hd5g main and right steering clutch problems
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Construction and other equipment
Forum Description: everything else with orange (or yellow) paint
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=50648
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Topic: hd5g main and right steering clutch problems
Posted By: baker84
Subject: hd5g main and right steering clutch problems
Date Posted: 16 May 2012 at 11:45am
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I haven't tried to adjust anything yet. But my main clutch has tons of play in and the previos owner notched the floor and battery box to get more movement out of it bit it still doesn't snap. Any ideas? Then there's the right steering clutch tons of play and it looks like all the adjustment is taken up already. And it doesn't let go. Any ideas? Thanks Stephen |
Replies:
Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 16 May 2012 at 11:55am
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On the main clutch there is a adjustment to the pressure plate , look into the inspection plate on rt side of bellhousing . You will see the notches in the pressure plate to adjust it . It is held by a bolt that is loosened then using bar turn the plate a couple notches to get the required lever movement and release of clutch. Also there are blocks that ride in the yoke of the throw out lever , if these are worn or arms are worn they need to be replaced. These wear as well as the brass sleeve if machine is left idling with the clutch disengaged . It should always be left with transmission in NEUTRAL and master clutch engaged if setting and engine running. On steering clutch then is worn or the slop in the throw out bearing is to much , also one can move the arm to get a new position on shaft to take up some slop. Might be time to pull the full clutch and measure stack height as well as make sure it isn't rusted together . ------------- Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something. "Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 16 May 2012 at 11:59am
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You can try cleaning the steering clutch , if they slip they can be washed out by installing a 3/4" pipe plug into case drain on bottom of machine , pouring 4 gallons of solvent into case and running machine and operating clutches. Then drain case and run machine on light work until clutch dries out. Be sure to clean and keep drain hole open on case unless working in water where it may flood case . Never leave plugs in case drain holes and clean inside of cases well to keep junk from plugging drain holes. ------------- Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something. "Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
Posted By: baker84
Date Posted: 16 May 2012 at 12:42pm
| I was looking at the steering clutch arm and it is pulled forward more than the other. I thought maybe it was splined and I could reset it back. But after looking at the parts diagram it looks to be a keyway? I will have to take off the inspectoin cover and see just what I have going on. |
Posted By: baker84
Date Posted: 17 May 2012 at 10:14pm
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Ok so i started to take some things apart and here is what i found. The right steering clutch throwout bearing and its brass counterpart the crown shaped piece are toast. As are the needle bearings in the linkage going threw the housing. On the main clutch everything looks good under the inspection cover but the rod connecting the clutch lever to the linkage on the bell housing is almost a "u" shape. It looks like it should have a little bend but not nearly to the extent that it is. So any tips in removing the steering clutch or the inner drive flange? Does anybody have a good part number for the needle bearings in the clutch linkage the clutch levers and the main clutch lever? And i seem to be missing a pin on the under side? See pictures thanks Stephen     |
Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 17 May 2012 at 10:46pm
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With the track that is on there i can see why that pin broke, them is dozer tracks with grouser bars, made for pushing not for turning with a loaded bucket. Send me a e-mail address and will send the section on PDF file on steering clutch. With that pin missing (broken) the load on the outboard bearing on truck frame is taking all the strain of the full truck frame , I would check to be sure the axle isnt broken also and the bearing shot.
------------- Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something. "Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 18 May 2012 at 12:06pm
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PDF sent ------------- Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something. "Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
Posted By: baker84
Date Posted: 18 May 2012 at 12:16pm
| Thanks for the pdf. Have you pulled the inner drive hub? Do you have a picture of th puller you used? I'm thinking I will have to make one. Any ideas would be great. |
Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 18 May 2012 at 1:09pm
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Bar with the flange bolted to it and center jack screw. I used a small porta-power jack cylinder with a 3 point plate bolted to flange. ------------- Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something. "Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
Posted By: dadsdozerhd5b
Date Posted: 20 May 2012 at 9:19pm
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i have a used pin that is broken on your machine and maybe the cap that belongs holding it. pm me if interested. i use a special puller made of a solid round piece with holes drilled in it to match the drive flange and a short center bolt to push with. good luck ------------- HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE. |
Posted By: DonBC
Date Posted: 21 May 2012 at 10:16pm
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If you don't want to try and find proper pads for a loader you can always torch off the grousers to leave about 1/2". ------------- Jack of all trades, master of none |
Posted By: baker84
Date Posted: 22 May 2012 at 11:04pm
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I thinking I could cut them down to reduce the strain. Kind of a shame since there in good shape. Anyone kind of local want to trade? Making some progress found all the parts I need and ordered the bearings to rebuild the controlls. Does anybody have a part number for the oil, fuel and hydraulic filters? Thanks |
Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 22 May 2012 at 11:25pm
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The 3 filters on the engine are the only ones there . The top of the filter cans has the A/C filter number which should cross to Fram , the small filter under the muffler is the same as a oil burner filter , a spun cotton string filter . I replaced the fuel and oil filters with spin on filters using a bracket I made myself to take PH8A filters. On the other filter I got a 10 micron 10" long filter for AMF Cuno filter (a resin type material) and cut 2 filters out of the one filter. Hard to find the cotton ones but I did have a large centervac chiller that used the same filter in it's oil system. ------------- Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something. "Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 22 May 2012 at 11:31pm
------------- Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something. "Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 22 May 2012 at 11:36pm
Pads for the loader with welded on rebar to get a shade more traction and extend pad life. Notice only 2 bars welded on and back and front only as to access track bolts it allowed more room for socket. 
------------- Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something. "Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
Posted By: baker84
Date Posted: 23 May 2012 at 10:20pm
My filter setup.  I thought this way a hydraulic filter?  Starting to rebuild the controls, turned a shaft for the steering clutch handles.  |
Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 23 May 2012 at 10:26pm
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One other shaft or piece to check is the one in the shift tower, there is a pin and shaft there that wears . The two large bolt heads are removed and this lifts out. Also time ot check the end of the shifter for wear as the ball type end wears down and will jump out of shift forks. The HD5G with the offset lever on trany wears out the yoke and the pin as well as that shaft . ------------- Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something. "Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
Posted By: baker84
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2012 at 5:02pm
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i have been working away at this slowly and finally got it in usable shape. I ended up replacing the right side axle because of a stripped sprocket nut. here are a couple of pictures  made a new master pin one end is about .004 bigger then the other because the hole was slightly stretched.   |
Posted By: baker84
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2012 at 5:17pm
| One more thing the right steering clutch brake needs to be relined does anybody have a good source for that? Only place that i have found was this place. http://www.tpaktopc.net/achd5strcltch.htm" rel="nofollow - http://www.tpaktopc.net/achd5strcltch.htm |
Posted By: dadsdozerhd5b
Date Posted: 01 Oct 2012 at 6:58pm
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that does not seem bad for the lining. i was going to suggest them. i have not bought anything from them yet. nice looking repair to your hd5g. i hope you tightened that nut well, i think it is supposed to be 1500 ft.lbs. if i remember right. just got done replacing an axle on my hd5b and i put oil in it and the oil seeped out along the bolts for the outer seal. i drained it and have to silicone the bolts. never thought that would happen. i also just pulled my steering clutch to repair throwout bearing due to mice making home in it and seizing it up. luckily they did not get into the clutch. ------------- HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE. |
Posted By: ac_sd
Date Posted: 02 Oct 2012 at 12:35am
| I've got a good steering clutch with brake band, and probably have the clutch parts you need also. I'm in the San Diego area. |
Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 02 Oct 2012 at 8:38am
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Check with some of the independent brake shops that do truck brakes , the material used for the brake band is also used on some trucks and is sold in rolls and used for emergency brakes and such . McMaster/Carr also has material listed I believe for industrial brake lining. ------------- Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something. "Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
Posted By: baker84
Date Posted: 02 Oct 2012 at 12:47pm
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I think mcmaster might be the way to go. Thanks coke. Might anyone know the width and rivet size for the brake bands would you use high or low friction material? As for tightening the sprocket I used the hammer then tighten and repeat method. With my home-made wrench out of 1/2in plate and a ten pound hammer. It was a chore but i have been checking it, and it's staying tight.
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Posted By: dadsdozerhd5b
Date Posted: 02 Oct 2012 at 4:56pm
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i would think low friction material as if the clutch disengages well, it should not take much to stop the track. i have a band out so i will measure it tomorrow. i would think high friction material would wear the drum alot. my $.02. ------------- HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE. |