Pulling Forum - aftermarket kits

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aftermarket kits

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Forum Name: Pulling Forum
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=86350
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Topic: aftermarket kits

Posted By: 200 allis
Subject: aftermarket kits
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2014 at 3:54pm

I was taking my rods out to have them harden and found more problems rings stuck and crack on piston. Was wondering if the after market rebuild kits will hold up to pulling.

figured i would send pistons and rings and rods are to get harden.

Replies:

Posted By: O.P.S. Heads
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2014 at 6:18pm

At the level of power you are at you should not be having these sort of troubles other than the bent connecting rods. OEM pistons, rings, and sleeves should be just fine for you.

You can't harden a cast piston or a ring to my knowledge.

Posted By: 200 allis
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2014 at 6:38pm

I didn't expect all these problems. I was wondering if the rings were stuck from sitting tractor had sat for 15 to 18 years only has 1500 original hours

Posted By: 200 allis
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2014 at 6:42pm

Last pull egt were 1600 if that would do it

Posted By: O.P.S. Heads
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2014 at 7:06pm

If your rings were stuck prior to pulling it you would think it would start hard and take lots of ether to get it going. Did it? With that said, too much ether will crack the pistons between the ring lands. Is that where it's broke?

We previously talked about injection pump timing:

1 - Are you sure your pump is marked / timed correctly? Who did your pump?

2 - What is the spray angle on your injectors in relation to the bottom of the cylinder head? If it is a really flat pattern (like 10 degrees or less) it may be causing problems. To the pistons a very flat spray angle may look like too much timing.

3 - Be sure the outer ring of the front crank pulley (with the timing marks) has not slipped on the rubber isolator. That doesn't happen very often, but it can happen.

Posted By: 200 allis
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2014 at 7:24pm

Before I changed the head on pump it started right up. Made one pull since I put bigger head on it. It had made a full pull that day and over scales parked at trailer to take weights off idling, shut off started back up and cylinder was missing.

Posted By: 200 allis
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2014 at 7:28pm

I had taking pump and injectors to highly recommended guy and he sent pump out and when I got it back note had said timing removed from pump and set at 35 degrees.

Posted By: 200 allis
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2014 at 7:33pm

I will have to check pulley I don't think it has moved. I'm kind of new at this stuff and learning as I go but didn't expect this much. O.P.S Heads I appreciate the information u have been very helpful. It's nice to get answers from guys that know instead of guess.

Posted By: 200 allis
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2014 at 7:42pm

After all that when had to move it a couple of times it took some fluid to get it started at home unless that's when the damage was done.

Posted By: 200 allis
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2014 at 7:44pm

I don't know the spray angle is it something I can check

Posted By: O.P.S. Heads
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2014 at 7:44pm

Well you need to overhaul the engine no matter what. Don't spend good money on new pistons. Find some nicely used pistons, clean them up, check them over well and if they are in good shape use them with a new set of rings. Same goes for the sleeves. Good used will work just fine.

I don't know what "removed the timing from the pump" means unless the advance was locked.

Is this a 180, 185, or 190?

Why don't you email me at opsheads@hotmail.com. I have a few more questions and inexpensive recommendations that may help you while you have things apart.

Posted By: 200 allis
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2014 at 7:51pm

I was going to order a rebuild kit. The advance was locked and it is a 200

Posted By: O.P.S. Heads
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2014 at 7:57pm

OK a model 200. I guess you mentioned that before. Send me an email.

If you have any video, post it. Let's see what you've got.

Posted By: 2wise4agm
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2014 at 8:53pm

Not to hijack your guys thread here, but I overhauled my 190 and used new pistons/sleeves. Knowing that I was going to be pulling it and throwing a lot of fuel to it, I had the machine shop hone the new sleeves out a little bit so the clearances weren't so tight. Mine had some pitting on the coolant side so I didn't want to reuse them. Just something to think about. Good luck.

Posted By: 200 allis
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2014 at 9:05pm

My sleeves except for one still have cross hatches thought about using them but pistons cost as much as kit

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2014 at 9:42pm

Better use legit 200 or 7000-7010-7020 pistons at 15 to 1 compression and not 180-190-190XT pistons at 16 to 1 compression.

Posted By: O.P.S. Heads
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2014 at 9:47pm

Yes with your sleeves only having 1500 hrs. on them they should be perfect, Hone em and run em.

Do what you want on the pistons, but you can probably buy good used 15:1 pistons for $10.00 each. Save the money and spend it on things that actually make it go faster. If you want to buy new sleeves and pistons, you may as well by my 341 C.I. drop in kit and have 40 more cubic inches for the same money as a new 301 kit.

No matter what you do you need to have your connecting rods heat treated. Be careful where you send them to have that done. It's much more of a scientific process than just heating them up until they are orange and dropping them in a bucket of oil.

Posted By: 200 allis
Date Posted: 14 Mar 2014 at 7:08am

Is cryogenic treating rods the way to go

Posted By: O.P.S. Heads
Date Posted: 16 Mar 2014 at 3:24pm

I have never cryo'd anything so I have no experience with it. I have heard it's a good process which makes things stronger. I have experience with properly heat treated rods and know they work well.