an Allis garden tractor that is a nice original, although does have some rust. I have it torn down, just wondering what I can do to clean it up but not paint it. I washed the hood three times, one coat of rubbing compound, and one of wax, and it looks incredible, but the paint was in good shape. The white dash is reddish brown with rust, and the inside of the frame is rusty from 20 years sitting with acorns and walnuts and crud in it. Should a guy use rubbing compound and wax where the paint is good, and just wire brush the rust and then clear coat it? Just looking for ideas and experience, thanks.

So here is what I'm talking about. The hood and seat pan cleaned up real nice. But the frame is a lot more rusty.

Edited by littlemarv - 14 Oct 2022 at 9:57pm

I would wire brush the backside that has excessive rust.. You dont have to go to clean metal........ then WAX like you did the paint portion.

   Hi.
   Marv, what would you think of a thorough cleaning and then give it a clear coat of rattle can spray paint. The patina would remain; and, the metal would be protected.
   
   Ross D.

Wire brush rusty area to knock off loose stuff, brush on muriatic acid, let sit for a few mins, rinse well with water dry well with compressed air and then clear coat or wax. Proper PPE, and precautions apply. The acid wash and water rinse is to stop the chemical reaction of rusting. If you don't do something to stabilize the rusting, it will continue under the wax or paint. There are other products to use instead of the acid that work well too, but muriatic works well, and is way cheaper.

Place I worked at made plates that were grid plates (raised dots) used for positioning machines by counting chemical milled dots on plate . We used a phosphate bath to soak the plates in for a time , then dry them in a drying oven - after they were coated with a oil which was removed when plate was put into final assembly - the phosphate kept rust from forming when used in controlled atmospher .
  After chemical etching and before phosphate bath the plates were soaked in a dilute 20% solution of inhibited muriatic acid to remove any surface rust which may have formed .

Edited by Coke-in-MN - 20 Oct 2022 at 1:43pm

Dave H wrote: Lou, I been waiting for someone to suggest what you did.  Also using Phosphoric acid is or was common for the same purpose.  As I foggily recall, when you combine iron oxide (rust) with phosphoric acid you get iron phosphate which is an inert material. Lotta times that stuff is labeled as bare metal prep.  I used to get it off the shelf in Home Depot in the metal prep section.  Dave, actually i meant phosphoric acid! I will go back and correct my post. Thanks