flatbed trailer suggestions
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=39061
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Topic: flatbed trailer suggestions
Posted By: Brad(WI)
Subject: flatbed trailer suggestions
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2011 at 8:19pm
| I am looking at buying a new trailer. Bumper pull, 12k or 14k, deckover with beavertail. Will use it for hauling tractors, bales, farm stuff. Not a lot of miles a year. Current trailer is HD, but no brakes. Gets a little dangerous fully loaded with bales behind a F150. Any brands to avoid, or what are good ones. Most local is Big-O's, seem a little spendy. I've looked at PJ's, they seem like a good value. What should I look for, axle wise. |
Replies:
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2011 at 9:11pm
| 12,000 to 14,000 pound trailer BUMPER hitch on an F150??????? |
Posted By: Orange Blood
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2011 at 9:13pm
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I like the PJs, the Big Tex Mexs are real spendy, but the quality is good, I don't know about it being better than anyone elses. I would amek sure you go with the 7K axles, and brakes, as you said. On trailers like these the biggest thing is going to be lighting, and the quality of the lights, and the protection of the wire. If the manufacture simply drills/cuts holes in the frame and threads wire through to the lights, I would shy away, the really good ones run it in conduit or some other means of protection, look at the connectors are they heat shrink glue style or simple crimps, are the lights the newer sealed LED or the old bulb. Those are going to be your maintenance items. Also look for ease of greesing the hubs, I have seen, rare but seem some 7K axles in oil bath style, but probably hard to come by, but that would really be the ticket. Otherwise zerks in the ends of the caps make if nice. ------------- Still in use: HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060 Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7 |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2011 at 9:22pm
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I'm with the good Dr on 12K to 14K bumper hitch on an F150. Not a smart idea. You need to be looking at goosenecks... ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: XT in pa
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2011 at 9:26pm
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i have a kaughman trailer ist 14000 gvw 20ft deck and 4ft beavertail i have hauled my 7045 ac at 14500 lbs i kno way over weight but ut handeled it great its a gooseneck tho i dont like how bumper trailers pull
Shawn ------------- 190XT,D17and 7045 |
Posted By: John (C-IL)
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2011 at 9:31pm
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I have a 25+5 Cornpro and a 21+6 Cornpro Tiltbed. THey are both great trailers and the tiltbed would be a good hay hauler but is limited as a tractor hauler because you can only load one at a time. The 25+5 has the convertible beaver tail so you could have the best of both worlds. CornPro has a web site where you can check their offerings.
http://www.cornprotrailers.com/home.html - http://www.cornprotrailers.com/home.html
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Posted By: JohnCO
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2011 at 9:36pm
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Have you considered just replacing the axles on your current trailer? For a grand or less you could find some good axles with brakes and newer tires.
------------- "If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer" Allis Express participant |
Posted By: BennyLumpkin
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2011 at 9:47pm
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I have a Moritz 14K that has 22ft of deck.....it is the best trailer I've ever owned.
------------- Central PA Allis Express 1934 WC254 1945 WF 1945 WC135755 1951 WD68085 1953 WD45-150217 1957 WD45D-230744D B110 |
Posted By: Boogerowen
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2011 at 9:47pm
| All this with a 150 ?.....sounds like an accident looking for a place to happen !! |
Posted By: Brad(WI)
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2011 at 10:02pm
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Yes, behind a 150. Big loads I will put the 250 or 350 on it, but my main vehicle is a 2004 F150. It has a higher towing rating than my old 92 250 Dodge w the cummins. I don't want to own a 10k trailer and a bigger trailer. Most loads will be from field to farm. Would like a nice reliable trailer for heading to auctions. I checked into new axles, but the hitch needs to be redone and its starting to rust, could use new planking. Would like a new or nearly new one
. |
Posted By: skip(MO)
Date Posted: 16 Oct 2011 at 10:14pm
| i have an H&H car hauler. i've only used it to haul materials, so i'm wishing i would have bought the deckover w/ 7k axles. it's been a good trailer. very sturdy jack, wires ran in conduit, boxed framing, lifetime warranty on the treated deck. i know they make a light and heavy duty version of the deckover. they're also out of iowa, so depending on how far you are from the plant, i guess that'll affect price. |
Posted By: SHAMELESS
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2011 at 1:34am
| dunno...if i've ever seen...a deck over bumper pull! |
Posted By: TexasAllis
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2011 at 7:11am
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Brian Jasper co. Ia wrote:Posted By: PaulRoidt(WI)
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2011 at 7:15am
| CORN PRO, My gooseneck is 1998 with no problems at all only a burn't out light or two and regular service. |
Posted By: B26240
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2011 at 7:21am
| I have 2 PJ's one car hauler 7k and a gooseneck at 14k -- like em both |
Posted By: d17brown
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2011 at 7:44am
| i can build you a trailer any way you want it, built about 15 in last 10 years,any axel or brakes type, |
Posted By: David(Stockbridge)MI
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2011 at 7:46am
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PJ....I have a 20' deck over bumber pull 14,000 lb and pull with 2004 F150 4x4 super crew 5.4L and haul 3 pallets of fertizler with no problems, have 1,000 lb torshion bars and sway control. ------------- All "NEW" Web Site http://www.djstractorparts.com 2035,A,U,UC,WF unstyled,WF styled,WC High Crop (cane),RC,B,IB,C,CA,WD,WD45,G,D10,D12,D14,D15,D15 II,D17,D19,WC styled,WC unstyled H3 crawler |
Posted By: Matt MN
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2011 at 8:32am
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I do see alot of these in my area, Personally I would use a weight distributing hitch if it were pulled behind a 1/2 ton truck. These can put alot of weight on the hitch. Keep in mind these were designed as tag trailers behind dump trucks. A friend of mine has one and it makes his F-350 squatt with his skidloader on it.
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/bfs/2573947015.html - http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/bfs/2573947015.html ------------- Unless your are the lead horse the scenery never changes!! |
Posted By: one54dodgetruck
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2011 at 8:41am
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I like my new trailer Andrew  ------------- 2 WDs B B112 D14 D15 shuttle 180 185 7040 Hd7w D14 D15 185 7040 pd |
Posted By: Larry(OH)
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2011 at 8:54am
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I have an "F" neck Moritz tandem dual and love it. No problems other than a light bulb or dirty plug (my fault). The nice thing about the "F" neck is it lays forward and gives you alot more room on the deck for loading. You can back a tractor right to the front of the trailer and the tires and neck do not get in each others way. I personally think the Moritz and the Corn Pro are the best out there and ther are ALOT of them both in our area
http://moritzinternational.com/flatbed-trailers-f-series.php - http://moritzinternational.com/flatbed-trailers-f-series.php ------------- '40 WC puller,'50 WD puller,'50 M puller '65 770 Ollie *ALLIS EXPRESS contact* I can explain it to you, BUT I cannot understand it for you!! |
Posted By: Denis in MI
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2011 at 10:27am
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I have a Moritz F series gooseneck too. I have been very happy with it. Mine is a 20ft deck with 5 ft dovetail that will lift up flat with the deck. Only problem with it is I wish I had bought heavier axles. Mine is 14500 gvw and I find that I am at or over the trailers capacity on almost every load I haul, the trailer has never gave me any trouble hauling but my next trailer will be heavier duty. ------------- 1938 B, 1945 B, 1941 IB, 1949 C, 2 1938 WCs, 3 1950 WDs, 1951 WD, 2 1955 WD45, 1957 D-14 |
Posted By: TomYaz
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2011 at 12:05pm
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I got a PJ 102" x 22' bumper 14K lb tilt deckover w/ winch for my 96 2500 Ram. No problems but I dont load it very heavy - Most I ever loaded was an all-crop 3500 lbs or so. Love it. ------------- If its not an All-Crop, it all crap! |
Posted By: DanWi
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2011 at 12:40pm
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Saw a b and b from somewhere in iowa, at an event this summer looked like a nice trailer, anybody know anything about them? |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2011 at 1:31pm
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You really need to look onto the trailer you are thinking of buying and pull it around the block/section a coupla times. I have a pintle adapter for a Reese hitch and my son hooked onto my 14K GVW trailer empty with a Ford 3/4 ton. It jerked it around real bad and he decided it was to much for him to use. However you can put two 7K axles under a much lighter trailer which could make a good match.
My trailer weighs 4000 pounds empty. I have had my truck and trailer into Texas, OK, Ak, MO, TN, Ky, NJ, PA, NY as well as MI, IN, IL with me in N.W. Ohio. It pulls like a dream behind my E 350 at any speed I want to roll. Loaded or empty.
 |
Posted By: 70Standard
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2011 at 5:11pm
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I have a bumper hitch tandem axle deckover wtih beaver tail. Has two 14,000 axles with brakes. Trailer weighs 3,700 pounds empty, so leaves ~10,000 pounds for payload. I've had it loaded up to close to capacity with a couple of tractors, and it pulls fine behind my 2002 F250 diesel. Had to buy a 15,000 pound rated receiver (stock Ford unit was only rated for 6,000 pounds!) and appropriate hitch and ball. This also puts me at the 20,000 GCVW rating for the truck (truck weighs around 7,000 pounds). I'd be concerned that the correct amount of tongue weight would mash your F150 flat with such a heavy trailer. Lightening it up to not mash the truck would risk getting trailer-whipped. I've never had it happen, but a co-worker did when pulling a trailer load of 2x4s with a Ford Ranger. Trying to stop going downhill around a slight curve pushed the rear axle sideways, and folded things up from there. Experience says you can do lots of things with incorrect tools, until something unforeseen happens. If the neighbor kid runs out in front of you, will your F150 bring things to a stop in a safe and controlled manner? ------------- Roof Palomino (SN 224), Chetech Pug UTV, Three Green Tractors and one Red Tractor. |
Posted By: d17brown
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2011 at 8:43pm
| the B and B are made 1.5 miles from my house they are a good trailer and have good reputatuion |
Posted By: Joe(TX)
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2011 at 9:19pm
------------- 1970 190XT, 1973 200, 1962 D-19 Diesel, 1979 7010, 1957 WD45, 1950 WD, 1961 D17, Speed Patrol, D14, All crop 66 big bin, 180 diesel, 1970 170 diesel, FP80 forklift. Gleaner A |
Posted By: Dale-OH
Date Posted: 17 Oct 2011 at 9:49pm
| We are on our third Cornpro Gooseneck and would not own another current one is a 30+5 with 2 12K Axles. We also have a Moritz 21' Hydraulic Tilt Bumper Pull, I get along great with both of them and would have no problem taking either of them any where. |
Posted By: Brad(WI)
Date Posted: 18 Oct 2011 at 7:54am
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I have had both, and according to the label on the door, my F150 is rated higher. There is a big difference between 4 wheel disk brakes (ford) and rear drums (old dodge). My truck has more pulling power with a load, I have owned both. My concern isn't about pulling a heavy load, it can do that with ease. I'm worried about stopping that load. I don't want to turn this into a brand war, its simply old design vs newer stuff. They do make a gooseneck ball for a F150 too, as an employee has one and my neighbor is getting one. He's switching to a new f150 from 2 year old F350 diesel. He doesn't use the diesel enough to justify it. The loads he pulls (14k cornpro gooseneck) the 150 will handle.
|
Posted By: DanWi
Date Posted: 18 Oct 2011 at 9:23am
| I find myself in the same position as brad, I pull a 20 ft flatbed with a chev 1500 sometimes. At first that was all I had then I got a 3500 dually, always kept good tires and brakes on the 1500 and knew my limitations, the 3500 I haven't touched the brakes since I bought it used and I would say the 1500 stops better. One thing that helps when pulling with alighter truck is somekind of helper springs to keep the truck level and not put the nose in the air. A heavier longer wheelbase truck is always going to feel safer. |
Posted By: Kcgrain
Date Posted: 18 Oct 2011 at 9:50am
| Brad, stay away from Big O he is All hat and no cattle, go up to Johnson trailer in Colfax, Wi he isnt the most polite guy in the world but his brand of trailer is top notch, there made in Texas but have his label on "Road Warrior" . I bought a trailer from him years ago, has been excellent, and one of the easiest pulling trailer I ever hauled, borrowed it out a million times and everyone that uses it says the same thing. I bet I have sold 10 of his trailers, just from people using this one. Plus his prices are pretty hard to beat and he has probably 100 in stock so you can pick the color and options you want and drive away. |
Posted By: Rawleigh
Date Posted: 18 Oct 2011 at 10:15am
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Hudson and Eager Beaver also make excellent commercial grade trailers that meet your wish list. I have a 10k Hudson bumper pull and a 19K Eager Beaver triple axle Tag along with electric brakes. |
Posted By: Orange Blood
Date Posted: 18 Oct 2011 at 12:44pm
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I don't know how many of them are out there like you want, but Donahue makes a great trailer, just don't buy it new, a bit pricey. I love pulling the gooseneck version, and even the old machinery trailers pulled really well. ------------- Still in use: HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060 Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7 |
Posted By: tmiller
Date Posted: 18 Oct 2011 at 1:03pm
Andrew, what are you pulling that with?? Looks like a gooseneck? 34ft? |
Posted By: Butch(OH)
Date Posted: 20 Jun 2012 at 6:30am
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I have owned a Moritz since 2000 and itis been a trouble free unit however there are lots more good builders around most are somewhat regional. The trailer market is VERY competitive and everyone buys componants from same suppliers. What that means is you get what you pay for. You need to look under and over any trailer carefully before signing on. If you spec a trailer at X capacity and X length and it is $1500 cheaper than everyone else there is a reason for it, something is missing, or lighter duty you can bet the bank. In shopping around for a bargain you will be surprized how many have no paint anywhere it cant be seen walking around it, how many have floors and wiring that are a pure joke, used tires, no data plate, lighting and reflectors that dont meet DOT etc etc. Where the ramps?? Oh, those are extra $$$, etc etc etc
Good thing is none can be hidden from te buyer it's all out whereyou can see it, good luck.
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