D10 water mist spraying out of cyl 2 spark plug ho
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=212321
Printed Date: 24 Sep 2026 at 5:16pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: D10 water mist spraying out of cyl 2 spark plug ho
Posted By: Albertfitch
Subject: D10 water mist spraying out of cyl 2 spark plug ho
Date Posted: 23 Sep 2026 at 12:13pm
| All of you were wonderful and so helpful 8 years ago , then again in 2025, in keeping my lovely old Allis out and working. Please tell me your thoughts again; Thanks Albert Last year it overheated ; As you suggested I had the head resurfaced, put in a new gasket and then added a little copper sealant to coolant when it might have been leaking a bit later ..Perfect ran cool and happy until winter put away. In May She fired up and ran perfectly until September. Then on a start up she would only crank and a few sputters of white and black smoke. I checked the oil...milky, I check the plugs and some water came out of # 2 and 3 and 4 seemed a bit wet, Drained the oil and 2 qts of clear water came out first. Pulled the head and traces of rust on a couple of the piston heads. polished the block and head surfaces , installed a new gasket, torqued it 85 in sequence. Fresh oil and filter . With plugs out # 2 is spitting out a watery mist. The others are dry. Please Help again I have so many trees snapped off half way or with root balls facing up , big limbs on the ground. Ive been cutting all summer and need my best girl helping. Thanks to all of you again and akain ; Albert |
Replies:
Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 23 Sep 2026 at 1:40pm
|
My first thought would be a cracked sleeve. Make and adapter to hook an air hose to a spark plug and rotate the crank until the valves are closed and the piston it at bottom on the #2 cylinder and listen to where the air is going. ------------- If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere. Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
Posted By: Albertfitch
Date Posted: 23 Sep 2026 at 6:48pm
| Hi PaulB I have a feeling it was you and a couple of other saints in the Forum that rescued me a number oy years back. Thank you now for such a quick reply and getting me off to research what's involved and the parts . Thanks again I'll check back , if you don't mind, and let you know my progress; Albert |
Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 23 Sep 2026 at 7:13pm
|
If it turns into something major, I might have some parts you could use, or pull the engine and bring it to me. ------------- If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere. Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 23 Sep 2026 at 8:08pm
|
I've had better results injecting compressed air into the cylinder when the piston is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke; at Bottom Dead Center either the exhaust valve is already opening at the tail end of the power stroke, or the intake is still hanging open at the beginning of the compression stroke. Be sure to disable the ignition system when conducting this test because if the piston is not exactly at TDC it will cause the engine to rotate and could result in an unexpected startup
 |
Posted By: Albertfitch
Date Posted: 24 Sep 2026 at 9:05am
| Thanks PaulB and Les for all your advice I'll have a chance to try the compressed air int hole today and learn more.And PaulB I'm a Marylander as well... near the Bay but the Allis is 540 miles North where I try to keep up the old Family camp grounds. I'm here hoping if it is serious one of will tell me there's a way to drop the oil pan and crankshaft and the number two piston and punch it up or down and out and then replace the sleeve. I was up half the night watch videos and they all have the engine out completely. All the best Albert |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 24 Sep 2026 at 1:41pm
| A little easier for some things maybe with engine out but not that necessary. Drop pan,pull head,unbolt rod and push out. Sleeve will likely be stuck but a hard block of wood and big hammer will knock it loose. Cleaning the block bore really good is the time consumer. You really need to know where the leak is before trying to fix it. That's why you drop pan and pressurize system and look for leak. If it's running down the sleeve from the block it probably is an oring but you could have a cracked lower web bore and there is no economical fix. You replace. You don't need to mess with crankshaft at all. |
Posted By: Tracy Martin TN
Date Posted: 24 Sep 2026 at 1:50pm
|
I would do a compression check on it before head comes off. Sounds like it has blown head gasket between 2 and 3. There is a water port near them. JMHO, Tracy ------------- No greater gift than healthy grandkids! |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 24 Sep 2026 at 4:44pm
|
you could pull the head off and take a look at the gasket and the sleeve... you could pull the oil pan and see if the antifreeze is running down between the liner and block thru the o-ring.... But pulling the sleeve and liner is going to get complicated and more involved than you think by the time you clean every thing, wire brush, get new parts, etc... and traveling 500 miles back and forth a few times will get old.... Consider borrowing a trailer and bring it home ... then if you do need an overhaul, pull the engine out and do it the easy way.. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |