Looking for advice on pulling hitch
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Other Topics
Forum Name: Pulling Forum
Forum Description: Forum dedicated to Tractor and Garden Pulling
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=73695
Printed Date: 23 Nov 2024 at 10:10pm
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Topic: Looking for advice on pulling hitch
Posted By: ChuckLuedtkeSEWI
Subject: Looking for advice on pulling hitch
Date Posted: 18 Jul 2013 at 6:03pm
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Last year was my first year pulling the d19 and it did pretty well. I used the stock drawbar and mount but I shortened the drawbar so that I could put a Cleviis right behind the stock drawbar support. Crued but I works. Doing this helped but I am still 26-27 inches behind the axle centerline and its not that easy to adjust up and down to get between the 18" and 20" drawbar height differences at some of the local pulls. If I use the pins in the drawbar support it is fine at 18" but it is too high in the next position for 20" So I am looking for some advice as to hitch ideas and also opinions on whether it is better or worse too get to close to the rear axle. Will I get to the point where it will hurt performance and not help? I was thinking of taking off the stock drawbar support and making a mount that goes straight down from the back of the rearend and shorten things up the there. And then fab some way to adjust it up and down. Just so everyone knows I pull in the 7000-8500 farm stock classes usually paced at a top speed of 5 mph. Here is a picture of what I have now. I pulled last night and the tractor ran great but I was run over by a lot of other tractors. I do think a d19 diesel won the class so that's a good note. http://s1238.photobucket.com/user/chuckdog1/media/image_zps0debfc4e.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">  ------------- 1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221 |
Replies:
Posted By: thendrix
Date Posted: 18 Jul 2013 at 7:29pm
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I don't know anything about pulling but it seems to me you would be better off to get closer to the axle. Seems to me a longer drawbar would work just like a lever with the rear tires being the pivot. Further away, more of a lever, easier to pick the front end up. As far as adjusting goes, can you drill some holes between the existing holes to get some more adjustment? |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 18 Jul 2013 at 7:48pm
| You need to cut that angle iron above the drawbar and raise it up. Then use shims or long threaded bolts to raise/lower the drawbar to the height you want it to be. Anytime you can shorten the drawbar to the minimum length (usually 18 inches from center of the rear wheels) the tractor will generally perform better as lone as you can balance it with it that short. |
Posted By: ChuckLuedtkeSEWI
Date Posted: 18 Jul 2013 at 9:50pm
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Thanks for the input guys. I have close to 2000 lbs of weights to move around. By shortening the drawbar up, do I need to move weight forwards or backwards? ------------- 1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221 |
Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 19 Jul 2013 at 3:10am
| Make it all adjustable but so it can lock in place too, found out with a 180 that some tracks a longer hitch point preformed better |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 19 Jul 2013 at 11:18am
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Around here you can not use a twist clevis. If I was doing it I would not use the swinging drawbar. I would cut a hole in a flat bar stock and bolt it fast to where your drawbar is pined. I would then cut the braces off that go to the pulling point under the axle. I would put two turn buckles in places of the braces. I would set it up for the standard pulling height and distance back from the axle with the turnbuckle adjustment in the center of the threads. That will let you raise the hitch point by extending the turnbuckle or lower it by retracting the turnbuckle. It would swivel at the top pins. Your main pulling load would be on the turnbuckles. You might want to build it from scratch. The turnbuckles need to be at the bottom at the pulling point and swivel from the top holes in your upper brackets. If your clever you can find an advantage also at the front turnbuckle anchor point. I watched a fellow win constantly with the type of setup I just described. I started standing beside the track when he would start to pull and discovered his secret.  I raised and lowered this drawbar with turnbuckles but would have changed the turnbuckles to the bottom if I would have kept on pulling. |