I created a new folder in my browser (Internet Explorer) Favorites menu called "Forum Posts" and when I see a post that I think I may need someday, I add the link to the post to the Favorites/Forum Posts. Works for me.

In a later post it was confirmed that the 1/8" - that we hit on by guess - was the right amount to assure that the clutch worked properly.

Excellent pictures and directions above.  If you can obtain new parts balls, springs, and divit holders - for lack of a better name - it would help. 

You may not need all that but we put it in so we would not have to go back. 

Let us know how it goes.

Good Luck!

Bill Long

Your previous experience is pretty darn good and was very helpful to me when I had to remove and redo the 1st clutch that I rebuilt and it slipped after I installed it. Perhaps someone in your shop obtained the 1/8" by measuring the gap when a slipping rebuilt clutch was fully compressd? The 9 compression springs on the clutch pack appear to loose their power quickly when extended.

I now determine how much to remove from the ears by compressing the assembled clutch together then measuring the gap (an 1/8" gap is pretty common). I then subtract 0.025 from the gap to reach the amount I need to remove from the ears. As shown in the one that I rebuilt, I removed 0.100" from the ears to get the 0.025 gap when fully compressed. I could have removed 1/8" (0.125) from the ears and the clutch would work fine; however, I felt that by doing so the friction material would be rubbing the pressure plates a little (and heating them up) when I pulled the lever back. I also think that a little gap results in less "grabbiness" when engaging the clutch.

Each one I rebuilt thus far required a different amount to remove to obtain the 0.025 gap (due to thickness variations of the linings and the pressure plates, and the length of the 9 compresssion springs?); but I believe that removing the 1/8" from the ears would work just fine as an alternative to determining how much to remove to obtain a 0.025" gap.

Thanks for posting.  That's another thing on my too do list is rebuild the hand clutch on my CA.  Not slipping bad, but enough when pulling heavy loads.  By the way how much new snow up your way?  We got enough here in central Minnesota to keep the kids happy!

Shoveled 12" of snow off my trailer today (am taking a CA in for sandblasting on Monday). Happy to have a D17SIV to run my snowblower (works much better than the D14 from last winter).

RSponenberg.

Yes, you can eliminate the clutch by bolting it together, or replace the split pinion shaft. Do not know for sure if a C pinion shaft and Lambert clutch are exchangeable, but the left side CA pinion shaft will do the trick. I really don't like to see folks bolt their clutches (or eliminate them by installing a straight pinion shaft) as it is the clutch that makes the CA unique from the C/B tractors and much more versatile. I have found that a properly rebuilt hand clutch does not slip. Think about it, these clutches have been running decent for 40-50 years reliably and maybe it is time to restore them to what they were back then. Perhaps the person (honest and well meaning, I'm sure) who rebuiilt yours did not follow the same process as I do (and I learned the hard way after installing one that I rebuilt and it slipped after I installed it). Seeing as how your clutch was recently rebuilt, perhaps you only have to remove it and adjust the gap by removing metal from the ears to eliminate the slippage. Having "been there, done that", I now know that the gap on the compressed clutch is extrememly important. However, it is your tractor and if you don't need the "live power" go ahead and bolt it together or install a solid pinion shaft. Just remember that the process is not readily "reversable" and sometime there may be others (maybe a family member?) later on who do want a working hand clutch in your CA. 

 

 

 

This is in the Knowledge Base section.