getting black thin liquid leaking from exhaust man
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=209588
Printed Date: 07 Jan 2026 at 12:14pm
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Topic: getting black thin liquid leaking from exhaust man
Posted By: Kevin210
Subject: getting black thin liquid leaking from exhaust man
Date Posted: 03 Jan 2026 at 8:10pm
Started the 220 for first time after overhaul
and restoration and have black fluid leaking
from the exhaust manifold on front section and
middle section joint.
I put a front dump exhaust on it fyi due to running
a different turbo.
I'm certain it's not oil because it's to thin and the
oil shouldn't be black at first start up.
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Replies:
Posted By: RedHeeler79
Date Posted: 03 Jan 2026 at 9:03pm
Did you start it and let it idle for quite a while? Or has it been warmed up properly and had a load put on it to facilitate ring seating? My guess is you’re seeing it slobber out the exhaust manifold joints because the rings haven’t seated yet. If you’re not seeing any other concerns with the newly overhauled engine, then I would suggest putting it through the paces somehow and get those rings seated, build some heat. See if it dries up…. If you went all through the fuel system as part of the overhaul, then it “should” be all good there, but, if it smokes more than you think it should or makes a sound you’re not sure of (fuel knock)…. You can use a non-contact (infrared) temp gun to check each exhaust port at the manifold and see if any of them are markedly different than the others, indicating an issue with that particular cylinder…. If any injector is overfueling, it will be much hotter than the other manifold ports, and could result in fuel residue leaking from manifold joints…. Probably just needs broken-in though…
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Posted By: Kevin210
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2026 at 8:55am
The as rings probably aren't seated yet and didn't
run it very long due to custom made fuel lines leaking
at start up so I shut it off and have had a headache with
fuel leaks from the shop that did them,(grrrrr),but the
leaks have been fixed,just concerned about that slobber.
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Posted By: AC7060IL
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2026 at 12:30pm
Black thin liquid might be a combination of diesel carbon soot & WATER??Either your fuel system has had water introduced into it by bad fuel or maybe your engine’s coolant is being transferred into it’s combustion areas(intake/cylinder sleeves, head gasket, exhaust, etc..)??? Investigate it. First try draining its fuel tank by slowly loosening tanks fuel line threads & catch its content to know if it’s contaminated or not? If not contaminated then move your attention toward engine’s combustion areas.
Check engine oil dipstick & see it oil level has risen or chalky color. If either, then very likely a coolant leaking into crankcase. Investigate it by draining oil, removing oil pan, place clean cardboard under open crankcase, pressurize coolant system, & observing for any drips onto cardboard & figure out where it’s escaping & repair.
If oil checks ok & it may,,, cause cylinder must be getting coolant from head gasket, valve guides, & a crack somewhere in head &/or sleeve??
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Posted By: Kevin210
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2026 at 8:30pm
What would be a good break in procedure
for this motor,fresh overhaul,fuel turned
up and no equipment to hook it to.
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Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2026 at 8:49pm
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400 bushels of corn on a wagon. Road gear @ full throttle. 20 miles is a good start. Dress warm.
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Posted By: RedHeeler79
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2026 at 9:11pm
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If there’s any equipment dealers or repair shops near you with a PTO dyno, maybe that would be the way to go. You need to get a load on that engine, get some boost and cylinder temperature, and vary the throttle input for the first few times. When I put a truck engine together, and start it for the first time, as soon as it has oil pressure for a few seconds… I will give it several abrupt full throttle runs up to top rpm limit, only for a couple seconds each time. Then let it warm up for a bit at a high idle (1000 rpm or so), before taking it out and driving it like I stole it. (If something is going to break, I would rather it happen right away, rather than after the customer gets it back) If I can hook it to a loaded trailer, even better, but I won’t flog it as hard if it’s got a load behind it - just let the load work the engine the way it was designed to work. Has been successful for me on many overhauls through the years. This would be hard to do with your tractor obviously, but you kinda get the point. Heavy duty diesel engines need to perform as they are designed. I have seen some of them that were babied too long at first without being worked hard, and they would tend to use oil for quite a few hours/miles before drying up. The ones that were loaded and broken in right out of the gate seemed to have better luck with oil consumption and such. Manufacturers run their engines under load on a dyno typically before they are shipped out. Don’t be afraid to run it the way it was intended. Perhaps you have a farmer buddy that would let you use his land and/or plow, disc, etc to break her in…. Best of luck on your project. By the way, what are you planning on using the 220 for?
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Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2026 at 9:39pm
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My 220 has done that. Heard it called "wet stacking". Only at low rpm especially idle. It's probably around 1500 hrs since M&W OH but it did it a long time. Havent noticed it the last few yrs but who's looking?
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Posted By: Kevin210
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2026 at 9:39pm
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daughter is going to pull it in speed limit classes.
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