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Paul70 
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Joined: 31 Aug 2020
Location: NM
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 Topic: Pto Easy Connect Adapter
Posted: 31 Aug 2020 at 12:44am |
Hello guys, this old man needs some help. I start having some issue connecting the pto shaft to the tractor, I just don't have the strength in my arms and back like I once did.I have been looking online for something to help and came across this thing call Pto Connect. it seems like it would help but I would like to get some advice before I commit to it.
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DiyDave
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Gambrills, MD
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Posted: 31 Aug 2020 at 4:47am |
The chief problem I see with all of these adapters is that you might have to cut down the drive line, to make the shaft a little shorter. Also, when installing any type of these adapters, make sure to apply never-seize compound to both ends, to keep the adapter from rusting to the shafts...
Here is another style, I have heard good things about:
[TUBE]G8N-toHRFxg[/TUBE]
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Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need!
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Sugarmaker
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8446
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Posted: 31 Aug 2020 at 5:44am |
Tony, I agree wrestling stubborn PTO shafts is not easy. Have had many issues with them. especially on implements not used very often. As mentioned these adapters may not work with some drive shafts due to shortening the distance between the PTO attachment and the implement. I am sure some of the adapters are an improvement. But I was looking at one u-tube video and it took the guy longer to get hooked up than a standard spline. As we age these attachments get tougher. Also just getting the three point attachments in place can be a challenge. Have you considered cleaning and greasing the PTO shaft and the splines? When these are in good working order they generally are easier. I know this has not helped much.
So there are five things here to consider: 1. The lifting/ general alignment of the Implement PTO 2. The movement of the PTO knuckle to get final close alignment. 3. Turning the knuckle or the PTO shaft to get final alignment 4. Pulling back on the spring loaded lock on the implement PTO knuckle 5. Moving the Implement PTO shaft forward or backward on to the tractor and engaging the lock.
Which of these is the hardest for us guys that are 20 any more? Could be all of them as you mention general strength and our hands may not work as well
So maybe we should get our heads together and think about something that might make this task easier?
Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Gary Burnett
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Virginia
Points: 3046
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Posted: 31 Aug 2020 at 6:09am |
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The obvious answer for solving the hooking and unhooking issue is to have an old tractor for every implement,until you get enough tractors you can have Winter and Summer implements for your limited number of tractors.Then after you get enough for each implement you then need to get backup tractors for each job.Works for me.
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
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Posted: 31 Aug 2020 at 8:31am |
gee Gary you beat me to the punch !!!! i got a rider grass cutter AND a snowblowing rider.... NO more crawling on rocks and snow and wet grass for me.....
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
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Gary Burnett
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Location: Virginia
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Posted: 31 Aug 2020 at 8:52am |
 jaybmiller wrote:
gee Gary you beat me to the punch !!!! i got a rider grass cutter AND a snowblowing rider.... NO more crawling on rocks and snow and wet grass for me.....
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I have a David Brown 780 that has only been unhooked from a NH 256 rake 2 or 3 times in the last 20 years.
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john(MI)
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: SE MI
Points: 9262
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Posted: 31 Aug 2020 at 9:34am |
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I usually take a hammer or something metal and tap on the spring loaded button to get it loose. Then I take a narrow screwdriver and scrape out all of the splines on both ends. I usually don't need to oil or grease either of the splines. Then I push and pull on the implement end to get it to move forward and back easily. Usually the plastic sleeve gets dirty so I end up spraying something on it to help. Once everything is clean and loose it usually go right on. It might take a few minutes more, but it makes it a heck of a lot easier to attach.
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D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446
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Eldon (WA)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Spokane, WA
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Posted: 31 Aug 2020 at 9:35am |
Gary Burnett wrote:
The obvious answer for solving the hooking and unhooking issue is to have an old tractor for every implement,until you get enough tractors you can have Winter and Summer implements for your limited number of tractors.Then after you get enough for each implement you then need to get backup tractors for each job.Works for me.
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I have done that, but I still have to remove from the tractor when I grease the u-joints...
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ALLIS EXPRESS!
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PaulB
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Rocky Ridge Md
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Posted: 31 Aug 2020 at 11:20am |
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If you keep the splines clean inside and out NO PROBLEM
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
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Steve A
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Joined: 12 Apr 2012
Location: NLP Mi
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Posted: 31 Aug 2020 at 1:10pm |
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I have often struggled too, but offer no experience with the other hookups. Things I've found helpful for alignment are a small come-along with a kelvar rope instead of a cable (no jagged snags!) and a ratchet strap or one of those web cinch style to get the implement or pto shaft close and hold it there without hopping on and off the tractor multiple times. Mill file or small die grinder to take off any rough spots on the splines, wire brush the living heck out of them, anti seize and spray lube.
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chaskaduo
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Joined: 26 Nov 2016
Location: Twin Cities
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Posted: 31 Aug 2020 at 2:15pm |
DiyDave wrote:
The chief problem I see with all of these adapters is that you might have to cut down the drive line, to make the shaft a little shorter. Also, when installing any type of these adapters, make sure to apply never-seize compound to both ends, to keep the adapter from rusting to the shafts...
Here is another style, I have heard good things about:
[TUBE]G8N-toHRFxg[/TUBE]
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$400 Rural King
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1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp
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Rusty Allis
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Joined: 16 Jul 2020
Location: Rhode Island
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Posted: 31 Aug 2020 at 3:41pm |
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my 0.02...
I hate grease. other than the telescoping portion of the shaft I use a very light oil on the male/female splines. it doesn't cake up and turn to brownie mix and simply wipes off. I have never seen anything wear out prematurely doing this. everything slips together like butter.
clean all the poo out of everything and make it slide. it may help you out
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
Points: 24447
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Posted: 31 Aug 2020 at 7:28pm |
If the PTO is caked hard in grease and dirt, I'd hate to see what the rad looks like ! Seems to me if you can spend 10 minutes cleaning the rad, you should spend 2 or 3 to clean off the PTO parts. jes my opinion....
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Jim.ME
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Location: Maine
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Posted: 31 Aug 2020 at 7:32pm |
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Along with the other things already mentioned, you will be adding weight to the shaft when you install the adapter piece, it doesn't replace the coupler you have on your shaft(s) now. And you still have to slide the collar to lock it on or remove it. If you have button type locks now, you can get replacement collar lock type yokes. That would be lighter than adding an adapter to your shaft. Cleanliness and proper lubrication of the shaft/coupler goes a long way to how easy a PTO shaft hooks up.
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Ted J
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Posted: 31 Aug 2020 at 8:33pm |
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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Lonn
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Joined: 16 Sep 2009
Location: Назарово,Russia
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Posted: 01 Sep 2020 at 1:32pm |
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I prefer button type pto knuckles over the sliding lock. Pulling the lock back while pushing the assembly forward is just a pain. Another thing I hate is when, as on the Allied snow blower, the shear bolts are on that sliding collar knuckle. It can be a struggle in the cold to wrestle that heavy knuckle on and off. The shear bolts should be back further where one can replace it without removing the shaft and that would lighten up the knuckle a lot.
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Tbone95
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Location: Michigan
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Posted: 01 Sep 2020 at 1:38pm |
Lonn wrote:
I prefer button type pto knuckles over the sliding lock. Pulling the lock back while pushing the assembly forward is just a pain. Another thing I hate is when, as on the Allied snow blower, the shear bolts are on that sliding collar knuckle. It can be a struggle in the cold to wrestle that heavy knuckle on and off. The shear bolts should be back further where one can replace it without removing the shaft and that would lighten up the knuckle a lot. |
Man ain't that the truth about those sliding locks. We have one on a conveyor that is also "housed" in the shield that comes out over the end almost, too small for your hand to get into. "Safe", . . .yeah, if you can't hook the SOB up, it's safe because you can't use it!!! 
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Lonn
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Location: Назарово,Russia
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Posted: 01 Sep 2020 at 3:15pm |
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I've been threatening to change the one on the snowblower for years. One day I'll get mad enough to do it!
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I am a Russian Bot
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