7060 fuel issues
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=211685
Printed Date: 18 Sep 2026 at 6:58am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: 7060 fuel issues
Posted By: timmiso
Subject: 7060 fuel issues
Date Posted: 14 Jul 2026 at 10:53am
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7060 black belly. Was using to rake hay, shut it off for a few minutes and wouldn’t restart. Couple hours later I was able to get it started and back home - seemed to be getting air in the system, well then the primer pump was leaking - so guys at Spencer diesel said instead of replacing it to put electric one on from Agco- did that, worked for a week. Yesterday I went to start it and it wouldn’t fire - smoke but not enough to get it going - gave a small shot of ether and it’s off and running. Pulled it up by the shop and rechecked my connections- this morning same deal- crank with smoke, give it a sniff of ether and it’s off and running great. It’s 80 out. Do I have a touch of air in it yet, or pump on the way out? Once running it runs great. Numerous posts mention the return line being plugged could cause issues - is this just the line on top of the injectors? Changed filter when I did the electric pump.
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Replies:
Posted By: Alvin M
Date Posted: 14 Jul 2026 at 1:11pm
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I use a check valve in the fuel line before the electric fuel pump I get them from Spencer
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Posted By: timmiso
Date Posted: 14 Jul 2026 at 1:27pm
Where did you locate your pump? I didn’t have any instructions so I basically replaced the primer pump - so it’s drawing from the filter to the injection pump - wondering if I should mount it by the tank and push as opposed to sucking more.
I did pull the return line off - it is clear.
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Posted By: 8070nc
Date Posted: 14 Jul 2026 at 2:04pm
I dont know if this is your problem. Ive got a 8070 that was doing that. I tried everything i could think of. Finally replaced the return line to the tank and it fixed it. Cant explain why
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1984 80780
1957 D14
DES 300 with 25000 engine
616 tractor
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Posted By: Alvin M
Date Posted: 14 Jul 2026 at 2:17pm
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That is to high I mount them down near the tank back of the batts on the strap I think it for lower shield You can call me 717-354-4736 I put on 12
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 14 Jul 2026 at 5:22pm
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It has run for 40 years without an electric pump, so I wouldn't have approached it that way. Start by determining if you have a good free-flow supply of fuel coming out of the tank !! Disconnect the fuel supply hose at the filter filter base (or the electric pump in your case) and lay it down below the fuel tank bottom and see if it GUSHES out fuel, which it should !! You might have a plugged outlet at the tank bottom. This is where to begin the diagnosis.
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Posted By: AveryD12
Date Posted: 14 Jul 2026 at 5:47pm
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I think Doc has a great point. I have had similar issues on 2 different tractors (not AC) and the end result was a plugged strainer inside the fuel tank on both tractors. I also had issue with the fuel line rubbing the block and the vibration caused a small hole in the line allowing air to get in the fuel.
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 14 Jul 2026 at 6:29pm
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I had one 7045 (35 years ago) that had a steel fuel line rubbing against the engine block and rubbed a hole in it. Sucked air. Drained back to the tank when shut off. Couldn't see it until the line was removed and inspected. It was the fuel supply line right at the injection pump inlet and the rub was about 6 inches rearward right where the line laid against the engine block.
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Posted By: victoryallis
Date Posted: 15 Jul 2026 at 5:12am
Replace the rubber fuel lines BTDT on a 7080 and 7060 they have micro cracks and are letting air in.
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8030, 7060, six 6080’s grandpa’s D17, 8760, 8100, and 8970 Deere.
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Posted By: DanielW
Date Posted: 15 Jul 2026 at 7:55am
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I don't want to hijack this thread, but on the same note: Why did Allis start putting electric pumps on these tractors after a certain serial number? They must have known of some issue. My 7045 has an electric pump a previous owner has very crudely cobbled in right under the battery trays. I was going to hook it up a little more cleanly/properly, but I'm wondering if I should just take it out to convert it back to stock (mine was before the serial # break when Allis started adding the electric pumps).
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 15 Jul 2026 at 9:19am
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Pretty sure the electric pump was first used when they added a second (water separator) filter. They must have felt the injection pump needed some help when there were two filters instead of one.
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Posted By: timmiso
Date Posted: 15 Jul 2026 at 7:34pm
So I spent the day working on it. Good flow from the tank. Moved electric pump down by tanks right above the belly pan, check valve installed. Pump is rated for 3-5 psi, I have good flow through the filter and to the injection pump. Pump return line is clear. Tractor is VERY hard to start, once started it will run good, if I shut it off and then pull the shutoff back out it will fire right back off, but if I let engine fully stop it’s a pain to restart again- even 1-2 seconds later. At this point I’m thinking injection pump- any other suggestions? Tractor is cranking normal speed.
Spent another hour on it - cleaned check valve (nothing there) pulled timing window - looked clean - started better these last couple time - more like normal- so I’ll see how it does when cooled off tomorrow.
Tractor has 7800 hrs on it- I’ve owned it for 5 years (maybe 200 hrs on it in that time) but before that I know nothing.
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 15 Jul 2026 at 7:47pm
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I had an N-5 combine one time that ran fine, got shut off for lunch and would not restart. The delivery valve retaining nut had loosened up. Never had another pump do that. How many hrs on your pump?? 5,000 ??
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Posted By: timmiso
Date Posted: 15 Jul 2026 at 8:02pm
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Tractor has 7800, no known history before the last 2-300 hrs I’ve put on it.
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Posted By: 8070nc
Date Posted: 15 Jul 2026 at 8:23pm
Fried of mine has a 220 that would not start. Turned uot that the mechanism in the pump that turns fuel on or off is spring loaded in the direction that turns fuel on. When you push the fuel knob in to shut off the tractir it is positive action but when you pull it out to start it a spring pulls it on. It had gotten stiff and wouldnt go to run. We sprayedit with penetrating oil and worked it by hand untill it flipped back like it is supposed to. Tractor fired right up. I dont know if a 7060 is like that or not
May or may nit help
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1984 80780
1957 D14
DES 300 with 25000 engine
616 tractor
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Posted By: Michael V (NM)
Date Posted: 15 Jul 2026 at 10:15pm
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my 220 is this way,, but I know the engine is really tired,,, takes couple shots ether when cold,, but when it gets warmed up pretty good,, sometimes I wonder if I have enough battery and ether,,, so,, I'm thinkin the rotor and head are worn out,, so a new injection pump, at least new rotor and head are gonna be what it takes to fix it,, along with a sleeve and piston kit and valve job
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Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 16 Jul 2026 at 8:30am
Sounds like the metering valve is sticking, try running a good fuel cleaner through it, then gently rev it up and slow it down repeatedly, to work it back and forth. You may need to take top cover off pump to clean it up better if that doesn't work. All this is just buying time until you can pull it off and get it properly rebuilt. I was thinking the Delivery valve stop screw backed out like Dr mentioned, but shutting it off and pulling the shut off knob out right away while the metering valve is still moving sort of smoothly, and it'll start tells me that's the problem. I have this hot shots diesel flush that can help clean gummy stuff like this up, you take off the filter, and fill it with this stuff. Maybe you can find it locally, as I don't ship that stuff lol!
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Posted By: Ray54
Date Posted: 16 Jul 2026 at 2:23pm
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I have been around 2 D2900 engines on Gleaner combines that started fine the first time of the day. With all the different labels AC used I think that is also called a 301 engine. But if you shut it off you were done.
On mine I rode 2 1/2 gal plastic jug of water to wash the chaff off the pump ever morning. As with age it seeped fuel in enough places always covered in chaff at the end of the day. Several years earlier I had JD 95 on fire that started on dirty pump like that.
Anyway I needed the engine off for something. After repairing what ever , I had a lot of the day left. It did not start. A hot day so water jug was luke warm. I got the idea maybe cooling the pump would make it start, and it worked. Yes I understand the possibility of damaging the pump by using cold water on a hot pump. So after the season was done had the pump rebuilt. Started any time.
My assumption is not all parts expand or contract at the same rate inside the pump. As I had AC HD 5 crawler with Detroit Diesel engine. Started fine the first 1/2 hour, then run very poorly. I was seeding with it so I needed it bad, and kept on running it. After an hour it would get better until pulling normally. All experts told me fuel filtering issue. No the pumps never did that. Well with new lines filters and injectors, it kept doing the same. So I changed the pump, end of the trouble. Sad part is the pump is out in the open 2 or 3 bolts 2 lines. A 1/2 hour at most. And it was cheap as I recall $50 buck or so. For those that have never run a DD the fuel system nothing like other engines. Just a very small gear pump.
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