Gleaner A2 woes
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Category: Allis Chalmers
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9388
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Topic: Gleaner A2 woes
Posted By: Sandknob
Subject: Gleaner A2 woes
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2010 at 10:38pm
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As I posted earlier, I got the A2 running now, and most of the machine working. The problem I have run into is that the raddle slip clutch slips/chatters terribly. It looks like the raddle is froze up. I have pulled all of the access doors off trying to get to it. Is there any good way to work on it. I have almost come to the conclusion that I am going to have to remove the header throat this summer to get to it. Any suggestions? Thanks Adam |
Replies:
Posted By: JC-WI
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2010 at 11:53pm
| Sand knob, I don't kn ow what it will take to fix yoours up, but my AII was left in a pasture for 20 years and I have no heads for it. Got a KIII that runs pretty nice but... don't have a straight grain head for it. got 2 row corn and a hume real floater cutter bar header. Never usd the corn head but maybe some day. Got my eye on a CII, Hope to get that girl, but its missing parts sop isn't so inticing 'cept for wheel weighs and engine. |
Posted By: MI8050
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2010 at 7:14am
| You can take the side covers off, the lower cover off at the front (make sure the idlers aren't worn or messed up causing chain to bind), also make sure the raddle isn't slacked and hung up. I have had three or four times where I had a stone or twig get under the back sprockets not allowing the raddle to turn and slipping the clutch. I guess I would start soaking it down and see what happens. That have wood slats on the raddle? |
Posted By: Gary (e.c.mo)
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2010 at 7:27am
| Do not grease the slip clutch, my first gleaner I made that mistake. Gary |
Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2010 at 8:19am
Nick is right on about the raddle!
You might look at the sheet metal end rolls, I had a corner of mine turn up and grab the wood shat and stopped it dead in it's tracks. You might try turning it back a little.
DO NOT put a grease gun on a slip clutch.
Don ------------- 3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep. |
MI8050 wrote:Posted By: waltw
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2010 at 8:23am
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try turniing backwards by hand. broken slat probally has it jamed on under side. |
Posted By: Don(MO)
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2010 at 8:44am
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Sorry Gary, I didn't see your post.
Thanks Wait, That is what I was trying to say, I just didn't get it all on here. LOL
Don ------------- 3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep. |
Posted By: MI8050
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2010 at 9:23pm
| I thought I was the only one that didn't grease the slip jaws...... |
Posted By: Eric[IL]
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2010 at 10:16pm
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possible problems from easiest to worst:
1. Worn raddle slip clutch. check its spring, roll pin, & teeth for wear.
2. Look for any place that the chain is catching - front idler debris, cracked or bent raddle floor, worn chain, jumped chain that is out of timing, improper raddle chain tension, and/or worn drive sprockets.
3. A twisted rattle drive shaft located just left of the right hand drive sprocket can put it out of time for both of drive sprockets. Do a visual check on drive sprockets thru access panels to confirm that drive sprockets are in time.
general info: front idlers will rust up and not rotate. Raddle Chain tension - at middle access door a proper chain tension should allow about 1.75"-2" up from the floor. If the chain has stretched you may remove links either down in front near the idlers or sometimes its easier to remove them at mid-point access panesl. For idlers & chain tension, check them at the beginning of each season and 1/2 way thru the season.
To disassemble rattle for serious repairs try removing the walkers and accessing it from the rear of the combine. Usually at this time, the drive sprockets are also worn so that shaft & bearings is also removed. If you have to replace a floor, you will need to make some type of a inside spreader mechanism to help achieve allowable clearance for remove & installation. If you decide to remove the cylinder throat at the pivot you will need some type of a hoist or loader boom and it is much more involved with return elevator, drive belts, hydraulics, & it is heavy. I have removed the raddle chain from the front without removing the throat, but it takes two people & installation takes a rope to help pull it back up into the floor. Only remove the raddle if it is totally worn out and needs replaced. You can make most repairs to it while it is in the machine via the mid access panels or down in front at idlers.
Maintenance schedule should include that you remove the front raddle cover under the cylinder throat at the end of each season & clean out all debris & seed. This decreases rust opportunity & removes mouse food. It also gives you another look at the chain & idlers.
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