Engine Head Techical Question
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=22541
Printed Date: 13 Feb 2025 at 8:16am
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Topic: Engine Head Techical Question
Posted By: Wil M (NEIA)
Subject: Engine Head Techical Question
Date Posted: 19 Dec 2010 at 12:35pm
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Is it important to keep valve springs, keepers, guides and valves all labeled for each corresponding valve and piston postion?
Thanks
Wil ------------- "Yet there are soulless men whose hand and brain tear down what time will never give again." Anderson M Scruggs |
Replies:
Posted By: Lonn
Date Posted: 19 Dec 2010 at 2:08pm
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I wouldn't think keepers or springs would matter but my mechanics instructor had us each build a numbered rack to hold each valve and push rod so they would go back the same. If you are removing guides it would be to replace with new ones and of course we would check each spring for free length and amount of pressure required to compress to a given spec. ------------- -- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot |
Posted By: AllisChalmers37
Date Posted: 19 Dec 2010 at 2:17pm
I didn't when I took the ones out of my WC. Just make sure that the intake valves goes where the intake valves go and the exhaust valves go where they are supposed to go. ------------- 1937 WC, 1950 CA, 1959 D14, 1967 190XT, 2006 Ram 3500 |
Wil M (NEIA) wrote:Posted By: Wil M (NEIA)
Date Posted: 19 Dec 2010 at 2:28pm
Thanks Lonn, I remember making numbered racks for the push rods in Ag Mech class and Auto Mech but I don't remember doing it for the valves etc. Course we replaced or reground the valves on the 2 motors I had apart. I don't think these valves need reground, just maybe refaced or at the least cleaned up and de gunked.
Wil ------------- "Yet there are soulless men whose hand and brain tear down what time will never give again." Anderson M Scruggs |
Posted By: 427435
Date Posted: 19 Dec 2010 at 2:37pm
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The things that are important to keep matched up are the lifters themselves. The other things won't matter if you are grinding the valves before re-assembly.
------------- Mark B10 Allis, 917 Allis, 7116 Simplicity, 7790 Simplicity Diesel, GTH-L Simplicity Ignorance is curable-----stupidity is not. |
Posted By: Gerald J.
Date Posted: 19 Dec 2010 at 2:51pm
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Its only good for one end of the push rod if you don't keep track of the rocker arm positions too. From 64 to about 71 I drove a new VW 1200 beetle bought new. In 95K miles it had 3 or 4 valve jobs, always a notch in the number 3 exhaust valve. Valve was supposed to rotate by the valve adjustment screw being off center. But didn't and that number 3 corner of the engine got poorer cooling because of the oil cooler in the air shroud. I suspect the VW mechanics were careful to keep the keepers in the same place too and never replaced keepers or rocker arm. While I was in the army I ran it too low on oil from a worn flywheel seal, and wrecked that engine. I picked up a 1500 engine from a sideswiped 67 VW from a junk yard and with some modifications put it in. It really ran well, but about 71 or 72, I did a valve job just in case and put in steel valve guides in place of the proper aluminum bronze guides hoping for longer valve guide life. One day it went, "BRRRAP" and locked up. And I hadn't wound it out hard that day. When I dragged it home and took the engine apart again, I found #3 exhaust valve had broken and the head of the valve was stuck in a hole in the middle of the piston on edge. Couldn't turn that engine more than about 300 degrees between where it would stop. Being it was a sodium filled valve, it made heating the piston to get the wrist pin out rather sparkly using a propane torch. I went back to aluminum bronze valve guides in the one head I could save and the new head and I removed the oil cooler from the housing replaced by an aftermarket cooler at the fan intake. When Sears delivered the rebuild kit a few weeks late it was a big bore kit. That engine ran at least 50K miles without being out again, of course with the added displacement it was never run continuously at full throttle because with the front wheels in the air from aerodynamics above 87 there wasn't any steering at high speeds. The oil cooler change dropped the oil temperature at highway speeds from the dip stick melting a mark in my finger, to being just hot to my finger. I suppose I kept the pushrods in order, but when the valves needed adjusting every 4000 miles, I'm not sure it mattered very much about keeping the pushrods in the same mating parts of lifters and rocker arms. Eventually it did get old changing plugs and setting valves. But both were ten times easier than changing plugs on my '98 F-150. Gerald J. |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 19 Dec 2010 at 4:11pm
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When I was in High School, I worked what was called Co Op. I went to school in the AM and worked at an automotive machine shop from 1 to 5. (last I knew he's still in business) I ground a lot of valves there. The owner had me glass bead them first and then face them. Not one time did we ever keep track of where they were in the heads they came out of. Same goes for push rods and rocker arms if they were re useable. Many times we would re arch rockers so it definitely didn't matter. The only thing you want to keep in place are the lifters and if there are valve rotators they go on the exhausts. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 19 Dec 2010 at 6:51pm
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Lifters yes. The rest if its getting a valve job, no. Tipping and facing the valves along with new guides and seats won't matter with position. Valve spring poundage should be checked via the mfrs specs, and shimmed accordingly to meet those seat poundage specs. Milling the head flat is a good move also... Steve@B&B |