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DrAllis 
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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 Posted: 20 Aug 2025 at 8:29am |
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Took me 20 minutes to type my short story and TBran beat me to it !!!
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SteveM C/IL
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Shelbyville IL
Points: 8612
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Posted: 20 Aug 2025 at 11:14am |
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Lol there pokey....starting to look like guides may be the culprit.
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TedN
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Joined: 30 Apr 2025
Location: Central WA
Points: 79
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Posted: 20 Aug 2025 at 11:18am |
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First post said it doesn't turn over at all - does it now turn with the head removed? It looks like the pistons are in different positions, so I would guess it does. I think I would bolt the head back on and see if I could get a pushrod straight enough to give a decent indication, then roll it over by hand until you see what stops it. I think the suggestion of valve guides is correct, because it would be difficult to time the cam to bend ALL of the pushrods so severely, maybe half of them. Be interesting to see the cause.
Ted
Edited by TedN - 20 Aug 2025 at 11:18am
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190XTD seriesIII, 190XTD seriesI, maroon belly 7000, 190XTD series??? project(or maybe parts)
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DrAllis
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Posted: 20 Aug 2025 at 11:28am |
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There's a dimension given in the service manual as to how far to press the valve guides in BELOW flush of the top surface of the cylinder head (where the valve cover gasket contacts). This is the most likely cause of 8 destroyed push rods.
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Clay
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Udall, Kansas
Points: 9872
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Posted: 20 Aug 2025 at 11:30am |
Improperly knurled or honed valve guides? Valve guide bores measured for the proper tolerance? Condition of valve stems? Valve seat depth? Rust or deposits on the valves? Excess fuel or water in the cylinders? Engine way out of time? Mud daubers? Gremlins? These and many other mysteries need to be answered.
Edited by Clay - 20 Aug 2025 at 11:32am
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HudCo
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Joined: 29 Jan 2013
Location: Plymouth Utah
Points: 3892
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Posted: 20 Aug 2025 at 11:36am |
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my red flag is it said that the head was done twice it was split three times three places or the same place three times
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55allis
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Joined: 30 Jun 2020
Location: Griswold Iowa
Points: 945
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Posted: 20 Aug 2025 at 11:45am |
The front crank pulley was never pulled… Was just about every thing my puller could pull without heating it up. The seal looks original. The engine does turn over after I got all the push rods out (that was really fun getting one out  ). The valve guides look to be good with being just pass even with top of head.    Valve that I pulled doesn’t appear to be in the best shape but looks like it should run.
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1955 AC WD45 diesel with D262 repower, 1949 AC WD45
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DrAllis
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Posted: 20 Aug 2025 at 11:52am |
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I'd have to look in my service manual at home to tell you the guide height, but it's below flush of the top of the head, not flush. I'm thinking 1/8" inch below. When one used Allis/AGCO guides they had a mark on the guides that was the proper dimension so you pressed them into the head from the top until the mark was flush with the guides bore.
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
Points: 87595
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Posted: 20 Aug 2025 at 12:15pm |
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that valve face looks like it was cut with a body grinder !! ....... is it just a bad picture, or is it really that bad ?
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Les Kerf
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Joined: 08 May 2020
Location: Idaho
Points: 1254
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Posted: 20 Aug 2025 at 1:36pm |
 steve(ill) wrote:
that valve face looks like it was cut with a body grinder !! ....... is it just a bad picture, or is it really that bad ? |
My 14 year old grandson does a better job than that using my 100 year old Van Norman valve grinder. Seriously.
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Gary Burnett
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Virginia
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Posted: 20 Aug 2025 at 4:17pm |
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The stem also looks like its an old valve not new one
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55allis
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Joined: 30 Jun 2020
Location: Griswold Iowa
Points: 945
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Posted: 20 Aug 2025 at 6:39pm |
Gary Burnett wrote:
The stem also looks like it’s an old valve not new one |
you are right, rust pits everywhere. Just noticed today that the bottom of the sleeves are pitted pretty bad… If I was to planing on running it a lot I’d probably go ahead and put new sleeves in due to burning a little oil.  I didn’t realize that someone could do a job like this and still get business while charging full price..
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1955 AC WD45 diesel with D262 repower, 1949 AC WD45
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55allis
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Joined: 30 Jun 2020
Location: Griswold Iowa
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Posted: 20 Aug 2025 at 6:42pm |
Les Kerf wrote:
My 14 year old grandson does a better job than that using my 100 year old Van Norman valve grinder. Seriously.
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He probably could run a paint gun a lot better than what this guy did too!!! The back wheels are full of runs… and the front axle was painted with a brush it looks like to me….
Edited by 55allis - 20 Aug 2025 at 6:43pm
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1955 AC WD45 diesel with D262 repower, 1949 AC WD45
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DrAllis
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Posted: 20 Aug 2025 at 7:02pm |
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Intake guides to be at least 1/8" (.125") below flush with the top of the head and exhausts are flush.
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Dirt Farmer
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Joined: 15 Sep 2020
Location: Illinois
Points: 434
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Posted: 20 Aug 2025 at 9:22pm |
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Just wondering, what are the chances that the last time it was worked on the guy put the wrong push rods in out of another project he had been working on and there is another project out there that has no power or cranks but won't start. Just thinking outside the box. Too long, totally collapsing the spring and bending the push rods.
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Gary Burnett
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Location: Virginia
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Posted: Yesterday at 1:28am |
Dirt Farmer wrote:
Just wondering, what are the chances that the last time it was worked on the guy put the wrong push rods in out of another project he had been working on and there is another project out there that has no power or cranks but won't start. Just thinking outside the box. Too long, totally collapsing the spring and bending the push rods. |
Also seems to me I remember some of the rocker assemblies being different heights on the 201/226 motors.
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55allis
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Joined: 30 Jun 2020
Location: Griswold Iowa
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Posted: 3 hours 32 minutes ago at 11:35pm |
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Valve guides do not appear to have been replaced…
But they don’t seem to be even…
Plan is to go ahead and rebuild the head, going to local engine shop tomorrow and he will check and or replace valve seats, some appear to have pits and or sunk in.
Some of the original valves have a little bend to them, not bad but figured with the rust pits that fresh ones won’t hurt it.
Going to replace the clutch shaft seal and front crank seal due to leaking. Need your opinion, should I replace the rear crank seal again? The guy supposedly replaced it all ready…. Did he do it correctly I have no clue until I get it apart.
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1955 AC WD45 diesel with D262 repower, 1949 AC WD45
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Dirt Farmer
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Joined: 15 Sep 2020
Location: Illinois
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Posted: 3 hours 10 minutes ago at 11:57pm |
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Better safe than sorry while you have it this far along and if it starts leaking he'd probably blame you. I'd try to figure out why the bent push rods before I dove in too deep. Could turn into a money pit but that's not on you, you are working with what you have and connecting the dots like any good mechanic would do. While the head is being checked over have them check it for being true and flat and ask if there is a way to measure if and how much it may have been planed down. Be sure to check valve/rocker arm settings when reassembling. Keep us in the loop cause we all learn something on here from others experiences.
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