WD spin-out wheels
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=23873
Printed Date: 25 Jun 2024 at 5:36pm
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Topic: WD spin-out wheels
Posted By: Floodwoodflash
Subject: WD spin-out wheels
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2011 at 12:06pm
| Greetings all, I've been working on my recently aquired 52 WD, I finally tried to loosen the wheel locks to move the rear wheels out, I got 2 loose and that's it. Anybody have a suggestions on how to get them loose. Pulling the wheels off is out, loaded tires and lack of space, plus 2 feet of snow. I've been soaking the locks for about 6 months. Sears will replace 1/2 inch broken breaker bars, have 2 new ones now. TIA, Tim. |
Replies:
Posted By: Matt MN
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2011 at 12:24pm
|
Unfortunatly, you have been doing everything you can do with out removing the wheel. I guess the next step would be to use some heat on them to remove the rust. Also from the backside you can hit the center pin with a hammer to loosen up the rust. If that don't work then you will have to remove the wheel from the center section and take the cams apart and clean them up. ------------- Unless your are the lead horse the scenery never changes!! |
Posted By: Jeff(WD45-SATX-TN)
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2011 at 1:53pm
|
Welcome to the forum Flood!
When I did my WD45 a couple years ago, she was sitting outside for about 10 years, they were stuck good. Lost of PB Blaster and some good hits from the inside of the rim, right on the pin itself. I used a 6 pt impact socket on my 1/2" breaker bar. Then put the handle from my floor jack over that for a 5 ft cheater. Sounded like a shot gun when they finally broke loose. I snapped a shorty impact extension. Then went to a deep 6pt impact socket. By the time I had the first wheel done, the PB had done its work on the second. Those 4 turned pretty easy. Good luck, and be careful. Wear gloves and some eye protection! ------------- 1954 WD45 NF "Iron Tater" |
Posted By: Brian F(IL)
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2011 at 3:42pm
|
Don't use too much of a pipe extension or cheater bar. I twisted off the head on the eccentrics on my CA. FWIW.
Brian
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Posted By: pjs
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2011 at 4:22pm
| why not unbolt the assembly fromthe rim,just 2 bolts,put the assemble in stout bench viceandremove the lock ring at rear, drive pin to and fro using rust penetrant, and a bfh. in the past, trying to get them loose on the tractor i have broken extensions,sockets,breaker bars.rotate wheel to top and do one at a time, make it easy on your self. good luck! |
Posted By: Dave H
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2011 at 5:57pm
Same here, can't you do them one at a time. When in the vise the first thing I would give it is a good application of the rose bud. That is what Mine took, but I had all apart.
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pjs wrote:Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2011 at 6:29pm
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Take one complete assembly off at a time(2 bolts holding it to the wheel center). Clean and grease with never seize and replace. If you get it turning, your halfway there. After you get it to turn remove the snap-ring and pull the eccentric out to clean and grease inside.
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: DSeries4
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2011 at 8:53pm
|
The ones on my D14 and D15 were completely seized. Unbolted them from the wheel centers and removed them from rims. Right after that, I threw them into (not on!) my air tight wood stove and let them cook for an entire day! They loosened up real easy after that.
I took everything apart and sandblasted and primed all the pieces, so they should work real smooth now!
I tried the cutting torch earlier, but did not help at all. ------------- '49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080 |
Posted By: D-17_Dave
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2011 at 10:48pm
| Penetrating oil and a 3/4 air gun will do if you must leave them in the tractor. |
Posted By: TedBuiskerN.IL.
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2011 at 10:54pm
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I don't like the cooking in the stove idea. The shafts are heat treated steel, and I'm afraid you would soften them to much with that much heat for that long a period of time. ------------- Most problems can be solved with the proper application of high explosives. |
Posted By: Eldon (WA)
Date Posted: 11 Jan 2011 at 11:02pm
|
Jack up the rear end and rotate the wheel to a convenient spot for each and work the eccentrics back and forth with a couple of hammers, then use a big breaker bar on the socket. I've done a bunch of them and this has worked the best for me. If they are rusted so bad you can't recognize the snap rings on the back side, you will probably need to remove the whole wheel and find some better assemblies. ------------- ALLIS EXPRESS! This year: |
Posted By: B26240
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2011 at 7:24am
| Tim welcome aboard!! Im about 50 miles north of you. I like Eldons advice and others, Ive done a few and they are a big job. I have a friend in ND that broke his hand getting his loose so be carefull! Mark |
Posted By: Floodwoodflash
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2011 at 8:25pm
| Thanks for all the advice guys, I'll try moving them back and forth with a bfh first, if that won't work I'll pull them off one at a time. I know all about breaking body parts while working on tractors, blew my shoulder out this spring, keep on telling the wife that a $700.00 compressor would have been chaeper than a $1200.00 shoulder job. |
Posted By: Floodwoodflash
Date Posted: 12 Jan 2011 at 8:26pm
| oops, should have read $12,000.00 shoulder job. |