ac wd questions
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=45467
Printed Date: 11 Sep 2025 at 1:32am
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Topic: ac wd questions
Posted By: southerland_1
Subject: ac wd questions
Date Posted: 12 Feb 2012 at 7:23pm
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I recently picked up a 49 WD that I'm trying to restore. I just have a few questions. 1. Can you adjust the dreading brakes and what are there lubrications? 2... I havnt really tried but just got it running but havnt been able to get it into 1st or 2nd gear. 3rd...how is the belt drive activated?
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Replies:
Posted By: southerland_1
Date Posted: 12 Feb 2012 at 7:23pm
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 12 Feb 2012 at 7:31pm
The belt pulley is engaged by backing out the set screw, pushing the pulley in and tightening the set screw. This must be done with the engine off or the clutch pedal locked down. Myself, I would have the engine OFF. The pulley, when engaged, turns whenever the foot clutch is engaged.
Brakes can be tightened up by removing the cover plate and then center the brake bands with a screw on the back of the housing.
If you want, you can use universal hydraulic fluid in both the hydraulics and the tranny & differential. Most people use gear lube in the final drives but hytran universal would also work in them, just might leak a little easier if seals or gaskets are weak.
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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 12 Feb 2012 at 7:33pm
Click on the "allis store" at the top of this page and find a manual for your tractor. I t will be the best investment you make after buying the WD.
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http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Posted By: Tony Elo
Date Posted: 12 Feb 2012 at 7:37pm
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yes you can adjust them,there are two plates you have to remove,they have a little bump on them,the one for the right brake is right under your seat,the left brake is closer to the other fender with the tool box.Take the plates off each side,there is an adjuster under them.As for startind your belt pulley,assuming it is on the tractor,loosend the lock nut on top of it,slide the pulley in towards the frame,you will fell the teeth engage,retighten the lock nut.do this with the engine not running.When you start the engine with the pulley locked in,depressing the foot clutch will stop it,it will run all the time when the foot clutch is out,hope this helps,Tony
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Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 12 Feb 2012 at 8:05pm
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Most (all?) pulleys have several holes in a spiral that the set screw goes in.They provide different gear lash. You need to pick the one that gives a tiny bit of gear play. Too tight or loose isn't good. Buy an AC manual.The I&T are only good if you already know the info.They're too sketchy.
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Posted By: Brian G. NY
Date Posted: 12 Feb 2012 at 8:42pm
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I bumped up the post "Brake Adjustment, WD-45" in which I posted a page from the manual.
I agree, a set of manuals is the best tool you can buy for your tractor.
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Posted By: southerland_1
Date Posted: 12 Feb 2012 at 9:39pm
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I am more concerned with the seeming lack of first and second gear than anything...I've pulled the brake covers off and blew the rats nests out of them....the brakes work decent but have a ton of pedal travel
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Posted By: j.w.freck
Date Posted: 13 Feb 2012 at 9:31pm
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you are right as rain steve,if you get the bevel gears too tighy or to loose you can really create metal particles or broken teeth real quick.i like to set it up with .005-.006 pulley backlash.you know the bevels are getting lubed and not too tght...
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Posted By: Bob D. (La)
Date Posted: 14 Feb 2012 at 4:25am
Don't know if this will help at all but happened to me. I had a WC that needed a new shiftboot. I purchased one and installed it. Then, I could no longer get it to shift into first gear, though in my case second was still OK. Last summer at one of the shows I talked with one of the vendors. No known differences in the boots. Bought another new one and installed it. Now shifts fine.
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When you find yourself in a hole,PUT DOWN THE SHOVEL!!!
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Posted By: southerland_1
Date Posted: 14 Feb 2012 at 5:57am
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I pulled the shifter tower and it by itself won't move into 1st or 2nd =/
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Posted By: Bill Long
Date Posted: 14 Feb 2012 at 6:45am
You may check your shifter to be certain you have a "straight" gear shift lever. Some of the very late WD's had a curved shift lever with the constant mesh helical gear transmission.
You probably have the straight stick and a straight gear transmission. Sounds like a shifter rod is frozen.
I will do this from an older memory and I sincerely hope others will chime in. There are plugs at the end of the shifter housing that line up with the shifter rails. Remove them and see if you can "coax" the shifter rail to move. Be careful if you look down on the housing cause there is a spring loaded detent ball that can pop out and cause damage to your face. Wear safety glasses. Seems like once you get the rails moving and oiled should work.
I do hope others will chime in here cause my memory is OK but shaky on this item.
Let us know how it goes.
Congratulations on you new purchase.
Good Luck!
Bill Long
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