Two recent threads have been about mounting snow plows on B tractors, and I had promised to get some pictures of my recently rebuilt setup.  The fellow I bought this plow from said that he thought it was made by Allis-Chalmers, but I rather doubt it.  The mounts look a lot like pictures from Meyer catalogs and the drawings on http://www.worldpath.net/~thompson/acb/plow%20frame/FrontLift.htm - Rod Thompson's website , but the plow trip spring setup doesn't look like a Meyer, so maybe it is someone else's product.  At any rate, I'm pretty sure it was a factory built unit. You'll have to excuse the tractor, one of its' previous owners thought that it would look better in gray... 

When I got the plow, most of the actual mounts were in poor condition.  It had obviously seen a lot of use and abuse in upstate New York where it came from.  I ended up building new bars to mount along the engine block, a new "yoke" that mounts below the grill, and I made one new angle to go between the "yoke" and the drawbar.

I changed the engine side bars some from the original design.  It was more like what Rod Thompson shows on his site, but I was concerned that it was not rigid enough to protect the grill if the yoke was inadvertently run up on a rock or a stump.  Rather than have the side bars merely perched on top of the front engine mount, I welded tabs to the side bars with holes that allow them to be bolted to the engine mount using the same holes that are used for the front of the side weights.

A front view of the "Yoke".  I'm not really sure what the original yoke looked like, or how it was mounted.  The original had been badly hacked up, and was bent to the point that it would barely work.  Hopefully my replacement will do the job. I really need to get some real pins to mount the plow, the bolts with cotter pins are left over from the previous owner:

Here's a view from the rear, I left the rockshaft cylinder in place and plugged its' hose with a plastic Caplug:

Lift height is not great at 12", but it could be a lot worse.  Unfortunately, it does get worse when the blade is angled (~9").

Chuck:  I believe the vertical members are 2 X 2 X 5/16, and the horizontal member is 3 X 3 X 1/2 angle.  The mounting tabs and the diagonal brace are 1/2 x 2 flat bar. 

John:  I agree that it's a long span, but the Meyer blades used something very similar (of course their span looks to have been a little more than a foot shorter).  Here's a picture that forum member "AC WD45" posted a couple of days ago:

Regarding the spring trip function, my plow does have a spring trip, but instead of being a pair of extension springs, it is a compression spring that is enclosed in the tube at the center of the blade.

Your point about using a bolt to keep one side of the blade from sagging is well taken.  Anything to improve the transport clearance will be helpful!

Thanks!

Charlie:  I've thought of that, and I may yet try it.  Right now I really need to change the transmission oil to something thinner so the hydraulic pump will work a little faster! Thanks for the compliment, BTW!

Russ:  There is still a fair amount of welding!  Especially in the yoke and the cylinder mounting frame.