180 PTO Coupling Jumping Out: Ideas?
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=32663
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Topic: 180 PTO Coupling Jumping Out: Ideas?
Posted By: nsula_country
Subject: 180 PTO Coupling Jumping Out: Ideas?
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2011 at 10:09am
I have a 180 with the hydraulic PTO. The sliding coupling keeps jumping out while mowing. Should I use wire or a welding rod and try to hold it in position. Yesterday I had to stop about 5-6 times and remove the battery cover to reach in and slide the coupling back in. It feels like there is a detent when it in engaged, but it is not holding it in place.
Ideas?
CT
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Replies:
Posted By: Hurst
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2011 at 4:27pm
I believe someone had this problem before, but on a tractor with a mechanical linkage PTO instead of the hydraulic, so that coupler got used a bit more. If I remember correctly, they opened it up (can't remember if it was a split or if there was a way to get to it through a cover or something) and used a drimmel or similar little grinder tool to clean up the splines on the shaft and either did the same to the coupler or replaced it. Again, it's been a few years since that post was on here, and my memory is a little fuzzy. Hopefully someone can chime in with better details or something else that would be worth trying.
Hurst
------------- 1979 Allis Chalmers 7000
5800 Hours
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Posted By: nsula_country
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2011 at 4:35pm
The splines feel good whenever you rotate the lever into position. The leaver also has a little "snap" when all the way in or all the way out. I am wondering if it is a weak detent spring/assembly or like you say there may be slack in the splines causing it to work out of position.
CT
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Posted By: Burgie
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2011 at 4:47pm
If it is like a 200 you can take the box down and put a sleeve (pipe) on the shaft to keep the coupler from going too far forward. You will have to use snap rings or something so the pipe don`t get into the cage on the bearing.
------------- "Burgie"
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Posted By: Skyhighballoon(MO)
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2011 at 4:52pm
Hurst - that was me on my 180.
If the splines are burred I would think there would be a tendency for the sliding splined coupler to stay engaged (stuck) on the rear PTO shaft and not work off. I'm guessing you are right about a weak detent. The manual PTO linkage isn't the smoothest mechanism in the world but it does do the job of holding the lever in place when engaged. I would not weld anything. Just use wire or a bungee cord/rubber tarp strap to hold it in place since the manual linkage does the same thing. Mike
------------- 1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex 1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330 1969 180 gas 1965 D17 S-IV gas 1963 D17 S-III gas 1956 WD45 gas NF PS 1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin 303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers
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Posted By: nsula_country
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2011 at 6:05pm
I guess I should have said beat the flux off a weld rod and use it as a restraint like a bungee cord or piece of wire. To hold it engaged. I have only had this tractor since February and have not used it much until recently. Overall it is a strong tractor, just a lot of small gremlins, like the PTO issue. Still $2690 was cheap for 65 PTO HP!
CT
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Posted By: AaronH
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2011 at 6:16pm
I didnt think the coupler ever disengaged with hyd pto. It ran off the clutch packs. I had an issue like this on my 200, but it had manual pto, and when I got in there, the splines on the pto shaft and the coupler were worn out. Replaced both.
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Posted By: nsula_country
Date Posted: 22 Jun 2011 at 6:25pm
AaronH, it is not supposed to. The hydraulic part works great. But for some reason when they went hydraulic, Allis Chalmers engineers felt the need to leave the manual part there. The manual coupling is working its way out till it disengages. Maybe an OC clutch will ease the pressure on the splines and keep it engaged?
CT
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