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Boiling a Block

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=45717
Printed Date: 10 Sep 2025 at 11:25am
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Topic: Boiling a Block
Posted By: kschab92
Subject: Boiling a Block
Date Posted: 16 Feb 2012 at 7:52pm
I would like to get my wc block boiled. Just wondering if I need to remove my sleeves if i want to? And if i have to can i put the old sleeves back in?



Replies:
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 16 Feb 2012 at 7:58pm
Best take em out and at least replace the o-rings when you re-assemble it.
 I "boiled my WC block myself with some old lawn mower blades, a plastic barrel and my little battery charger. Came out as clean as the Studebaker block that was baked and shot peened.
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm" rel="nofollow - http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm


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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: kschab92
Date Posted: 16 Feb 2012 at 8:01pm
The only thing i am concerned about is the wear on the sleeves and putting the back in the same exact spot they came out. Would honing them take care of this?


Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 16 Feb 2012 at 8:08pm
If the sleeves are wore, it will be on the inside. You have to measure taper and diameter to determine if they are any good. I t has nothing to do with how the fit in the block. If the block needs cleaned, the sleeves need to come out. Clean and polish the sealing area where the o-rings go and check the c'bore the sleeve sets in.

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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: kschab92
Date Posted: 16 Feb 2012 at 8:12pm
I know they wear on the inside thats why I am worried they are a little out of round but not bad. Should I just mark them somehow exactly how they come out?


Posted By: CAL(KS)
Date Posted: 16 Feb 2012 at 8:17pm
you will be going through a lot of work only to reinstall used and possibly questionable parts.  keep that in mind

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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20

Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15


Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 16 Feb 2012 at 8:19pm
Well if there is some egg to the bore, why not turn them 90 degrees when you put it back together ?  If you are worried about putting them back exactly the way they came out, you're worrying about the wrong thing in my mind. Worry about bore size and egg and taper. If they are out of tolerance, replace them. A complete kit with sleeves and pistons isn't much more $ than buying gaskets,bearings,etc all separate.

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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF


Posted By: stray
Date Posted: 16 Feb 2012 at 9:10pm
Don't boil with the sleeves in there is a good chance that you will damage the Orings and be taking them out anyway after you get the engine back together and then find it leaking coolant in to the crankcase. I've been there and done that before, not my decsion but I was the one got to do the work. If you have the sleeves out and there is a measurable wear replace, agian I've learned a long time ago that if something is worth doing it is worth doing right.

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1969 190XT series 3


Posted By: Thad in AR.
Date Posted: 17 Feb 2012 at 5:39am
Don't forget to remove the cam bearings and freeze plugs also.



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