Rail slack
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Construction and other equipment
Forum Description: everything else with orange (or yellow) paint
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=91672
Printed Date: 01 Jul 2025 at 9:04pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Rail slack
Posted By: DMiller
Subject: Rail slack
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2014 at 9:14pm
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On my 7G the left rail seems to get slacker when I turn to the left even after I press up the track adjustment. Is it a sign of a broken or partially broken rebound or recoil spring? The left rail is the one I rolled off last season, it seems to try to crawl up the idler when in turns more so than the right, I am aware the old rails are pretty well shot and I have replacements but should I pull the recoil springs on that side(are two in a pack inner/outer) to make certain one isn't broken?
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Replies:
Posted By: Dozer
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2014 at 6:06am
Dave
Mark the position of the front idler bracket on the truck frame to see if it is moving or twisting. If you have hydraulic track adjusters they may be leaking.
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Posted By: Andrew_D
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2014 at 8:09am
I agree with Dozer - mark the frame as a reference and get someone to watch while you drive and turn. If the idler is moving in and out easily, there may very well be a broken spring in there.
What kind of shape is the front idler in? Is the raised center section still in good shape? Not wore down too far? Nice square corners on it? If it is wore down and has rounded corners, that would enable the rail to climb over it easier.
Andrew
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Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2014 at 8:41am
Raised centers on both sides about the same side to side, maybe a 32 or two variance, slope to sides of center not severe and much better as to square than many I have seen.
As I can I will set up for a experiment to see if the recoil is traveling too far too easy, as to adjusters the cylinders so far do not leak and tension up rather easily, do not have to readjust very often and never grease showing save the zerk fitting. As I am disassembling the donor remnants I am saving as much as can, will try to make spring cage bolts to remove those first.
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Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2014 at 2:35pm
Now I am just flat mad. Got it lined up to adjust the slack, two shots from the lube gun so not so much, took it for a spin to see after I marked everything if it would move, won't even try now so the machine is just being difficult as always!
Got the old 7G up on the hill to start moving the last spoil pile and to level our build site prior to cutting in, walked back to old shed to get dump truck and dead battery. Jump started just fine but as disconnected saw the gas leak, Holley bowl to bowl tube. So much for that, so grabbed up the 180.
Got back to the new shed, backfilled around the back, graded some of the excavated spoil for grass later, sun came out and got hot so gave up for the day.
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Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 03 Jul 2014 at 8:35am
Well I managed to get the last of the previous spoil pile up to the new house site, did catch what is happening on my rails.
With a full bucket(heaped) I can almost get two yards in it, with it sitting at the edge of the cut it was hanging at a balance point with 5 of the bottom rollers not in contact with the rails, just hanging in air and pivoting on the front idler. When I brought the dump truck to load I eased the tractor back until it settled back to the rollers and all did fine, anytime I found myself at the balance point and tried to steer it would try to crawl the rail off the idler. Rechecked rail adjustment, still OK, tightened up a shade but made no difference as to the hanging rail. I am almost convinced it is time to convert down to a GP bucket as this Ulrich monster is so heavy.
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Posted By: Dozer
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2014 at 6:55am
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You need really good idlers to turn with the back end in the air. See if there is a difference between the good side idler and the problematic side idler.
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Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2014 at 4:15pm
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Actually the left idler is in a little better condition than the right but the rail is worst to the left side, bearings are smooth with no play. When I had them a little more tight than I cared to go(less than 1 1/2" flex at the wide spot) the rails still droop like four inches below the bottom rollers, only keeps contact to the front one and the idler, just time to get them off.
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Posted By: michale34
Date Posted: 09 Jul 2014 at 11:48am
I had a hd6 one time and the track wanted to crawl off the right side on a hard turn even with a new set of rails and idler I found out the a frame was bent to another one off a burnt dozer and it took care of the problem
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Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 09 Jul 2014 at 5:17pm
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Long as we move forward the rails hang tough, just reverse that gets loose.
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